SickSilverNLow

iTrader: (5)

I have friends locally that run the FP green's on their evos and various FP turbos for their DSM's. They put tons of miles on the car as a DD. They drive their cars hard day after day and no problems. This is why im in the process of getting one of their turbos for my winter build. FP FTW.

tony gibson

iTrader: (1)

Is there some sort of oil feed line mod I need to know about before running the Red?

sparky

iTrader: (1)

Forced Performance sells an upgrade, stainless braided hose complete with fittings. Get it when you order your new Red.

9sec9

iTrader: (2)

here's my take on the shaft rpm and boost levels. I've monitored shaft speed by using the Garrett unit on all 3 of my stock size turbos. By monitoring that, and logging the boost, I know what the speed vs boost levels are, but only for my setup. The type of O2 housing, downpipe, turbine housing porting (or not) all will play a role in how much boost is being made efficiently vs the shaft speeds. I've previously posted boost levels we used on the dyno and even boost levels we've run at the track. Those settings would not be good for anyone else, simply because they may not have modified anything else to help with the efficiencies. I'm not too sure, for those reasons, that Robert would or could give a good number for the general modder. That's just my 2 cents.

crcain

Thanks for the advice there. Was worth a shot to see if there might be a magic number.

9sec9

iTrader: (2)

You're welcome. Another issue is always boost leaks. The turbo spins harder to maintain the boost that we're 'dialing' in. Usually, we dial up the boost if we 'think' the power is down and want to get it back. If you turn the boost knob UP to get back to the 'expected' boost level, it's possible that you're simply over spinning the shaft and the efficiencies become worse and the 'heated' boost does us very little good. Pre-loading the actuator too much can cause the higher rpms to drop boost through inefficiencies and the uninformed tuner may simply try turning it up some more, to make up for the 'drop'. For me, I set the preload to a good reasonable setting and then monitor that rate of shaft speed, as well as if the shaft speed continues to ramp up, or if it levels off and at what rpm the leveling begins. I can't say enough for being able to monitor the shaft speed and boost levels. Sorry for giving more than 2 cents worth, but there is a point of no return, which can lead to 'tuner' failures, not the fault of the turbo.

ForcedPerformance

iTrader: (6)

In response to the oil feed line questions I have these two links

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...=oil+feed+line

and

http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...Lancer-TurboHW

The factory airbox and an unidentified boost leak are the 2 main casues of overspeeding the turbo and subsequent failure. THe factory airbox just cannot let the turbo inhale, it will overspped trying to suck air thru this straw. The boost leak failure mode is more obvious, if you are trying to get lots of boost, and supply the leak air on top of that, then you are going to end up with way too much RPM. Running at 160kpm is tolerable and not a problem, but hitting 180+krpm repeatedly as you draw agaisnt the stock airbox or feed a boost leak will kill a turbo.

Doing a static boost check doesnt always show a leaking BOV. The BOV can pass a static leak test and still leak lots of air under use. Under actual operatopn there is vaccuum, sometimes several psi of vacuum pulling the BOV open in a recirculating BOV config. This pulling force works with the boost pressures pushing forced from the UICP to crack the valve open. It can do this in a very repeatable manner and thusly go unnoticed and simply "tuned around" without a turbo tach you may never even know it is occuring.

cossie1

That would be my turbo that you have mentioned there.

Just to clear up a couple of points from your post there.

1) It was purchased from a UK supplier of all types of Evo Parts and was brand new still in the FP box (I have pics of the turbo and serial number from when it was still new if that helps), It was not purchased from just some guy in a bar.

2) The turbo ran fine for 2299 miles, from the point of fitting to the point of explosion.

3) The turbo had not hit full boost when it exploded, it was spooling up in 3rd gear.

4) The turbo failiure ended up killing my fully forged 2.0 engine in the process of killing itself.

5) Ontop of loosing my engine, and turbo, I also lost my Uprated intercooler and my Oil Cooler.

As per my email (dated 11/12/08 which I have not received a reply to as yet) listing the full spec of my car and the details of what happened at the time the turbo failed, I can confirm there were no restrictions, or boost leaks at all.

Could I also point out, that I know of another 3 or 4 FP Greens now that have failed in the same / similar way (snapped shafts).

And several more that have failed due to other reasons.

I would like to point out, not every one of those have been supplied by FP direct, as some of them did come from your UK distributer (turbo dynamics), however they tell us that they purchase the turbo's from FP direct to distrubute in the UK, so therefore they are the same units.

funnyclub

iTrader: (4)

I too am very worried that my green will explode and take my built 2ltr engine out with it. I have had my fp green on my car about 10k miles it was bought through a uk trader which was supplied the unit from turbo dynamics. There lately my uprated actuator failed and the turbo was boosting to 2.3bar luckily I noticed this.
I managed to get a new actuator under warrantee but only because my mechanic has known the guys at turbo dynamics for years through getting stuff for rally cars.

So I think its an absalute disgrace that this guy is down and a turbo now his engine was also wrecked and he isnt even getting the turbo replaced.
What is the point of a warrentee and also guys we over in the uk and Ireland have to pay more for an fp green than you guys.

broddey

iTrader: (5)

I'm very interested to know how a self destructing turbo can destroy an engine in the process? Logically compressor blades would get stuck in the intercooler. Did the oil lines snap and cause a loss of oil pressure?

leecavturbo

the fragments pass the cooler simple

cossie1

The particles of the compressor wheel passed through the intercooler, and entered the intake manifold.

Then passed through into the head, and into the bores.

Some of the fragments dug into the tops of the pistons, whilst others went down the sides of the pistons and scratched the bores.

The head was full of debris, and as a resalt of that, all the valves suffered minor pitting, and a valve seat was damaged.

Also as the shaft snapped, I lost oil pressure and I assume debirs from the bearings went into the oil return pipe, and into the sump.

This contaminated the oil, and therefore I also suffered bearing damage to the bigend and main bearings.

I also have pictures of the insides of my engine when it was stripped down.

max2evoix

iTrader: (8)

werd

FastAzzEvo

iTrader: (11)

bottom line here guys is any turbo can fail at any point. You have to realize how fast turbos are spinning..

You have to take precautions..

1. buy from a company that has bench tested the turbo
2. check for boost leaks
3. proper installation (oil/water)
4. visual inspection (spinning turbo, checking for shaft play)

etc.

Jim in Tucson

iTrader: (3)

It sounds like the best possible insurance would be the turbo tach.

9sec9, do you have any pics of this item? Or point us to a link?

Thanks,
Jim