2.3L Build?
#1
2.3L Build?
Hey guys...I am planing on building my block from a 2.0 to a 2.3 and wanted to know whats the difference in some of these 2.3L builds...I was looking to buy the AMS 2.3L kit but then saw a couple other kits like the Eagle 2.3 kit thats half the price of AMS and Gruppe-S vendor had a nice deal as well(Gruppe-S 2.3 Forged Crankshaft, Helix Forged Connecting Rods, Wiseco 85.5 Custom Spec Pistons, ACL Coated Race Bearings for $1799 Shipped) I'm not looking for a track car or anything just a nice ride to push around and enjoy the speed. I have yet to decide on whether a GT35R or GT30R for DD...I want something reliable but don't want to spend huge load on this...I just wanted to know what you guys thought about the other set ups?
#2
really good torque and hp go with the 30. more top end and such hta35.
on the stroker, I would go with a piston that is 9.0:1 ratio for better torque arround town. I built my own kit using eagle rods and crank, arias pistons, and arp main and head studs, ams race balance shaft. I LOVE my stroker, But wish I did the HTA35 instead of the 30 because I want more.
Just if you do the 35, keep in mind the additional cost of needed upgrades over the 30
on the stroker, I would go with a piston that is 9.0:1 ratio for better torque arround town. I built my own kit using eagle rods and crank, arias pistons, and arp main and head studs, ams race balance shaft. I LOVE my stroker, But wish I did the HTA35 instead of the 30 because I want more.
Just if you do the 35, keep in mind the additional cost of needed upgrades over the 30
#3
It depends on how much money you want to spend. If you ask me, the forged crankshaft is kind of a waste of money, since almost nobody breaks the factory 4G64 stroker crankshaft (cast not forged). There alot of different options out there, but the geometry is usually exactly the same. There exists a "long rod" stroker kit where the wrist pin has been placed higher on the piston to allow for a longer connecting rod to be used. The longer rod creates a better rod/stroke ratio which allows for a slightly higher redline. If you buy the rods, pistons, rings, and bearings, you can find the crank easily in any junkyard (have a machine shop look it over) and do the build yourself for very cheap. Good luck.
BTW, there is a sticky in the engine/drivetrain forum that outlines how to do the 2.3 build yourself.
BTW, there is a sticky in the engine/drivetrain forum that outlines how to do the 2.3 build yourself.
Last edited by sonicnofadz; Dec 8, 2008 at 03:43 PM.
#6
i dd a 2.3 with a 35r which is about to be upgraded to an hta 86 and i have put more than 20k miles on the set-up with no problems. don't be afraid to go big the first time. you'll get used to the lag and be glad you got the extra hp.
#7
wow you DD a 2.3 with a 35r. thats sick. thats what i want to do but i want something reliable. how reliable is your car. i was iffy about doing an FP red with meth and cosworth 280 cams for my DD.
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#10
I have a 2.3 liter HTA 35r and I think it's reliable. Don't officially Daily drive it though. BUT when I don't have it taken apart (doing upgrades) I drive it very often!!!
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