Just adjusted clutch.. and question
Dec 16, 2008, 08:48 PM
#1
Just adjusted clutch.. and question
I posted this in "how to: clutch adjustment" section, but due to the last post before mine being in early November I thought it would be best to bring the same post here for some helpful results. So if a Mod. could please delete the other post so there wouldn't be a double post. So here's what was wrote, and my question is in there as well.
ok, well I just adjusted mine because it was engaging all the way at the top of the throw causing so major grinding issues in first gear. The clutch I have on it now is an Exedy Stg. II Cerametallic installed by AMS, so no problems there. I've only put 15k on the clutch and have taken it to the track once, but I put in 17 passes!!! I noticed about a month or two after going to the track is was grinding a bit toward the top of the throw, but was assured the nothing was wrong it was just because of the cerametallic clutch making the noise. So anyways fast forward 2 more months, I noticed the clutch slipping in 3rd and 4th gear under boost.. So I find it hard to believe that the stock clutch lasted 50k miles and the aftermarket lasted around 15k with just one trip to the strip and leasurely driving any other time. So as I stated in the beginning I just got finished with adjusting the clutch pedal on the car. Now after quite a bit of swearing and twisting my body into a pretzel to try to get comfortable as possible down there, I got the lock nut loose and put it nearly all the way back to the flat part of the push rod (it was close to the middle before adjusting). Now here comes the kicker, as the write up says to try to twist the coupler by hand so it meets with the lock nut and the tighten the nut back up to the coupler.. well I don't know about if you guys have something special on your cars but there's a cotter pin with a pin holding the coupler in place so I pulled the cotter pin out and popped the pin out that was running through the clutch pedal arm and it still wouldn't turn so I put the pin and everything back in, and grab the shaft and it turns freely.. well freely enough with a little push on the clutch pedal so I turn the shaft till the coupler gets nearly to the lock nut and back it away just a bit and I tightened down the lock nut leaving about 3-4mm's of adjustment left.
Now after doing this much clutch pedal itself is VERY low it may travel 2-3 inches before it bottoms out and just feels weird. The car starts and shifts fine, it doesn't grind any more taking off from first gear at all. We're getting hammered with snow right now in chicago so I couldn't take it on the expressway to see if it was slipping in the higher gears still, or if I'll get out because of such a short throw now. It just freaks me out a little that the clutch pedal is so low to the floor board, compared to where it was before.
For you guys who've adjusted for sooner engagement is this how your cars are too? or is there something wrong?
Thanks in advance,
Nate
ok, well I just adjusted mine because it was engaging all the way at the top of the throw causing so major grinding issues in first gear. The clutch I have on it now is an Exedy Stg. II Cerametallic installed by AMS, so no problems there. I've only put 15k on the clutch and have taken it to the track once, but I put in 17 passes!!! I noticed about a month or two after going to the track is was grinding a bit toward the top of the throw, but was assured the nothing was wrong it was just because of the cerametallic clutch making the noise. So anyways fast forward 2 more months, I noticed the clutch slipping in 3rd and 4th gear under boost.. So I find it hard to believe that the stock clutch lasted 50k miles and the aftermarket lasted around 15k with just one trip to the strip and leasurely driving any other time. So as I stated in the beginning I just got finished with adjusting the clutch pedal on the car. Now after quite a bit of swearing and twisting my body into a pretzel to try to get comfortable as possible down there, I got the lock nut loose and put it nearly all the way back to the flat part of the push rod (it was close to the middle before adjusting). Now here comes the kicker, as the write up says to try to twist the coupler by hand so it meets with the lock nut and the tighten the nut back up to the coupler.. well I don't know about if you guys have something special on your cars but there's a cotter pin with a pin holding the coupler in place so I pulled the cotter pin out and popped the pin out that was running through the clutch pedal arm and it still wouldn't turn so I put the pin and everything back in, and grab the shaft and it turns freely.. well freely enough with a little push on the clutch pedal so I turn the shaft till the coupler gets nearly to the lock nut and back it away just a bit and I tightened down the lock nut leaving about 3-4mm's of adjustment left.
Now after doing this much clutch pedal itself is VERY low it may travel 2-3 inches before it bottoms out and just feels weird. The car starts and shifts fine, it doesn't grind any more taking off from first gear at all. We're getting hammered with snow right now in chicago so I couldn't take it on the expressway to see if it was slipping in the higher gears still, or if I'll get out because of such a short throw now. It just freaks me out a little that the clutch pedal is so low to the floor board, compared to where it was before.
For you guys who've adjusted for sooner engagement is this how your cars are too? or is there something wrong?
Thanks in advance,
Nate
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