My 4G64 block after machine work *PICS*
Dec 23, 2008, 05:25 PM
#33
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Yep 4G64 blocks that bolt direction into the Evo 7-8-9's can be found in the following:
Mitsu Eclipse 2000 - 2005
Mitsu Galant 1999 - 2003
Mitsu Montero 2000 - 2003 (not sure on the years)
Chrysler Sebring 2001 - 2005
Dodge Stratus 2001- 2005
Hyundai Sonata 1999-2001 (not sure on the years)
However it should be noted that some of the non-mitsu blocks have some small differences (like the oil dipstick tube being located at the front of the block).
Mitsu Eclipse 2000 - 2005
Mitsu Galant 1999 - 2003
Mitsu Montero 2000 - 2003 (not sure on the years)
Chrysler Sebring 2001 - 2005
Dodge Stratus 2001- 2005
Hyundai Sonata 1999-2001 (not sure on the years)
However it should be noted that some of the non-mitsu blocks have some small differences (like the oil dipstick tube being located at the front of the block).
Hyundai used the 4g64 in the sonata from 1999 to 2005 & the Santa Fe from 2001 to 2006
The Outlander used it as well.
I have 2 sonata 2.4 blocks ready for machining
Last edited by Mitsutech56; Dec 23, 2008 at 05:47 PM.
Dec 23, 2008, 05:45 PM
#34
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Last time I shipped a 4G64 block including building the packing box and securing it, it weighed in at 140 lbs. I think just the bare block weighs about 125 + or - 5 lbs.
Josh
Josh
Dec 23, 2008, 08:05 PM
#35
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Those prices are pretty good if you ask me, and it looks like they did great work. I paid $250 for a bore and hone with torque plate, $100 to deck, and $100 for cleaning and inspection. Of course that's in the most expensive area of Washinton... Redmond/Kirkland.
I'd say you did great.
I'd say you did great.
Dec 23, 2008, 09:08 PM
#36
Is there an advantage to running the o-ring setup instead of a MLS gasket? I haven't seen an o-ring setup in so long I just thought I'd ask. Guys in the V8 world seemed to have given up on that setup in favor of the MLS just wondering if the o-ring is the perferred setup for this engine? Machine work looks great BTW, it's nice when you can find a shop to take that kind of work on that really cares about the finished product.
Dec 23, 2008, 09:26 PM
#37
Is there an advantage to running the o-ring setup instead of a MLS gasket? I haven't seen an o-ring setup in so long I just thought I'd ask. Guys in the V8 world seemed to have given up on that setup in favor of the MLS just wondering if the o-ring is the perferred setup for this engine? Machine work looks great BTW, it's nice when you can find a shop to take that kind of work on that really cares about the finished product.
Dec 23, 2008, 09:35 PM
#38
In this case, I'm actually using a factory MLS gasket AND the o-ringed block. Like the stopper within a MLS gasket, the o-ring will provide more contact pressure on the head/block to help seal combustion pressure. The material used for the o-ring, the amount it protrudes from the deck of the block and the clamping load of the head fasteners will determine how much pressure is applied. The copper o-ring on my block protrudes about .007" above the deck. If there is too much o-ring above the deck, it will be difficult to crush and potentially cause sealing problems. In this case, it should be just right.
Should push the valves through the hood before the gasket gives!
Good stuff!
Jan 23, 2009, 12:43 PM
#41
Great build, Sean!
How high could you rev a 2.4 block reliably? It probably is all about the parts you pick and how you setup your rod/piston combination. I'd love for a block that could go to 8500rpm all day long without issue. That would be sweet.
-Jalal
How high could you rev a 2.4 block reliably? It probably is all about the parts you pick and how you setup your rod/piston combination. I'd love for a block that could go to 8500rpm all day long without issue. That would be sweet.
-Jalal
Jan 23, 2009, 02:11 PM
#44
Let me know if I'm just babling about.
-Jalal
Last edited by MJ23FE; Jan 23, 2009 at 02:14 PM.
Jan 23, 2009, 02:35 PM
#45
A longer rod would minimize the side loading and heat generated by having a 102mm stroke, correct? Regardless of the whole rod/stroke combo and r/s ratio, you still need to keep in mind where you are making power across the rev range. Which is where you would have to decide if you were going to use your turbo to dictate your power band or if you're going to use you're motor setup to dictate it. Does that make sense?
Let me know if I'm just babling about.
-Jalal
Let me know if I'm just babling about.
-Jalal
Obviously the turbo is another factor...but regardless of the turbo selection, the bottom end components are exposed to their own set of stresses that are the result of their length/weight/etc. My goal is to accurately show this data and let people determine what is a safe for daily use and racing.