Bster13

iTrader: (2)

2006 EVO IX SE. Currently bone stock w/ Innovate LC1 installed. I've been researching on the forums for 1.5 years, and now that the car is paid off, it's time to do some lapping days w/ friends. I'm getting down to the nitty gritty and need your help.

Mods that will go on the car in the Spring:
-CG Lock or harness
-Tune
-Catch can or breather to keep oil out of IC.
-Watter Wetter in Radiator.
-MBC or ECU based boost control
-Intercooler (still researching)
-Short shifter & bushings
-Vibrant MAF adapter & ebay cone filter
-Megan O2 housing (still looking for a deal on new or used. O2 dump too loud for certain tracks)
-Megan Downpipe and Megan Resonated Test Pipe
-Cobb Catback Exhaust
-HD Bilsteins
-GTWORX Springs
-Whiteline front and rear sways
-Dunlop Direzza sport z1 star spec
-Alignment
-Steel Braided Brake Lines (still looking for a deal)
-Race brake pads
-Brake duct cooling kit
-ATE Superblue brake fluid (may go to Amsoil, not sure)
-Stock injectors, fuel pump, turbo, 93 octane only, no injection.
-I have since purchased ETS 3.5in IC and LICP

Goals:
-Straightline, run w/ 2008 M3 (long shot 414hp, 295 tq, 3726 lbs.), E46 M3 (333hp, 262 tq, 3415 lbs.), 2006 BMW M Coupe (330 horsepower and 262 pound-feet, 3230 lbs.), 2008 Porsche Carerra (325hp, 273 tq 3990 lbs.) (I am confident I can handle with them w/ my mods)
-relatively quiet to keep LEOs at bay and my sanity.
-Keep it my daily driver, NOT **** off passengers too much.
-Stock fitment, no rubbing or squeaks and very little to no modifying of undertrays or other stock components... I want to look as stock as possible.

Questions:
-What additional power mods do I need to run straightline with my fellow track buddy cars listed above?
-Do I need an intercooler for hot trackdays? *kicks hornets nest* I've read where EBAY FMICs are great for a pull or two on the dyno, but I want sustained cooling. With my mods and how hard I'll have to push stock turbo to run w/ buddies, will the stock FMIC heat soak? Will EBAY FMIC heat soak less than stocker? (or just not worth the time & $ for upgrade, go straight to brand name FMIC?)
-I have not seen the Buschur Race FMIC be beaten, and it's on sale now, but is it overkill for my stock (somewhat pushed?) turbo and mods? (I realize stock turbo being pushed may generate a lot of heat vs. bigger turbo at same pwr level)
-How much does Buschur Race FMIC weight vs. stocker? Is all that weight up front worth the added cooling (and pwr?) for my situation?
-Can anyone link to a Buschur FMIC install where they show how much the stock undertray and crash bar is 'trimmed?' Trimming the stock crash bar is unnerving to me.

I apologize in advance for those that will respond with "use the search button" as I have...believe me I have for more than I'd like to admit to my employer. The Buschur sale is almost over and I need answers quickly. thx.

nils

iTrader: (56)

get a CG lock too... help u stay in your seat...

Bster13

iTrader: (2)

Oh crap, good point. I meant to put that on there or a harness. Thank you Nils....now what about the other Qs? Show me the way darnit!

chad99evo

iTrader: (24)

I'd say do an ETS 3.5", that way you can retain the crash beam for your daily driving. The intercooler on the track (roadcourse) makes quite a difference in terms of heat soak.

the ss brake lines arent really necessary, and dont make a big difference. slotted rotors i would recommend though.

an adjustbale rear swaybar can make all the diff. in the world too when it comes to understeer. i threw a rear strut bar on as well and my handling is as perfect as can be.

o-townFLA

iTrader: (4)

Take it stock...

because the best mod you can upgrade to is the driver mod...

nils

iTrader: (56)

dont get a harness unless you get a roll bar.... so just stick to the cg-lock


I'll let the power experts answer your powa' questions... overall though you should focus on brakes, cooling & suspension.... power always comes later...

n

Bster13

iTrader: (2)

Thanks o-townFLA...I forgot to add a disclaimer about that in my initial post...I appreciate the "take it stock, improve yourself" method of thinking...but that's not happening. thx,

CaliMR

iTrader: (1)

What is your budget?

Also, you ask about road course but then say you want to keep up with various M cars and a 911 in a straight line. Depending on your budget, you might want to focus on just one of these aspects of performance.

If it is your DD, then make sure you have something else you can borrow if you have an oops.

chad99evo

iTrader: (24)

what he said too, but at least change the brake fluid or you'll be screwed after a few hot laps.

Bster13

iTrader: (2)

yup yup, I used to run in the advanced group for motorcycle trackdays b4 my injury (hit a deer on the street) so I am somewhat familiar with the track environment. I realize bikes are not EVOs and there's a reason why my Father nicknamed me "the boy of a thousand questions" so no worries about me getting my learn on from a few choice instructors *cough* SmikeEvo *cough* But it's too late for me to stay stock...it's gunna happen one way or another, hehe. And yes, of course new brake fluid will be used and track pads swapped in.

Protostar1

iTrader: (4)

All of that looks good to go, you might want to check out the Nitto NT05s in place of the Z1s, BlackTrack has a review of them if you search. If you throw an intercooler kit with piping you should be close to those straightline goals, though you realistically might be there already. Mini battery and getting rid of all the **** in your trunk when you hit the track will help in straight line pickup.

I just purchased an ETS Widetank 4" IC kit and the construction is fantastic, Ill have an install thread in a few weeks. I had similar issues with the Buschur core, I didnt want to modify my crash beam or undertray. Some people will tell you tough and get rid of it, I disagree, that crash beam is there for bumper strength in low speed collisions. I also feel that ETS makes a'prettier' set up. If those are your maximum goals for speed, you dont need a Buschur Race core or an ETS 4" core, 3.5" would be plenty and the LICP will yield the most additional HP.

After an IC if you still need more power, hit up an FP RED and a set of Kelford 272s (this is my route).

Good luck!

Bster13

iTrader: (2)

Budget for intercooler and piping is $800 or so...would love to pick up something used too (I am considering used AMS 3.6in core FMIC for sale as well for $550.) but again, not sure where to go with the FMIC yet.

Nils..good deal on the brakes (I will be rocking ST43 pads at the recommendation of others, do you recommend them?), the duct cooling kit, and suspension mods listed above (no coilovers and I loved SmikeEvo's setup after a test ride...still a DD). I just need to sort my cooling...hopefully this thread takes care of that.

Y no-go on the harness b4 a roll cage? (I don't want to run a roll cage if I can help it) I figure the better I am secured in my seat the better for driving feel. no?

Protostar1

iTrader: (4)

No harness without a roll bar because in case of a rollover, you will not slide out of your seat at all, you will be crushed. However, if you have a standard belt, you would be pushed out of the seat by the crushing roof as opposed to death

Bster13

iTrader: (2)

gotcha Protostar1....hrmm, looking at your mods in your sig, would u feel comfy running with the cars I have listed?

(forgot to mention...$800 tops on the FMIC, but I have $~1000 more for other things if need be...but keep in mind I want to preserve DD, stock turbo, injectors, caps, fuel pump, etc....I like decent MPG too.

nils

iTrader: (56)

if u have to get a harness... go with the Schroth that has the asm technology in it... your spine will thank you if you ever get in a roll-over accident.. there is still a chance for submarining though on a frontal collision.

I think you should just get a cg-lock for now... that is the safest choice for a car with no rollbar or harness bar... once you decide to make the car less family friendly you can go to a 5 or 6 point harness..