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How does ur engine oil look after 2k miles?

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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 10:40 PM
  #16  
RAbishi's Avatar
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From: South Dakota
Mine looks a little darker then when I poured it in.
Old Dec 30, 2008 | 01:56 PM
  #17  
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From: Mesoamerica/ SF Bay Area
Originally Posted by Jeff_Jeske
Oddly mine stays fairly clean unless the car is really **** pounded during a lapping day. A severe duty lapping event can change it from fresh and golden the night before to dark brown in 300 miles.
I think filtration and age has alot to do with it. Mine has 12k on it but I run only OEM oil and air filters (yes stock paper filters).
You're not running those toilet paper oil filters are you? JK
Old Dec 30, 2008 | 02:08 PM
  #18  
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From: Prosper, TX
The air filter used makes a big difference in oil life. Those of you running OEM paper air filters can expect to most likely have the longest oil life. With synthetic oil, a quality oil filter, and a quality air filter I would not hesitate to go 5k miles and beyond between changes.
Old Dec 30, 2008 | 02:43 PM
  #19  
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after 1,000 miles my oil is black. I change my oil between 1k and 2k miles
Old Dec 30, 2008 | 07:03 PM
  #20  
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From: Grand Island, NE
Whatever brand of synthetic you choose to use, since it is more expensive than regular oil, you are probably also getting the company's best additive package.....meaning lots of detergent. So, I would expect synthetic oil to darken quickly in any automotive engine.
Old Dec 30, 2008 | 07:10 PM
  #21  
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From: kent wa
Originally Posted by detroit pistins
how drive ur car? not boosting alot?
I drive my car hard when its the right time. On ramps I usually rip through 2nd, 3rd, and about the middle of fourth.

I either drive the car hard (when its the right time) or either really soft and shift before 3500k in every gear with no boost.
Old Dec 30, 2008 | 07:13 PM
  #22  
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From: Prosper, TX
Originally Posted by chrisblueevo
after 1,000 miles my oil is black. I change my oil between 1k and 2k miles
Unless those are all actual track miles you must love wasting time and money!
Old Dec 30, 2008 | 10:37 PM
  #23  
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From: Detroit
Originally Posted by importjake00
I drive my car hard when its the right time. On ramps I usually rip through 2nd, 3rd, and about the middle of fourth.

I either drive the car hard (when its the right time) or either really soft and shift before 3500k in every gear with no boost.

when u say u rip through 2nd and 3rd , u mean 5.5k rpm+? if that is the case then ur definitly driving ur car alot harder than mine and seeing a nicer oil.....that's a great thing!

i guess iam comparing mine with my daily driver (ford focus....which by the way I blew the bottom block on it last night driving home from work, so the evo is going to be my daily driver form now on)
Old Dec 31, 2008 | 07:11 AM
  #24  
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From: Trinidad
with k&n(pretty used) oil used to get pretty dark quick but with new amsoil dry filter oil stays cleaner than before

all else remained the same
Old Dec 31, 2008 | 07:26 AM
  #25  
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From: Jamaica
Originally Posted by heel2toe
The oil should look dark. That means it is doing its job. I would be panicking if my oil looked like new after 2000 miles

Yes, it is funny to me that people often talk about an oil being good because it still looks clean after 5000 miles or whatever.
Old Dec 31, 2008 | 07:31 AM
  #26  
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From: Perryville, MD
this is pretty long but explains exactly what you need to know!!

Oil Color vs. Lubrication Ability

We just wanted to give you some information on the color of oil once the engine starts getting mileage on it. It is a common misconception that an oil’s color is an indication of how “dirty” it is. This is not true. It is often a common tactic used at quick lubes and service centers; the technician pulls the dipstick and wipes it on a white shop cloth and shows the customer how “black and dirty” it is. Any oil will turn black after a short period of use. Some oils may stay “clean” looking longer than others, but eventually they all will turn black. This is perfectly normal.

When someone tells us how “clean” their oil is because they have pulled the dipstick and it looks clean we always tell them that it will eventually turn black. They also tell us when they pull the dipstick and it has becomes black and “dirty” it will require changing. That’s about the time we will pull our dipstick in one of our trucks and show them how black and “dirty” the oil is. We will then produce our latest oil analysis test report that provides laboratory chemical and spectrographic test data confirming that the oil perfectly suitable for continued service.

In general, the color of an oil does not have any bearing on its lubrication ability or whether or not the oil is suitable for continued use*. Most oil and especially diesel engine oil will turn black in the first few hours of operation due to contaminates generated by the combustion process and soot particles. It is the job of the filtration system to filter out the larger sized soot particles that can cause engine wear and the additive package of the oil to neutralize and hold in suspension the soot particles that are too small for the filter to trap and hold.

* Under certain conditions such fuel dilution, water contamination or glycol contamination, for example, the color can provide insight that something is mechanically wrong and in need of repair and/or additional analysis, however under normal operating conditions without mechanical problems present the black color which is commonly referred to as “dirty oil” in the vehicle servicing industry does not have any bearing on its lubrication ability.

The only way to accurately determine an oils lubricating value or contamination level is through (spectrographic) oil analysis. Oil analysis is common practice used regularly in commercial, industrial and fleet operations and can also be used for passenger cars, light trucks or any other application.

The useful life of an engine oil is dependent on several factors such as the quality of the oil, additive package blended in the oil and the TBN level of the oil (the ability of an oil to neutralize acidic by-products of combustion), type of fuel, equipment condition, type and operating environment of the equipment and the type of filtration.

The filtration system and the oil are vital tools for preserving engine life. A highly efficient oil filter is essential to protect an engine by removing both liquid abrasive contaminants held in suspension by the oil. It must be stated and understood with critical importance that there are wide variances in the quality of motor oils. Certain lower quality oils do not have quality base stock oils and additive packages to support long drain intervals while other higher quality oils can have significantly longer drain intervals. There are two oil manufacturers that I am aware of that make a premium quality synthetic motor oil that has standard recommended drain interval of 25,000 miles/1-year and one oil manufacturer (AMSOIL) has a 35,000 mile/1-year premium quality severe service synthetic oil with standard filtration or no oil changes with by-pass filtration and oil analysis monitoring.

Also keep in mind that the micron rating of an engine oil filter means absolutely nothing unless the efficiency (particle capture percentage) of the filter is stated also. If a filter is stated to be a “10 micron filter” but the efficiency graph shows it only traps 5% of the 10 micron particles then it isn’t doing much good at filtering out 10 micron particles.

You can look up and see which filters fits your vehicle by visiting here MailScanner has detected a possible fraud attempt from "getresponse.com" claiming to be http://filters.easymotoroil.com <http://getresponse.com/click.html?x=a62a&lc=kvyU&mc=f&s=iXFGp&y=5&>

To order Amsoil motor oil and filters, be sure to call:
1-800-956-5695 between 7 AM and 5 PM CST.
Old Dec 31, 2008 | 08:04 PM
  #27  
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From: Maryville, TN
If your oil seems to get dark quick, smell the dipstick. If it smells like gas, I would suggest doing an Oil Analysis to check for fuel dilution.

2% Dilution is MAX. Any more than that you begin to wash the cylinders and cause excesive engine wear.

I sell OA Kits for $22.55 including postage to you and to the Lab. This is an ISO Accredited Lab and the results can be viewed online.

It is more than just checking the oil. Analysis when used as a Tool is Cheap Insurance to look inside your engine to see if there is any problem with rings, liners, bearings, fuel dilution Etc...

There is another thread going on this subject as well.


Doc
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