Running 35r on stock maf
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Running 35r on stock maf
Hi guys is anyone running a gt35r on a stock maf i am running a gt3076 on stock maf at the minute and i have epoxyed the honeycomb in to give more support
I am wanting to know when running a 35r do people remove the honeycomb or leave it in place and if removed what effect does this have on the load that the ecu sees
I am wanting to know when running a 35r do people remove the honeycomb or leave it in place and if removed what effect does this have on the load that the ecu sees
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Very nice and helpful guy from all accounts by his customers.
#5
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DO NOT REMOVE THE HONEYCOMB, it will ruin the sensor and foul up the metering and drivability.. Epoxy is a good safety measure if your moving alot of air, but there's plenty of GT35r guys running with a completely unmodified MAF.
If you find you've exceeded the capacity of the stock MAF to meter properly, you have other options too.
If you find you've exceeded the capacity of the stock MAF to meter properly, you have other options too.
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<-untouched stock MAF with no epoxy all year.
People used to hack up 2g MAFs back in the DSM days but they had 4 honeycombs in them. People would remove all but teh center one.
The EVO only has one screen. the one infront of the wire. You will probably have alot fo uncontrollable driviabilty and stalling issues with out extremely changing all the settings in your tune.
People used to hack up 2g MAFs back in the DSM days but they had 4 honeycombs in them. People would remove all but teh center one.
The EVO only has one screen. the one infront of the wire. You will probably have alot fo uncontrollable driviabilty and stalling issues with out extremely changing all the settings in your tune.
#9
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<-untouched stock MAF with no epoxy all year.
People used to hack up 2g MAFs back in the DSM days but they had 4 honeycombs in them. People would remove all but teh center one.
The EVO only has one screen. the one infront of the wire. You will probably have alot fo uncontrollable driviabilty and stalling issues with out extremely changing all the settings in your tune.
People used to hack up 2g MAFs back in the DSM days but they had 4 honeycombs in them. People would remove all but teh center one.
The EVO only has one screen. the one infront of the wire. You will probably have alot fo uncontrollable driviabilty and stalling issues with out extremely changing all the settings in your tune.
The Evo X has a hotwire maf.
We did this last night on a 35R HTA with stock MAF. This is an actual dyno and not a Datalog Lab estimated hp figure as has been quoted further up in the thread.
I would like to see Mellon get on a dyno sometime. He is welcome to drive down south here and dyno for free if he would like.
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I understand that the differnce between a Hotwire that uses temperature change across the wire to detemine flow rate compared to a Karmen Vortex meter that uses a frequency output of the said wire to determine flow rate,
We can talk about Vane style meters if you want to but this thread is about the factory 8/9 meter that does not need to have the honeycombs removed to make big power that is not he same on every dyno.
Thanks for the input about the Xs being hotwire. That I wasnt aware of as I havent even seen one in person yet letalone work on one.
We can talk about Vane style meters if you want to but this thread is about the factory 8/9 meter that does not need to have the honeycombs removed to make big power that is not he same on every dyno.
Thanks for the input about the Xs being hotwire. That I wasnt aware of as I havent even seen one in person yet letalone work on one.
#11
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Mellon is running the hta86 w/ stock maf, and he finally DID remove the honeycomb after having it glued in for a while. It's just one of those things where a bunch of people on EvoM say don't do it, and then someone like Mellon tries it, and it works. He was able to tune his car just fine without the honeycomb.
Last edited by MasterNater; Jan 1, 2009 at 12:05 PM.
#12
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I don't think so.. There's no need to remove the MAF honeycomb, All it does is direct airflow properly passed the Karmann sensor. Without the honeycomb, you will have a large amount of turbulence at different airflow rates resulting in inconsistent and unpredictable output of the MAF, therefore making it Difficult to impossible to tune consistently.
You should periodically check your honeycomb for damage, as dings and bends WILL generate turbulence and in some cases "lift" causing the honeycomb to become further damaged. its not uncommon to see many of the outer edges of a MAF sensor with damage, those are the ones that seem to become "compressed" and then dislodged. The Epoxy will help keep that from happening, but its not necessary.
Remember, we're not talking about sheer air volume here, as removing the honeycomb will result in more air being able to travel through, but what good is it if you cannot measure it properly? But hey, if you want to remove your honeycomb after getting cautioned against it, fine, just remember to put a new MAF on the car when you finally decide to sell the car because you made it run like crap.
You should periodically check your honeycomb for damage, as dings and bends WILL generate turbulence and in some cases "lift" causing the honeycomb to become further damaged. its not uncommon to see many of the outer edges of a MAF sensor with damage, those are the ones that seem to become "compressed" and then dislodged. The Epoxy will help keep that from happening, but its not necessary.
Remember, we're not talking about sheer air volume here, as removing the honeycomb will result in more air being able to travel through, but what good is it if you cannot measure it properly? But hey, if you want to remove your honeycomb after getting cautioned against it, fine, just remember to put a new MAF on the car when you finally decide to sell the car because you made it run like crap.