Turbones

It must be the clutch not the drive shaft

holiday63

iTrader: (23)

i dont think its the clutch, but I have heard several theories (some more absurd than others) as this seems to be common.

StreetEvo

Did your mechanic do a timing belt? Is the vibration accompanied by an audibly loud noise, like that of a very raspy exhaust? If it is, you're timing may be on but your oil pump drive/front balance shaft is 180* out of alignment. I've dealt with the same vibration and noise on 2 different cars, both required the same fix. Even if the mark lines up on the oil pump drive pulley it can be out. There is a trick to making sure it is in before you put the timing belt on; Start with the pulley's timing mark at 12 o'clock, then rotate the pulley clockwise to the 9 o'clock position and release it. If the timing mark moves(it's very slight as the shaft is counterbalanced) towards the 6 o'clock, the shaft is 180* out of time. If it moves towards the 12 o'clock position it is in time and you can finish lining up the marks and install the timing belt.

binky

iTrader: (11)

Bringing this thread back...
I just had my mechanic do a balance shaft delete using the AMS race balance shaft delete kit. Because the engine was still in the car, (I had him do my 60K service early before I put my FP Black in), you can't remove the front balance shaft. He did do the rear balance shaft.

I took my car out and it sounded like it had an exhaust leak. Even though I don't have the balance shaft belt on could this be why the car is SO loud now? It seems to happen around 3800 RPM and 6900 RPM.

I did have him put an AVID racing motor mount on the passenger side. I am planning on doing the driver side this coming weekend.

My question is - is it the balance shaft delete? The front balance shaft being out 180 degrees? Or the motor mount (or some mix of all of these).


Thanks for the help.



-Bink

robogast

iTrader: (15)

I have 3 out of the 4 solid motor mounts in the car. There is a big difference in the vibrations when you install the solid motor mounts. I had all 4 motor mounts in but the rear one caused the windshield and dash to vibrate too much and i didnt like it. So i put the stock motor mount in the rear. Im not sure how much more vibrations you get when you take out the balance shafts but i hope this helps.

robogast

iTrader: (15)

Ok im back on with the same problem. Originally my driveshaft vibrated due to my rear motor mount being loose. Im having the same problem now only i know my rear motor mount is tight. So i got underneath and noticed that my driveshaft carrier bearings seemed pretty worn out. So i tried tightening them. Well my luck came into play and i snapped one of the carrier bearing bolts in half. So i went to get new carrier bearings from the dealership and asked if the bolt i snapped was replaceable. They said that it might be welded into the unibody.

So i have to see about getting that fixed before i can put in the new carrier bearings to see if that solves the problem.

robogast

iTrader: (15)

Ok i just replaced the driveshaft carrier bearings and it stopped the vibration i was getting out of my driveshaft. The carrier bearings are easy to replace all you need is an impact gun and a hammer. quick and easy.

revvin9k

iTrader: (23)

Where did you buy the replacements at? I was under the impression you were unable to buy them separately.

robogast

iTrader: (15)

I got them at the mitsubishi dealership. they are $73.00 a peice. Its not hard to replace.