dhahlen

iTrader: (2)

Ok, aside from the horribly obvious in the dyno graph, I'd like to know where things are going wrong.

Here is the setup:

RRE GT35r
Poorboy Cast Shortrunner Manifold
Tial WG
GSC 272 Cams
Walbro 255lph Pump
1000cc injectors
AEM Ems w/Boost Comp - Full MAP conversion

The problems:

-BOV is a knockoff, was like this when I bought it - you can see it catching on itself (look at the pic)
-AFR's were stupid rich
-Dyno AFR reading was via a sniffer
-Turbo has a bit of in/out shaft play, and minimal up and down play (normal?)

What I've done:

-Replaced the spark plugs. They were the same as what was in there before, which was NGK BPR8ES, gapped at .027
-Purchased an HKS Twin Power DLI
-Replacing Knockoff BOV w/Tial BOV

I have not logged any data with the ECU because I haven't picked up a serial/usb adapter yet. Someone told me to hook up the ECU, log the timing, boost, and afr and see how it compares to the graph.

So... where do I begin?

The breakup seems pretty bad, but the plugs I pulled weren't horrible.. or were they? (see pic)

How much shaft play is normal in a GT35r?

Boost was creeping to about 22-23psi in 3rd and 4th gear pulls.

Why so much breakup? Think its just getting flooded with too much fuel to burn and causing it to break up pretty bad?

Previous owner made over 400whp with this tune and setup - I had yet to change anything when this was dyno'd.

Should I have the boost area re-tuned using AEM's boost comp?

Just looking for some advice on where to go from here...

Thanks,
Darren

GST Motorsports

iTrader: (8)

Looks like it dips into the 9's AFR. Most likely the car is choking on it's own fuel.

getsideways

iTrader: (18)

yeah the plugs look great but shoot for high 10s at least anything under that could be too rich make sure you move to that point slowly and watch for signs of knock ,,,,
Could also be a boost leak causing it to be that rich i had similar trouble ...
good job on posting very good info we can learn something from you

dhahlen

iTrader: (2)

Thanks guys... I'm going to replace what I can and do a re-tune this weekend.

Thing is, my AEM Wideband doesn't read below 10. It will get down to 10.2 ish, which is still pretty low I suppose. But when you're trying to street tune, you don't tend to keep your eye on the gauges...

I need to hook up the AEM and see what it's doing...

Think the breakup is due to too much fuel?

As far as boost leak - I should probably get that tested as well, I think replacing the BOV will probably help since it's catching on itself.

Also, I mentioned they were using a sniffer to take these readings - these things aren't as accurate since they sit too far from the combustion area... what do you think?

Keep the input rollin!

Slo_crx1

iTrader: (9)

First off, shaft play on a ball bearing turbo is bad, even on a journal bearing turbo there should be no in and out play with just a hair of up and down for bearing clearance. That knock-off Tial doesn't look too healthy either, I'd look into replacing that. Your afr's are really rich, if anything the richest they should dip should be in the low 11's for safety's sake. I'm of the same belief as you with the tailpipe wideband sniffers, they're just way too far back to have a 100% accurate reading.

RiversideMitsu

iTrader: (12)

Get the cable so you can check your internal logs (An AFR that low will cause the car to buck). You could try a .24 gap on the plugs but I don't think it's your ignition at that power level. Ditch that junk BOV and check for boost leaks.

DynoFlash

iTrader: (91)

A few points

I would gap the plugs much tighter on that application - try 23 for starters

The settings in the AEM for coil dwell etc are very important for success - the AEM box is not the best ignition and requires often some tweaking to get it to fire clean

Obviously you are way too rich on the a/f and that can result in hard to light spark conditions

I would suggest that you consider taking the project to a experienced professional AEM certified tuner in your area.

Al

evoredy

iTrader: (7)

+1 on the plug gap. i can see from the pics the gap is HUGE. .023 will make a world of difference and allow at least 26psi or more without blowout. the plugs do look really good/newish though regardless.

I have a similar/nearly exact setup/just stock ECU.

EDIT: about the shaftplay, nothing more that 1/32" i would say. 1/16th" or more and you'll probably see machining on the compressor housing. don't go put too much force on the shaft while checking/if the turbo spools down for a decent amount of time on shut off, doesn't smoke, and has been taken care of, should be good to go.

ditch the BOV too heh. good luck and post the high GT35r numbers later lol.

dhahlen

iTrader: (2)

THis video isn't too great, so use the sound as a helper...

I am testing the in/out shaft play.. you can hear it...

Think this guy needs to be replaced?

Also, I'll re-gap the plugs to .023 and see how it likes it!

evoredy

iTrader: (7)

holy crap dude, that turbo needs a rebuild/is there oil in it? that could be the reason for the in/out play. i don't know what else to say. be careful.

have a reputable turbo builder chime in here before you go do some pulls.

EDIT: it spins fine though and the bearings sound ok. i could just be dead wrong so get someone else's opinion.

dhahlen

iTrader: (2)

It's ball bearing - I am going to see if I can do the CHRA swap with Garrett for $400, I think it only applies to the GT3582 though, so we'll see tomorrow.

However, if there isn't anything wrong... then I'll leave it alone.

Kind of hard to tell from the video.

evoredy

iTrader: (7)

good plan. yeah, the sounds are just amplified in the video/get another opinion.

if it were me, i'd regap and do another logged pull @25PSI . (you didn't hear that/don't do it/it's not my fault lol)

dhahlen

iTrader: (2)

If I can get solid advice regarding the turbo (i'll be calling my buddy who is a garrett junkie), then I think we'll have some progress this weekend.

I should have the BOV replaced, as well as the regapped plugs, HKS Twin Power, and on the dyno to lean out that rich area.

I am hoping to move up at least 50hp, 70 would be nice though.

If the turbo needs replacing, then I'm probably going to go with a bigger hotside or 37r. But I rather not spend the money right now.... =/

RiversideMitsu

iTrader: (12)

I don't recommend turning up the boost until after you resolve your misfire issues. And at 19-23 psi you should regap the plugs as people have recommended. Have you performed a boost leak test yet? I think your misfire issue is a combonation of the problems you listed.

dhahlen

iTrader: (2)

So, this is what is on the to-do list:

1.) Re-gap plugs to .023
2.) Boost Leak Test
3.) Get turbo checked (replace?)
4.) Replace BOV with an actual Tial
5.) Log data using AEM, compare to dyno
6.) Lean out / retune boost area

EDIT: Just got off the phone with a friend of a friend over at garrett - the play is normal, once the oil pressure hits that play will get chopped in half. He said if the wheels aren't rubbing on any part of the housing, and it spins freely, you can rule out the turbo as a problem. However, the 3567 does not apply for the swap program, has to be an off the shelf 3582.

1.) Plugs were done
2.) No Boost Leaks
3.) Turbo is good
4.) BOV Replaced
5.) Re-tune in Progress
6.) Re-tune in progress

Car is up for sale now - seems my tune is getting an overhaul and we're fixing all the issues on the top end. Tuner said I could make over 400hp but he recommended against it just because you'll shorten engine life if you choose to run it like that on 91 octane. Tune is very conservative, but the car will last very long at the power he makes. If the car doesn't sale - then I'll end up building a 2.3 or 2.4L and running E85, just trying to decide whether I want to fork over 6k in parts/labor to do it all.