norcalSRTrida

iTrader: (1)

How's it going guys. I'm basically set on either 1 of these two rods for my build. currently have a HTA30r, but will upgrade to a HTA82 or 6262 in the future after the motor build for 550-600hp...

I know its all a matter of opinion when dealing w/ very good rods as such, but which would you prefer?

the turbo tuff's are 3/8" ARP 2000 rod bolts. Are the Crowers 7/16"?

How can Manley state their turbo tuff i-beams are good for 1000hp, yet the ARP-2000 rod bolt's hp threshold is 800hp (200hp/rod rating)?


Call me skeptical, but i'm just a tad weary doing 27-30psi and worrying about rod bolt failure (extremely rare i know, but i just dont want to **** $ down the drain).

i do like the fact that both are shot-peened, magnafluxed, and somewhat balanced before leaving the doors. tolerances of the Crowers are w/in +/- .0001" while the Manley TT's are +/- .0002", so extremely close.


gimme some opinions. thanks guys.

Mike


oh, and i've read every informative thread/posts that pertained to the two rods in regards to success/strengths that popped up in the search, tho pretty lackluster.

dryad001

iTrader: (27)

The only advise I can offer is with the Manley rods, when my builder put everything together all the rods were within 1 gram of each other. I would have to give him a call and ask what the tolerances were since I had him keep my build sheet.

norcalSRTrida

iTrader: (1)

w/in 1g is pretty good.

my machinist is gunna get the whole piston/rod assemblies w/in .5g of eachother.

my last motor i dropped CP's in on stock rods...and lets just say, this is the reason why i am building another motor... so im pretty paranoid, and will make sure everything is spec'd and balanced as best as it can get.

thanks for the insight.

oh, and did you get the manley H or I beams? and what ya putting down?

norcalSRTrida

iTrader: (1)

**deleted due to it showing up twice

Celica2EVO

iTrader: (58)

Order a BR stage 3 head and block. 576 hp on PUMP gas on the BR Heartbreaker dyno. Id say the crower rods in my motor are doing great. since this set-up has about 14k miles on it and over 50 passes in the 9s and 10s last year. went 10.38 on pump and 9.89 on Q16.

norcalSRTrida

iTrader: (1)

props on your numbers and 1/4 times man. definately amazing.

unfortunately, i cant afford to buy a BR kit due to a budget. i have some strings thru a very reputable shop locally that will build it all for me.


My main concern is mainly geared toward the capabilities of the ARP-2000 3/8" rodbolts, and whether or not Crower's have 7/16" rod bolts or not (on some car models they do).

Erik@MIL.SPEC

iTrader: (94)

You can always upgrade the rods bolts. ARP custom-aged 625's for example.

03whitegsr

iTrader: (8)

I'm pretty sure the Crowers use ARP 2000 (or eqv) 3/8 bolts as well.

Rod bolts typically fail from RPM and not power though.

Chris@nolimitmotors

iTrader: (277)

We always use Turbo Tuff's.

norcalSRTrida

iTrader: (1)

that's a hefty cost to upgrade isnt it? life for example, my bud was quoted for 380 for BC rods w/ ARP2000's, and the same rod w/ the custom aged's for like 630 i believe...

those bolts really that much better/cost effective?

norcalSRTrida

iTrader: (1)

RPM, torque, and detonation are the prime factors. detonation isnt an issue (im an extremely conservative tuner...low to mid 11afrs on race gas AND meth), and rpms wouldn't so much either (7500, w/ the occasionaly slightly higher shifts when necessary).

maybe im being just a lil too paranoid about using the standard ('economy' as some call it) rod bolts?

dryad001

iTrader: (27)

I think the "tuff" rods are i-beam but I could be wrong, id have to look at the box again. I havent gone to the dyno yet since Im still in the 500 break in period and with winter here I think I have 6-10 miles on the engine. Once its all said and done Ill be happy with 700 and thats all I want, anything over that will be too much for the street. If you search my threads I have my build in there but I probably wont update it since there isnt much interest in it. People would rather read about a shop who built their car for them.......

norcalSRTrida

iTrader: (1)

they look like an awesome and very sturdy rod. any particular reason why you choose the manleys over crower?

thanks

norcalSRTrida

iTrader: (1)

sorry about that, i was unclear. you're correct. the tuff's are i-beam. they do have a lower grade model in h-beam form though.

i will def. check your build thread out. solo builds are FTW. nothing like buying/piecing and assembling a motor yourself and enjoying the **** out of it.

cthcky5

iTrader: (15)

interesting thread...subscribed