freedom

iTrader: (1)

Installed the Mitsubishi sport gauge package tonight. Mitsubishi's procedure for running the boost hose and oil temp sensor is via a large rubber grommet inside the front right fender. This is accessed by dropping the plastic fender liner.

In the process of installing the hose and sensor wires I found a hole between the inner right fender and the passenger compartment due to an area where the seam sealer was missing!

The recall procedure has the dealer run water over the front windshield and then check the passenger compartment for dampness. They do not visually inspect the front seams. Note that the position of the void in the sealer was such that this water most likely ran past the void w/o any noticeable amount entering the passenger compartment.

I plan to check the other side. Maybe you should check your Evo....

N10S

iTrader: (4)

Hmmm....I have to run a boost line this weekend anyway so it seems like a good time to check! I just had the recall work done last week...wonder if they really got everything sealed?

So strat, you just lift and jack-stand the front end, remove the tire, then drop the plastic liner, and the hole is on the inner back side of the fender... right? Did you just silicone seal it?

Thanks for the heads-up!


N10S

freedom

iTrader: (1)

Actually you can just turn the wheel and drop the back side of the liner w/o jacking up the car. Mitsubishi supplied a chunk of butyl rubber (reminded me of bubble gum – no kidding) which you form around the line/wire. I was going to use black silicone seal but decided to try out the butyl rubber given that it is removable.

What I did was pop the grommet out from the outside of the car. There are three pass through areas in the grommet. The lower one is used for windshield washer fluid, while the middle for wiring. The top pass through is untouched.

I tried to put the line and wire through the center pass though but there just isn't sufficient room for a rubber line. If one has a thin plastic line or a few wires this would be a viable strategy.

Thus I made a circular hole in the top pass through, in the area provided by Mitsuibishi. The grommet is then simply popped back into position after you get the correct amount of line inside of the vehicle.

With respect to running the line inside the car, Mitsubishi suggest running the lines behind the heater box. I found that this was not difficult and really completely hides the install. Obviously taking out the glove box helps.

Inside of the fender I wire tied the line to the existing harness such that it comes to the front harness access port (Mitsubishi’s name) at the front right of the engine compartment. From there routing is obvious.

With respect to tapping into the vacuum, Mitsubishi has one cut a tee into the medium size line which feeds the fuel pressure regulator’s solenoid. The tee itself has an orifice on the gauge side that I assume prevents screwing up the car if the line becomes damaged or disconnected.

I don’t have a picture of the inner fender given that I was too lazy to get cleaned up to handle the camera. (At least I admit it….) A picture of the instruction illustrates what I wrote above.

I can put large pictures of the instructions up on ftp site if anyone is interested.

freedom

iTrader: (1)

Also,

freedom

iTrader: (1)

and,

N10S

iTrader: (4)

Strat-

Thanks for the reference details and pics! I knew about the Fpr interface, but the routing is definitely different than I would have though! Thanks again!!

N10S

freedom

iTrader: (1)

Checked the left side inner fender area and the seams are properly sealed.

Makes you wonder where the touch up production line worker was when these cars were built!

freedom

iTrader: (1)

In reference to a question where the line is connected to the engine here is a picture

colateralgees

beautiful!...thanks for taking the time to post that

that's the hose (to the turbo bypass valve) I was planning on tapping, failing any other info, but it's good to know I "picked" the same one...

eevoo

iTrader: (10)

The BOV hose is the one I tapped too. I reckon if you lose vacuum on that hose cause the guage fails or something, the effect on the car would be less catastrophic than if you lose vacuum on the FPR.