antwon6420

iTrader: (6)

UPDATE (1/12): I went through last night and put a DV on, and checked at the stock soft pieces of IC piping for holes. It started up and idled for 30 minutes after, and then I went to drive it, and as soon as I got in the street, it died(at running temp).

Well, I started it up this morning and it ran fine, so I turned it off and left. I came home tonight, put it in reverse to back it out of the garage, and then parked it out side.

It stayed running with no problems. Once it got up to operating temp, I pulled out of the driveway to drive it, and it died once again. I am lost.



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Well, last night I was driving to downtown, and as soon as I got off of the highway and stopped at the light, my car just shut off.

Since then, the car runs perfectly fine once I begin moving, but it will not idle at all, it just shuts right off.

To start it, I have to turn it over, and then begin to give it gas. When driving, any time I come to a stop sign or light, it will shut off unless I push the clutch in and give it a little gas.

Has anyone had this problem, or does anyone have any idea what it could be?

I have looked at all of the couplers and vacum lines, and it all appears to be in good shape.

Thanks for any help

Anthony





FWIW, my mods that could affect this are Walbro 255, an intake, and Forge DV.
Othe than that, I cannot see any of my mods being related to this issue.

LancerEVA06

iTrader: (3)

maybe a fuel pressure issue at idle?

MR_Evo_Rob

Sounds like you have a bad Idle Air Control valve.

fryedchikin

Reset the ECU and see if will relearn to idle correctly.

bigben

iTrader: (4)

even something as small as a pin hole in a vac line can cause it at least idle funny or possibly cut off

TS8

iTrader: (15)

I had the same issue at around 60K,
it is most likely a bad Idle Air Speed Control Valve.

As a temporary fix, you can turn up the Base Speed Control Screw at the throttle.

antwon6420

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the help so far guys.

I put the stock DV on it today, and it idled at first, but the next time I went to start it, it continued to not run. I ordered new UICP and a new DV, so if that doesn't fix it, I will try the IACV. Any ideas where to get those cheap?

Also, if you have any other ideas of what could be causing this, please continue to post.


Anthony

antwon6420

iTrader: (6)

UP.......

OP updated

itsme4g63

iTrader: (46)

I wouold pull out your ecu and take off the cover and look if anything like the capacitors burst open or are leaking (my ecu was casuing the fuel pump to turn off). I had the same problem on my dsm (theory should be similar) and the caps were leaking bad. If that is the case, I'd suggest contacting this guy:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/members/steve-164.html

He is a electronics ecu guru and has repaired a many ecu's including mine (dsm that is, my 9's too new to have its fried)

or this guy

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mitsu...Q5fAccessories

antwon6420

iTrader: (6)

Bump........

Putting a new IAC on tomrrow, any other ideas?

hlm

iTrader: (26)

try the iac i bet that is were ur problem is

SilverShadow03

iTrader: (19)

I had a similar problem except my car wouldn't idle at all....and I just replaced (today) my IAC with a used one from Aby@Mil.Spec and it idles like nothing was ever wrong with it!!

I would suggest checking your IAC as that may be your culprit.

Psquared

iTrader: (18)

Man...I've been chasing an idle problem too. I have many more mods that could be in question..anyone think an IACV can go bad in 21k miles? Is there any other way to "test" it than swapping it out?

SilverShadow03

iTrader: (19)

There is a way of testing the IAC...I was told to unscrew the 3 screws holding in the IAC and leave the electrical connector on....have a friend turn over the the motor while you see if the IAC actuates/moves when cranking....something to that effect...not 100% sure if this is the CORRECT way but it was suggested to me.. I did not test this method in order to back up this testing method.