Buschur Racing doing a start to finish EVO8 build, need input.
Jan 25, 2009, 11:45 AM
#226
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If I tell my wife I am buying a MANLEY ROD she will prob give me a dirty look
I always liked the Pauter rods - they are a great shop also
Manley has been getting a super good reputation lately though and they are on the east coast
Jan 25, 2009, 12:14 PM
#227
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You add final drive because you cannot rev as high, using the stroker you get the added tq/spool advantage but you need a gearing advantage to keep up with cars that can rev to 9k because you are limited with respect to redline.
The gearing effectively makes your 8-8500rpm redline closer to what the 2l builds can handle speed wise.
Scorke
The gearing effectively makes your 8-8500rpm redline closer to what the 2l builds can handle speed wise.
Scorke
Sorry for going OT, but this has been bugging me for a long time.
Jan 25, 2009, 04:31 PM
#228
blueevoIX, yes, the top resonator is similar to what I saw the huge losses on but not exactly, it was even worse than that.
The idea behind the 4.11 final drive is simply to allow the car to have more top end speed and keep the RPM down.
Do not confuse BC, Brian Crower, with CROWER. They are two completely different companies. I do not use BC's products because they are all knock-offs of someone else's from what I can tell and built in China. We just got a set of sample rods sent in, copies of the actual Crower rod. I just have no respect for that kind of crap. I do use and believe in genuine Crower parts but not the knock off crap.
The rev limit of the 2 liter cannot be matched with a 4.11 gear ratio mated to a 2.3 liter engine. Our typical 2 liter will go to 10,000 rpm with no problem. Depending on the build I can get quite a bit more than that out of it if need be, 12,000 isn't impossible. Is it needed? Probably not but it will do it.
The idea behind the 4.11 final drive is simply to allow the car to have more top end speed and keep the RPM down.
Do not confuse BC, Brian Crower, with CROWER. They are two completely different companies. I do not use BC's products because they are all knock-offs of someone else's from what I can tell and built in China. We just got a set of sample rods sent in, copies of the actual Crower rod. I just have no respect for that kind of crap. I do use and believe in genuine Crower parts but not the knock off crap.
The rev limit of the 2 liter cannot be matched with a 4.11 gear ratio mated to a 2.3 liter engine. Our typical 2 liter will go to 10,000 rpm with no problem. Depending on the build I can get quite a bit more than that out of it if need be, 12,000 isn't impossible. Is it needed? Probably not but it will do it.
Jan 25, 2009, 04:38 PM
#230
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blueevoIX, yes, the top resonator is similar to what I saw the huge losses on but not exactly, it was even worse than that.
The idea behind the 4.11 final drive is simply to allow the car to have more top end speed and keep the RPM down.
Do not confuse BC, Brian Crower, with CROWER. They are two completely different companies. I do not use BC's products because they are all knock-offs of someone else's from what I can tell and built in China. We just got a set of sample rods sent in, copies of the actual Crower rod. I just have no respect for that kind of crap. I do use and believe in genuine Crower parts but not the knock off crap.
The rev limit of the 2 liter cannot be matched with a 4.11 gear ratio mated to a 2.3 liter engine. Our typical 2 liter will go to 10,000 rpm with no problem. Depending on the build I can get quite a bit more than that out of it if need be, 12,000 isn't impossible. Is it needed? Probably not but it will do it.
The idea behind the 4.11 final drive is simply to allow the car to have more top end speed and keep the RPM down.
Do not confuse BC, Brian Crower, with CROWER. They are two completely different companies. I do not use BC's products because they are all knock-offs of someone else's from what I can tell and built in China. We just got a set of sample rods sent in, copies of the actual Crower rod. I just have no respect for that kind of crap. I do use and believe in genuine Crower parts but not the knock off crap.
The rev limit of the 2 liter cannot be matched with a 4.11 gear ratio mated to a 2.3 liter engine. Our typical 2 liter will go to 10,000 rpm with no problem. Depending on the build I can get quite a bit more than that out of it if need be, 12,000 isn't impossible. Is it needed? Probably not but it will do it.
I assumed that Brian Crower was the guy's son
I am going to check into this
Al
Jan 25, 2009, 04:46 PM
#232
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Brian Crower grew up at Crower Cams & Equipment Company, where he headed up the Crower Sport Compact division since its inception. With Crower Cams heavily focused on the V8 market, Brian saw an opportunity to truly support the needs of the Sport Compact community. With the support of his family, Brian Crower Inc. was formed to deliver the highest quality internal engine components for a variety of popular engine platforms.
I guess its just the sign of the time
Still, after I saw what he was doing, I started to shy away from Crower never the less
Jan 26, 2009, 02:50 PM
#234
There isn't a 2.1 block, there is a 2.1 build. It uses a 2.4 block and can use a variety of pistons/rods to bring it to 2.1.
The 2.4 block is a cheap way to build an engine because the blocks can be bought cheap. It's a good alternative for someone on a budget trying to fix an EVO with a bad block.
I had a request from one of our wholesalers to build one for a customer of theirs. I have custom rods and pistons being built now and should have them in about 2 weeks time. These parts will become normal stocking items for us after this first engine is finished.
The 2.4 block is a cheap way to build an engine because the blocks can be bought cheap. It's a good alternative for someone on a budget trying to fix an EVO with a bad block.
I had a request from one of our wholesalers to build one for a customer of theirs. I have custom rods and pistons being built now and should have them in about 2 weeks time. These parts will become normal stocking items for us after this first engine is finished.
Jan 26, 2009, 02:58 PM
#235
There isn't a 2.1 block, there is a 2.1 build. It uses a 2.4 block and can use a variety of pistons/rods to bring it to 2.1.
The 2.4 block is a cheap way to build an engine because the blocks can be bought cheap. It's a good alternative for someone on a budget trying to fix an EVO with a bad block.
I had a request from one of our wholesalers to build one for a customer of theirs. I have custom rods and pistons being built now and should have them in about 2 weeks time. These parts will become normal stocking items for us after this first engine is finished.
The 2.4 block is a cheap way to build an engine because the blocks can be bought cheap. It's a good alternative for someone on a budget trying to fix an EVO with a bad block.
I had a request from one of our wholesalers to build one for a customer of theirs. I have custom rods and pistons being built now and should have them in about 2 weeks time. These parts will become normal stocking items for us after this first engine is finished.
Nice to see some other budget options for getting a customer a built motor.. I personally dont like to do drop ins because we have a 100% success rate with your motors.. Im not going to try to reinvent the wheel when i know your builds work.. I look forward to more information on the 2.4L setup.. This will be great for the guy that blows a hole in a 4g63 and wants to get back on the road w/ a better than stock motor.. Thanks!!
Mike
Jan 26, 2009, 03:23 PM
#236
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So is BC a part of Crower?
Jan 26, 2009, 04:41 PM
#238
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There isn't a 2.1 block, there is a 2.1 build. It uses a 2.4 block and can use a variety of pistons/rods to bring it to 2.1.
The 2.4 block is a cheap way to build an engine because the blocks can be bought cheap. It's a good alternative for someone on a budget trying to fix an EVO with a bad block.
I had a request from one of our wholesalers to build one for a customer of theirs. I have custom rods and pistons being built now and should have them in about 2 weeks time. These parts will become normal stocking items for us after this first engine is finished.
The 2.4 block is a cheap way to build an engine because the blocks can be bought cheap. It's a good alternative for someone on a budget trying to fix an EVO with a bad block.
I had a request from one of our wholesalers to build one for a customer of theirs. I have custom rods and pistons being built now and should have them in about 2 weeks time. These parts will become normal stocking items for us after this first engine is finished.
We had a customer who bought a used Evo which he picked up at the bargain price of $8000 but he felt it needed a "tune up"
Upon examining the car we found 80 psi of compression on all 4 cylinders
Some previous owner had installed the 2.4 Block - 2.4L rods and pistons and a Evo crank. The piston was almost .33 " on an inch below the deck.
Since we only roll with Buschur Racing on engines we obviously needed to arrange a Buschur style soultion to the situation
Given that these Gallant 2.4 L blocks can be had for $200 - $400 in my area used it seems like a more economical solution for those who may wind up with a ruined Evo block
Al
Jan 26, 2009, 04:47 PM
#239
There isn't a 2.1 block, there is a 2.1 build. It uses a 2.4 block and can use a variety of pistons/rods to bring it to 2.1.
The 2.4 block is a cheap way to build an engine because the blocks can be bought cheap. It's a good alternative for someone on a budget trying to fix an EVO with a bad block.
I had a request from one of our wholesalers to build one for a customer of theirs. I have custom rods and pistons being built now and should have them in about 2 weeks time. These parts will become normal stocking items for us after this first engine is finished.
The 2.4 block is a cheap way to build an engine because the blocks can be bought cheap. It's a good alternative for someone on a budget trying to fix an EVO with a bad block.
I had a request from one of our wholesalers to build one for a customer of theirs. I have custom rods and pistons being built now and should have them in about 2 weeks time. These parts will become normal stocking items for us after this first engine is finished.
Nice to see some other budget options for getting a customer a built motor.. I personally dont like to do drop ins because we have a 100% success rate with your motors.. Im not going to try to reinvent the wheel when i know your builds work.. I look forward to more information on the 2.4L setup.. This will be great for the guy that blows a hole in a 4g63 and wants to get back on the road w/ a better than stock motor.. Thanks!!
Mike
Mike
Its an interesting story actually
We had a customer who bought a used Evo which he picked up at the bargain price of $8000 but he felt it needed a "tune up"
Upon examining the car we found 80 psi of compression on all 4 cylinders
Some previous owner had installed the 2.4 Block - 2.4L rods and pistons and a Evo crank. The piston was almost .33 " on an inch below the deck.
Since we only roll with Buschur Racing on engines we obviously needed to arrange a Buschur style soultion to the situation
Given that these Gallant 2.4 L blocks can be had for $200 - $400 in my area used it seems like a more economical solution for those who may wind up with a ruined Evo block
Al
We had a customer who bought a used Evo which he picked up at the bargain price of $8000 but he felt it needed a "tune up"
Upon examining the car we found 80 psi of compression on all 4 cylinders
Some previous owner had installed the 2.4 Block - 2.4L rods and pistons and a Evo crank. The piston was almost .33 " on an inch below the deck.
Since we only roll with Buschur Racing on engines we obviously needed to arrange a Buschur style soultion to the situation
Given that these Gallant 2.4 L blocks can be had for $200 - $400 in my area used it seems like a more economical solution for those who may wind up with a ruined Evo block
Al
Thanks guys for your responses!! I can see that for the guy on a budget, the 2.4L block can be a inexpensive alternative to get back on the road.
But money and cost aside, is there any significant power difference between the 2.0L build vs. the 2.1L build presuming that both motors use a HTA35R?
secondly, will one build last longer than another?
Thanks!
Jan 26, 2009, 05:57 PM
#240
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Nice to see some other budget options for getting a customer a built motor.. I personally dont like to do drop ins because we have a 100% success rate with your motors.. Im not going to try to reinvent the wheel when i know your builds work.. I look forward to more information on the 2.4L setup.. This will be great for the guy that blows a hole in a 4g63 and wants to get back on the road w/ a better than stock motor.. Thanks!!
Mike
Mike
Why pay $1,800 for a new block when you can get one for $200