Buschur Racing begins "Project White" a wicked street build.
Feb 4, 2009, 11:09 AM
#19
I am actually going to use the stock ECU in the car. Will it stay in there forever? Probably not but the build will be done using the stock ECU to see how far I can go on it. If the results are excellent I will keep it in there.
We use Mitsubishi stock head gaskets all the time here, they will hold 60 psi of boost without issue. On this car I am going to try one of the Cosworth gaskets because we bought a few to look at after an article I read on them by Eric Hsu.
The deck surface is surface cut to the smoothest possible finish we can get with the cutter that is used. That is the best answer I can give. It is not ground, it is cut.
Yes, the block must be clearanced to use the Turbo Tuff rods in a stroker. As for cleanances of any sort and bearings we use, I am not discussing the build in that much detail. This is an informative build but not a list of what to buy and how to build an engine yourself thread.
The 100 cell cat has no interest to me. The look of a cat and the OBDII coming up clean on a test is all that is needed to pass a test anywhere in the country. We personally have no emission testing here at all. On this build, I am guessing the power loss would be well over 40 whp with a cat on it.
The car will have a double pumper and 1,000 cc injectors should be more than enough for the Red. I'm figuring the car is going to make 450-500 whp and hoping for about the same amount of torque. An injector swap, if needed, will be easy enough.
We use Mitsubishi stock head gaskets all the time here, they will hold 60 psi of boost without issue. On this car I am going to try one of the Cosworth gaskets because we bought a few to look at after an article I read on them by Eric Hsu.
The deck surface is surface cut to the smoothest possible finish we can get with the cutter that is used. That is the best answer I can give. It is not ground, it is cut.
Yes, the block must be clearanced to use the Turbo Tuff rods in a stroker. As for cleanances of any sort and bearings we use, I am not discussing the build in that much detail. This is an informative build but not a list of what to buy and how to build an engine yourself thread.
The 100 cell cat has no interest to me. The look of a cat and the OBDII coming up clean on a test is all that is needed to pass a test anywhere in the country. We personally have no emission testing here at all. On this build, I am guessing the power loss would be well over 40 whp with a cat on it.
The car will have a double pumper and 1,000 cc injectors should be more than enough for the Red. I'm figuring the car is going to make 450-500 whp and hoping for about the same amount of torque. An injector swap, if needed, will be easy enough.
Feb 4, 2009, 11:38 AM
#26
I went back in and edited my first post with full retail pricing.
Please keep in mind there are things not listed at all on this build and then some others that the pricing is higher than you would pay if you called us. For instance, I listed the full retail prices of the i/c pipes, exhaust, battery kit, injectors etc. If you were to call and just order all of that in Stages 1-4 from our shop the price is considerably less doing it all at once.
I guess what I am trying to say is the prices are the "worst case scenario".
I also updated the exhaust and the other things that nobody thinks about on a build like this, like front cover, oil pump, timing belt, head studs etc.
Please keep in mind there are things not listed at all on this build and then some others that the pricing is higher than you would pay if you called us. For instance, I listed the full retail prices of the i/c pipes, exhaust, battery kit, injectors etc. If you were to call and just order all of that in Stages 1-4 from our shop the price is considerably less doing it all at once.
I guess what I am trying to say is the prices are the "worst case scenario".
I also updated the exhaust and the other things that nobody thinks about on a build like this, like front cover, oil pump, timing belt, head studs etc.
Feb 4, 2009, 11:45 AM
#27
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David, I thought you always said that you hated Aftermarket Cam Gears and for the BF272s you do not need them since they do not need to be degreed anyways???
Feb 4, 2009, 11:46 AM
#28
Yes, I am keeping the stock fuel lines for sure, that will not be a problem. John Shepherd's EVO has our double pumper and ran 9.90's at 140+ on E85, it's going faster when it comes out
I am basing my fuel choices on his build, that car made 590'ish here on our dyno.
We pull the engines out through the top and the trans out through the bottom. This particular car didn't have the engine/trans/transfer case in it when I bought it though.
Any P0300 codes should be easy to get around, that can be disabled in the ECU.
I don't want to discuss what I paid for the car, sorry.
I am basing my fuel choices on his build, that car made 590'ish here on our dyno.We pull the engines out through the top and the trans out through the bottom. This particular car didn't have the engine/trans/transfer case in it when I bought it though.
Any P0300 codes should be easy to get around, that can be disabled in the ECU.
I don't want to discuss what I paid for the car, sorry.
Feb 4, 2009, 11:47 AM
#29
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Thank you very much!
THis gives me a "worst case scenario" on whats its going to cost me when you guys do my motor, trans, and all that good stuff!
THis gives me a "worst case scenario" on whats its going to cost me when you guys do my motor, trans, and all that good stuff!
I went back in and edited my first post with full retail pricing.
Please keep in mind there are things not listed at all on this build and then some others that the pricing is higher than you would pay if you called us. For instance, I listed the full retail prices of the i/c pipes, exhaust, battery kit, injectors etc. If you were to call and just order all of that in Stages 1-4 from our shop the price is considerably less doing it all at once.
I guess what I am trying to say is the prices are the "worst case scenario".
I also updated the exhaust and the other things that nobody thinks about on a build like this, like front cover, oil pump, timing belt, head studs etc.
Please keep in mind there are things not listed at all on this build and then some others that the pricing is higher than you would pay if you called us. For instance, I listed the full retail prices of the i/c pipes, exhaust, battery kit, injectors etc. If you were to call and just order all of that in Stages 1-4 from our shop the price is considerably less doing it all at once.
I guess what I am trying to say is the prices are the "worst case scenario".
I also updated the exhaust and the other things that nobody thinks about on a build like this, like front cover, oil pump, timing belt, head studs etc.
Feb 4, 2009, 11:49 AM
#30
boostd3dxevo, you are correct, you do not need the cam gears. I want to experiment with this build, the E85, this special stroker I am building and in this case I may find something. I am NOT a fan of cam gears though. In the past I have had and have seen multiple sets fail and cause engine damage. The Fidanza gears are built much better than any I used in the past, I do not expect any problems from them. The cams will be installed straight up in the car like we suggest. Then later I will see what I can gain by moving them around.