So I am looking to invest some money into my car and I don't want to exceed $1500.

Current Mods: Intake, TBE, Reflash, MR BOV, MBC at 21 psi, LICP.

1. Are there any cams other then the GSC S1's that will allow me to keep the stockvalvetrain?

2. What do you think would be the approximate HP gain from the addition of a 10.5 hotside, O2 housing and GSC S1 cams plus a tune. ( I've already considered the Evo 9 turbo and it seems to expensive at the moment if I wanted to do cams also.)

I've done some research on the matter but I want to get some direct answers. Thanks!

 

Why don't you want to replace the valve train? You can put in the HKS 272's and still utilize the factory valve train. If you plan on doing cams, I'll also do head studs. What are your plans for the car?

 

My plan right now is to get more power and maintaining as much as stock as possible.

 

With a cam job you might as well do the ARP head studs and springs/retainers. You can get BC springs/retainers for like $200 shipped give or take. It'll save you money in the long run. If you're interested in HKS cams, I'm gonna swap mine out for something more aggressive. Was thinking $400 shipped for 272's with less then 500 miles on them.

 

Did you get any noticeable gains from the HKS's? How was it for daily driving?

 

Bummmmmmmp

 

You can get a used 9 turbo for ~$400 - 500. You could also get a set of Kelford, GSC, or HKS cams -- all will yield good results on an Evo 8 (evo 9 cams were better than 8s, so your gains will be better)....After cams and turbo, you'll need a tune....This will slightly go over your budget, but will put a huge smile on your face...

You could also get a Meth kit for ~$400, increase the boost, get a new tune and have a big smile...

You can get a BBK Full for ~$1600 I believe and get great power and results. You'll also want a tune with this, but maybe you can work something out with CBRD.

 

First off that is a good starting out mod list. No unecessary(sp?) mods and it looks well thought out.

Your mod list doesn't have a fuel pump. This is quite important if your raising boost pressure over stock and is a bit of insurance for other mods. Other good mods that keep a low profile are the ported/coated stock exhaust/intake manifolds.

1. Most cams with the exception of tomei/jun and other "hardcore" cams will work w/the stock valvetrain you just have to watch how much you are revving. For the record I didn't replace my springs/retainers with the cam job since the cams I installed were GSC S1s which are mild and don't have a lopey idle. The head studs I did replace however because it's easy and like the fuel pump, it's a piece of insurance so you don't have to worry about things.

2. This question will get the all powerfull answer "it depends" because you altitude/temp/conditions vary on power and dyno. You'll be able to feel it on the butt dyno fo sho. I would hold off on the 10.5 hotside and just buy a IX turbo since it already has one. There are a bunch of used FP green/20glt turbos out there since the fp red is hot stuff now. O2 housing is a good mod. Get the epm dump if you don't mind the noise.


I hope this helps.

 

+1 cams and arp would be a really good idea I don't know if i would wanna buy hks though I would get Kelford 272s They produce more power and have a better power band plus they are a little cheaper the the hks cams. Heres where I got my info
http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/tu...n_8/index.html

 

I am in the same boat. I am considering the GSC S1. They are more aggressive and should make more power than the HKS 272. To do cams you do not need to remove the head. To do ARP studs you should remove the head. If the head is out I would also do springs to make things easier.

My current plant is to add the GSC S1 and keep valve train and studs stock. I run 22~23 psi so studs are not needed for tha pressure. When I decide to pull the head to add studs (if I get a bigger turbo I will do springs at that time). Greg @ GSC told me that I do not need springs with the GSC S1 if the rev limiter is under 8K. Anyway the powerband of th S1 goes to about 500rpms so no need to push it to 8K. I will set mine at 7800rpms to be safe.

 

You don't have to remove the head to put in arp studs all you do is remove one at a time and torque it down. I had already done it this way and I know it works.

 

ARP HEAD STUDS ~$150, AMS FMIC ~$700, kelford 272/272 cams ~$600, Reflash ~$250....=~1700 , if you search har enough you'll find all this for $1500

 

lol then how would u change the cams

 

Thanks for the input guys! I do have a walbro fuel pump. I forgot to mention that in the list of mods above.

 

here found it for you but withou shipping and handling found it for ~$1350 FMIC,Cams,Head Studs