OK I'm finally fed up..
#1
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OK I'm finally fed up..
Had my car tuned 3 years ago(2006) this june for most of the boltons and alcohol by Turbo trix. One year goes by with no complaints and then suddenly one morning my car won't idle. Not sure why but the car runs fine once it's warm. No hesitation or anything for that matter. I deal with it and have to keep my foot on the gas until the car warms up.
2 years go by and I'm starting to get fed up with it. I want a car that will start on its own without any assistance. So, I looked on the forums for threads that people have responded to, looking for reasons a car would not idle. The big hit was because the meth or alchy was burning out the Idle Air Control Valve. I figured I had found the problem. Instead of going to mitsubishi to spend almost $500, I found one on the much cheaper side to replace it.
So, I replaced my 82,000 mile one with a 10,000 mile one and go to crank it up, same exact sh*t. Nothing different at all. I disconnected battery to see if it may work better, nothing. Now, keep in mind that I have replaced the spark plugs and have no boost leaks, played with the idle screw, and have been professionally tuned afterwards as well. No one has been able to help me.
Looking for any additional help or insight people can give me. I know I may have to bite the bullet and bring it to a shop to diagnose it but I'd rather try all the alternatives until they are all used. Somebody must have had the same problem, I'm hoping.
Any help is appreciated, thanks.
2 years go by and I'm starting to get fed up with it. I want a car that will start on its own without any assistance. So, I looked on the forums for threads that people have responded to, looking for reasons a car would not idle. The big hit was because the meth or alchy was burning out the Idle Air Control Valve. I figured I had found the problem. Instead of going to mitsubishi to spend almost $500, I found one on the much cheaper side to replace it.
So, I replaced my 82,000 mile one with a 10,000 mile one and go to crank it up, same exact sh*t. Nothing different at all. I disconnected battery to see if it may work better, nothing. Now, keep in mind that I have replaced the spark plugs and have no boost leaks, played with the idle screw, and have been professionally tuned afterwards as well. No one has been able to help me.
Looking for any additional help or insight people can give me. I know I may have to bite the bullet and bring it to a shop to diagnose it but I'd rather try all the alternatives until they are all used. Somebody must have had the same problem, I'm hoping.
Any help is appreciated, thanks.
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#11
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And yes it's a cone fliter.
Last edited by mrdevo; Feb 25, 2009 at 12:30 PM. Reason: .
#14
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Make sure you check your BISS screw too. We have found they degrade over time which is why we now replace them with new ones on all MIL.SPEC 65mm throttle bodies. Both the BISS screws and TB seals seem to be wear items
New one in middle, 2 BISS screws we pulled out of OEM cores on either side...
New one in middle, 2 BISS screws we pulled out of OEM cores on either side...