Are the evo 9 stock headstuds safe to 30 psi used with an fp red?
#33
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Check your fluids more, especially after a lot of hard driving. i don't see how a motor would need a rebuild from a headgasket unless you drive awhile with the gasket leaking. If you catch your fluids mixing or disappearing, or blowing blue or white smoke then buy headstuds and gasket. The car will only over heat if the oil and antifreeze mix up a lot or you are low on either.
#35
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I pushed 30psi from a pt6776 for over 7,000 miles on the stock head studs. Also on a side note I had stock valve springs and retainers w/ Cosworth 272's and revved to 8,500 the entire time too.
#36
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Stock headstuds are approaching their limit if not at, at 30psi.
Personally, if my stock headstuds are "safe" to 30 psi I would not run them. I want studs that are rated withstand Over what I'm running. It's like a factor of safety.
Get a free weekend. Drain fluids. Take off the head. Install headstuds. Reverse. This is capable for anyone to do if you have a place to do it....the most technical part of this is to torque the studs correctly. Everything else is just annoying.
Personally, if my stock headstuds are "safe" to 30 psi I would not run them. I want studs that are rated withstand Over what I'm running. It's like a factor of safety.
Get a free weekend. Drain fluids. Take off the head. Install headstuds. Reverse. This is capable for anyone to do if you have a place to do it....the most technical part of this is to torque the studs correctly. Everything else is just annoying.
#38
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If you have something to check the head is not warped then you could just reinstall.
Something that has a machined straight edge
Most of the tool trucks carry them for a pretty penny
Something that has a machined straight edge
Most of the tool trucks carry them for a pretty penny
#39
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I thought there was a set of headstuds (AMS sells) or maybe all of them can be installed without removing the head.
but personally have not done it that way myself
http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/A...mance.com.html
but personally have not done it that way myself
http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/A...mance.com.html
Last edited by Motor-Rx; Jan 21, 2010 at 10:30 PM.
#43
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true that. this should help tho.
Bolts are not good up to a certain PS. Your valve stem holds over 30 psi. What stretches studs is detonation. Headstuds should be replaced at 400 horsepower IMO, detonation at this power level is more severe than it would be if the car was stock ,therefore generating enough force to lift the head.
Tons of people do the one by one method, as long as the engine is fully cooled and the sequence is done correctly there should be no issue. If there is an issue your not looking at more work then if you would have done it the hard way out of the gate.
In your particular case I would say 30psi with the red should put you well over the power level I would want to use stock studs for. You don't even need to remove the cams to change them out, so I would just go ahead and do them.
Bolts are not good up to a certain PS. Your valve stem holds over 30 psi. What stretches studs is detonation. Headstuds should be replaced at 400 horsepower IMO, detonation at this power level is more severe than it would be if the car was stock ,therefore generating enough force to lift the head.
Tons of people do the one by one method, as long as the engine is fully cooled and the sequence is done correctly there should be no issue. If there is an issue your not looking at more work then if you would have done it the hard way out of the gate.
In your particular case I would say 30psi with the red should put you well over the power level I would want to use stock studs for. You don't even need to remove the cams to change them out, so I would just go ahead and do them.