converting my 9 to an 8 (remove mivec)
#18
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Now on topic I think some hard facts are in need for this. Me and my engine builder have been taliking about this a lot and the exact details would be great... I highly doubt it's more cost efficient to sell and buy an 8 than to just do the swap but idk yet.
#19
I agree with the comments made by most on your idea , however if you really want to remove MIVEC, just use a noraml pulley and have the intake cam made to spec so that it has no oil feeld and can fit the oil seal as the MIVEC one is slightly smaller to allow for the MIVEC cam gear to slide over it. Then remove the oil suply line to the head and plug up the block. From there you can use the stock ECU and set the mivec to 0 in the map, and adjust the cam timing via the vernier pulley.
You can also use a normal MIVEC cam and after deleting the oil feed lines, use a solid bolt to replace the current hollow one and have the cam gear made to spec. Option is yours and the latter one is less work and just as safe with a solid long cam bolt. (but you still need to torque it to the OEm spec even if its solid)
but you will loose the benefit of faster spool and better top end.
You can also use a normal MIVEC cam and after deleting the oil feed lines, use a solid bolt to replace the current hollow one and have the cam gear made to spec. Option is yours and the latter one is less work and just as safe with a solid long cam bolt. (but you still need to torque it to the OEm spec even if its solid)
but you will loose the benefit of faster spool and better top end.
#20
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I agree with the comments made by most on your idea , however if you really want to remove MIVEC, just use a noraml pulley and have the intake cam made to spec so that it has no oil feeld and can fit the oil seal as the MIVEC one is slightly smaller to allow for the MIVEC cam gear to slide over it. Then remove the oil suply line to the head and plug up the block. From there you can use the stock ECU and set the mivec to 0 in the map, and adjust the cam timing via the vernier pulley.
You can also use a normal MIVEC cam and after deleting the oil feed lines, use a solid bolt to replace the current hollow one and have the cam gear made to spec. Option is yours and the latter one is less work and just as safe with a solid long cam bolt. (but you still need to torque it to the OEm spec even if its solid)
but you will loose the benefit of faster spool and better top end.
You can also use a normal MIVEC cam and after deleting the oil feed lines, use a solid bolt to replace the current hollow one and have the cam gear made to spec. Option is yours and the latter one is less work and just as safe with a solid long cam bolt. (but you still need to torque it to the OEm spec even if its solid)
but you will loose the benefit of faster spool and better top end.
Kind of sad to have all the mivic available and not use it....
#21
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just drop in the FP cams. they worked just fine on tims car. having custom cams, gears or anything of the sort is going to cost big bucks, and then your relying on a one-off part that most likely hasn't been stress tested, FEAed, or even driven on another car to see if it works.
#22
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and why does that make me a dumbass? considering that both ams and buschur use 8s on their drag cars, yet no one calls them dumbasses for not taking advantage of the mivec.
i have yet to see a 9 cam have as aggressive lift as any 8 cam.
not to mention, the more **** the car has, the more **** thats going to brake.
i have yet to see a 9 cam have as aggressive lift as any 8 cam.
not to mention, the more **** the car has, the more **** thats going to brake.
They use them in their drag cars becuase those cars are only made to function at WOT for 9 second at a time, if that typifies the use and conditions that you are going to be driving your car in the majority of the time then go ahead..... if not, then you are goign to be giving up lots of low/mid end power and tq because your cam is fixed..
Unless you are trying to set drag records, the nine is superior in every way, heck I even think the IX head without mivec is better than the VIII's due to the cooling passages, but it might be slightly weaker.
You could also remove the driveshaft and rear diff to save weight, thats only more **** to break...
Scorke
#23
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Don't do it! People like you are the reason that VIII parts are more expensive then IX parts!
Honestly though, it sounds like a lot of work to convert to an VIII. I'm not sure if you've ever replaced a harness that runs through a firewall, but its an absolute PITA to do, not to mention all the other crap thats gotta be replaced just so you can loose power.
You had a freak accident. It doesnt happen often, and if it does happen again, I'd be willing to bet its the installer, not the parts.
Honestly though, it sounds like a lot of work to convert to an VIII. I'm not sure if you've ever replaced a harness that runs through a firewall, but its an absolute PITA to do, not to mention all the other crap thats gotta be replaced just so you can loose power.
You had a freak accident. It doesnt happen often, and if it does happen again, I'd be willing to bet its the installer, not the parts.
#24
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after having my 9 for a while, and my recent mivec cam snap, im scared to continue to run any type of mivec cam in my car, especially with my new stroker motor.
the 8s have been around alot longer, and its easier to find much larger cams for an 8 than a 9.
anyways, im having the master tech at the local mitsu dealer look thru his wiring diagrams to see if i need to swap harnasses, ecu etc etc.
he told me he thinks that you can just ignore the mivec in the wiring harness, however i may need an 8 ecu. wouldnt i be able to just tune my mivec to 0.0 across the map but wouldnt remove any of the other 9 features? therefore removing mivec completly?
thoughts?
the 8s have been around alot longer, and its easier to find much larger cams for an 8 than a 9.
anyways, im having the master tech at the local mitsu dealer look thru his wiring diagrams to see if i need to swap harnasses, ecu etc etc.
he told me he thinks that you can just ignore the mivec in the wiring harness, however i may need an 8 ecu. wouldnt i be able to just tune my mivec to 0.0 across the map but wouldnt remove any of the other 9 features? therefore removing mivec completly?
thoughts?
#26
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Wow your the dumbass, I think I speak for all of us who have had a cam break when I say we don't want to have to do another several thousand $ rebuild, we'd rather spend a little and ditch mivec and not have to worry again.. I bought a "good" set and had them prof installed by a top installer and they broke, I'm in college and can't keep affording thousands in motor builds.
Now on topic I think some hard facts are in need for this. Me and my engine builder have been taliking about this a lot and the exact details would be great... I highly doubt it's more cost efficient to sell and buy an 8 than to just do the swap but idk yet.
Now on topic I think some hard facts are in need for this. Me and my engine builder have been taliking about this a lot and the exact details would be great... I highly doubt it's more cost efficient to sell and buy an 8 than to just do the swap but idk yet.
IF you don't expect to have any problems and ever have to spend any more money on your built evo, then I feel for you. Its a neverending game and it will always be that way.
#27
decided to go with fp5rs on the 9 head... i prob woulda done it if i didnt have to disable the imobilizer..
and in the techs defence.. he didnt say, yeah its possible, he said that he would give it a look to see if it was even possible.
since when has 8 parts been more expensive than 9s?!?!?!? i must be ordering parts from all the wrong websites!
and in the techs defence.. he didnt say, yeah its possible, he said that he would give it a look to see if it was even possible.
since when has 8 parts been more expensive than 9s?!?!?!? i must be ordering parts from all the wrong websites!
#29
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The IX head is the most resistant to flexing and has the best metallurgy of all 4G63 heads. It uses small head plugs for a reason
The VIII is a 4 plug ECU harness and the IX is a 3 plug. There are some substantial changes that need to be addressed. The last 8 we converted to a 9 cost about 2500 in parts and that was a mix of used and new parts. An 8 would be a little less since some of that is MIVEC specific but still its not gonna be cheap.
The VIII is a 4 plug ECU harness and the IX is a 3 plug. There are some substantial changes that need to be addressed. The last 8 we converted to a 9 cost about 2500 in parts and that was a mix of used and new parts. An 8 would be a little less since some of that is MIVEC specific but still its not gonna be cheap.
#30
after having my 9 for a while, and my recent mivec cam snap, im scared to continue to run any type of mivec cam in my car, especially with my new stroker motor.
the 8s have been around alot longer, and its easier to find much larger cams for an 8 than a 9.
anyways, im having the master tech at the local mitsu dealer look thru his wiring diagrams to see if i need to swap harnasses, ecu etc etc.
he told me he thinks that you can just ignore the mivec in the wiring harness, however i may need an 8 ecu. wouldnt i be able to just tune my mivec to 0.0 across the map but wouldnt remove any of the other 9 features? therefore removing mivec completly?
thoughts?
the 8s have been around alot longer, and its easier to find much larger cams for an 8 than a 9.
anyways, im having the master tech at the local mitsu dealer look thru his wiring diagrams to see if i need to swap harnasses, ecu etc etc.
he told me he thinks that you can just ignore the mivec in the wiring harness, however i may need an 8 ecu. wouldnt i be able to just tune my mivec to 0.0 across the map but wouldnt remove any of the other 9 features? therefore removing mivec completly?
thoughts?