Which Engine Oil is the Best
#48
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check out the Brad Penn, true Ball Wear test conducted, it had good amount of wear almost bouble than AMSOIL, even Red Line is doing better , tells me that cheaper is not always better when you are dealing with a turbo thats 2k and an engine thats almost 4k,,, lots of dough involved to save 1$ a quart
Who did the tests...? Amsoil...of course they are going to be the best on their own test...that graph doesnt prove anything to me...
#49
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ther has been many independent labs that have conducted same and similar testing.
i understand you like and prefer Brad Penn, but remember there are a lot of innovators out there and there might be an oil comming along that migh blow AMSOIL away
#50
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yes, I would like to see that test as well...I read the whole independant test results and like Amsoil very much, but it doesn't say anywhere about which actual Valvoline oil was used in those tests.
#51
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i reccomend for you to give AMSOIL tech services a call and do some of the homework for your self, the reason i say this is because sometimes when a person finds out info for himself he understands better than me sitting behind this computer feeding you info..
with that being said if you have any questions dont hesitate to contact me or AMSOIL we have open lines waiting for phone calls like yours
again thepoint of this test was to test all racing oils in the same category.
AMSOIL has done the same type of ball wear test with all the other oil flavors.
#52
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I use Mobil 1 10W30 all the time. Here's an oil analysis I just got of my last oil change of 3600 miles and 10 autocross events. Everything seems perfectly fine, if not better than the average 4G63 engine. Does Amsoil oil cost much cheaper, cuz if not, I'll just stick to what works.
Here's an explanation of what each metal/mineral count is, from their website:
Aluminum: Pistons, bearings, cases (heads & blocks).
Chromium: Rings, a trace element in steel.
Iron: Cylinders, rotating shafts, the valve train, and any steel part sharing the oil.
Copper: Brass or bronze parts, copper bushings, bearings, oil coolers, also an additive in some gasoline engine oils.
Lead: Bearings.
Tin: Bearings, bronze parts, piston coatings.
Molybdenum: Anti-wear additive, coating on some new rings (washes off as break-in occurs).
Nickel: Trace element in steel.
Manganese: Trace element, additive in gasoline.
Silver: Trace element.
Titanium: Trace element.
Potassium: Antifreeze inhibitor, additive in some oil types.
Boron: Detergent/dispersant additive, antifreeze inhibitors.
Silicon: Airborne dirt, sealers, gaskets, antifreeze inhibitors.
Sodium: Antifreeze inhibitors, additive in some gasoline engine oils.
Calcium: Detergent/dispersant additive.
Magnesium: Detergent/dispersant additive.
Phosphorus: Anti-wear additive.
Zinc: Anti-wear additive.
Barium: Detergent/dispersant additive.
Here's an explanation of what each metal/mineral count is, from their website:
Aluminum: Pistons, bearings, cases (heads & blocks).
Chromium: Rings, a trace element in steel.
Iron: Cylinders, rotating shafts, the valve train, and any steel part sharing the oil.
Copper: Brass or bronze parts, copper bushings, bearings, oil coolers, also an additive in some gasoline engine oils.
Lead: Bearings.
Tin: Bearings, bronze parts, piston coatings.
Molybdenum: Anti-wear additive, coating on some new rings (washes off as break-in occurs).
Nickel: Trace element in steel.
Manganese: Trace element, additive in gasoline.
Silver: Trace element.
Titanium: Trace element.
Potassium: Antifreeze inhibitor, additive in some oil types.
Boron: Detergent/dispersant additive, antifreeze inhibitors.
Silicon: Airborne dirt, sealers, gaskets, antifreeze inhibitors.
Sodium: Antifreeze inhibitors, additive in some gasoline engine oils.
Calcium: Detergent/dispersant additive.
Magnesium: Detergent/dispersant additive.
Phosphorus: Anti-wear additive.
Zinc: Anti-wear additive.
Barium: Detergent/dispersant additive.
#53
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29.99$ for a 5qt plus filter from mobile 1. 10-30
thats a good oil change
im afriad to switch to new stuff, i havent had any problems.
im not saying amsoil is not good, im pretty sure you guys are up there.
thats a good oil change
im afriad to switch to new stuff, i havent had any problems.
im not saying amsoil is not good, im pretty sure you guys are up there.
Last edited by Clutchdc5; Apr 26, 2009 at 07:04 PM.
#54
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Mobil 1 is supposedly a synthetic motor oil. Mobil Oil Co. makes other, non-synthetic dinosaur oils and may make some semi-synthetic blends as well. But, Mobil 1 is synthetic.
Now the word "synthetic" is open to interpretation. Someone else in this thread mentioned the distinction between, "100% synthetic", and, "fully synthetic".
Recently Mobil Oil Co changed the formula used for refining Mobil1 oil. Some experts claim that this change in formula was a cost-cutting move and that in fact Mobil 1 oil is no longer a true synthetic.
Maybe someone else knows the details as it is obviously way beyond my understanding.
Now the word "synthetic" is open to interpretation. Someone else in this thread mentioned the distinction between, "100% synthetic", and, "fully synthetic".
Recently Mobil Oil Co changed the formula used for refining Mobil1 oil. Some experts claim that this change in formula was a cost-cutting move and that in fact Mobil 1 oil is no longer a true synthetic.
Maybe someone else knows the details as it is obviously way beyond my understanding.
#55
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When actual ASTM Tests are done, the human hand cannot be involved.
apagan01 is absolutely correct.. These are undeniable facts. AMSOIL Lists there competition by Name. If these tests results were not correct, AMSOIL would have been sued out of business many years ago.
Mobil 1 is supposedly a synthetic motor oil. Mobil Oil Co. makes other, non-synthetic dinosaur oils and may make some semi-synthetic blends as well. But, Mobil 1 is synthetic.
Now the word "synthetic" is open to interpretation. Someone else in this thread mentioned the distinction between, "100% synthetic", and, "fully synthetic".
Recently Mobil Oil Co changed the formula used for refining Mobil1 oil. Some experts claim that this change in formula was a cost-cutting move and that in fact Mobil 1 oil is no longer a true synthetic.
Maybe someone else knows the details as it is obviously way beyond my understanding.
Now the word "synthetic" is open to interpretation. Someone else in this thread mentioned the distinction between, "100% synthetic", and, "fully synthetic".
Recently Mobil Oil Co changed the formula used for refining Mobil1 oil. Some experts claim that this change in formula was a cost-cutting move and that in fact Mobil 1 oil is no longer a true synthetic.
Maybe someone else knows the details as it is obviously way beyond my understanding.
The only Mobil 1 PAO Based oil may just be there Racing 4T which is a Motorcycle oil.
#58
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The test you are referring to is a Gear Lube Test and not recognized in legitimate oil tests. A false version of this test was used on TV by many additive companies.
The problem with those additives is that they are EP additives and most will actually degrade the oil in a short period of time.
The 4-Ball was designed by Shell years ago and the ASTM has 2 versions to go by, D-4172 and D-4172B.
.
#59
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I guess we will have to agree to disagree on legitimacy issuse. I think some of the addative companies have something still.
Question : How much shorter, does EP make the oil interval last ?
Don't you believe that oil film strength plays an important role in the protection of engine parts, bearings ect... It seems pretty logical, that one would like to keep metal touching to a minimum. And if it does, will ones oil better protect prior to actual metal contact. I maintain, I'd like to see D-3233. Does Amsoil have the D-3233 for their MTG ?
Something I was just noticing. How about a 4 ball wear test with lower weight oils. 20W-50 is not what the average guy/girl runs in their car. ...and with light weight oils proving themselves more, and more reliable, it seems likely that oils will get thinner with better protection.
Question : How much shorter, does EP make the oil interval last ?
Don't you believe that oil film strength plays an important role in the protection of engine parts, bearings ect... It seems pretty logical, that one would like to keep metal touching to a minimum. And if it does, will ones oil better protect prior to actual metal contact. I maintain, I'd like to see D-3233. Does Amsoil have the D-3233 for their MTG ?
Something I was just noticing. How about a 4 ball wear test with lower weight oils. 20W-50 is not what the average guy/girl runs in their car. ...and with light weight oils proving themselves more, and more reliable, it seems likely that oils will get thinner with better protection.
Last edited by SWOLN; Apr 28, 2009 at 08:22 AM.
#60
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I have run over 600,000 miles testing many different oils and filters . Mobil 1 is a good oil and will run clean for a limited time but no oil other than Amsoil I repeat Amsoil will run clean longer and provide more protection. The EA filters and oil can't be beat period. believe what you want but Amsoil is the real deal.
Last edited by PlanoEvo; Apr 28, 2009 at 09:05 PM.