Best Twin Disc Clutch?
Sep 23, 2009, 05:19 AM
#166
The noise and drivability of the QM are crap as compared to the SPEC, so that is like comparing apples and oranges.
I'm having no shifting issues. But then again, I'm not driving a tranny with high mileage and worn syncros. Also, tranny fluid may influence the picture.
I'm having no shifting issues. But then again, I'm not driving a tranny with high mileage and worn syncros. Also, tranny fluid may influence the picture.
Sep 23, 2009, 05:30 AM
#167
Spec01 / Ted / Others -- If I am targeting ~500 whp and ~400 - 450 ft-lbs (wheel) peak tq, do I really need the twin disc setup? (I am currently probably only @~375 whp and 350 wtq, but am moving to a larger turbo...) Also, I would love to hear a response on weight and high RPM shifting issues....
Sep 23, 2009, 05:44 AM
#168
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If the noise a the QM clutch makes bother you... There is clearly something wrong with you, seeing how its not even that bad first off... and the New Throw out bearing /new clutch style isn't like the ones were drivability was somewhat difficult, new ones make clutch drive like stock in my opinion....
And yes if your targeting 500 awhp and 450+ tq you need a twin plate
And yes if your targeting 500 awhp and 450+ tq you need a twin plate
Last edited by 1NastyMR; Sep 23, 2009 at 05:51 AM.
Sep 23, 2009, 06:25 AM
#170
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Actually the new style QM TB does have something to do with drivablity as were I have the old one... I know how mine is way harder to drive compared to the new style I've driven in quite a few cars that have it and I'm going to get the new style myself.
How new is this Spec clutch as I have never read anything about it nor seen any threads on it, What company even recommends or sells SPEC??
How new is this Spec clutch as I have never read anything about it nor seen any threads on it, What company even recommends or sells SPEC??
Sep 23, 2009, 07:14 AM
#171
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It never ceases to amaze me when assumption and missinformation are provided as fact. I have a number of customers that are shifting at over 8K without issue. The car on which this kit was initially developed is shifting at 8500 RPM.
If you want "light" then for the Evo8/9 we currently offer a Mini-Twin that has a very low inertia and thus shifts even better than the Super-Twin. Of course the thing to remember is that not everyone needs a Twin-Disc clutch. Don;t get me wrong, we sell tons of them, but I suggest taking a look at our single-disc offerings before deciding to go "Twin". These kits are also more than able to keep up with high RPM.
As for the request for Aluminum Carriers/Backing Plates...it's a good idea in thoery but one must remember that Aluminum has a greater tendency to deform with heat and that it also would be more greatly impacted by shock and vibration than steel. As mentioned above the Mini-Twin is available for the Evo8/9 as we speak. In truth, if you wanted to lighten the Super-Twin's inertia then you could opt for two rigid discs and even a lesser number of pucks to cut weight further. Though this hasn't been something we have seen mu request for it is worth noting as an available option!
We have also been working on our Carbon-Carbon products as well and without giving too much away things are progressing nicely. I am sure that there will be great demand for this kit when it is made available!
If you want "light" then for the Evo8/9 we currently offer a Mini-Twin that has a very low inertia and thus shifts even better than the Super-Twin. Of course the thing to remember is that not everyone needs a Twin-Disc clutch. Don;t get me wrong, we sell tons of them, but I suggest taking a look at our single-disc offerings before deciding to go "Twin". These kits are also more than able to keep up with high RPM.
As for the request for Aluminum Carriers/Backing Plates...it's a good idea in thoery but one must remember that Aluminum has a greater tendency to deform with heat and that it also would be more greatly impacted by shock and vibration than steel. As mentioned above the Mini-Twin is available for the Evo8/9 as we speak. In truth, if you wanted to lighten the Super-Twin's inertia then you could opt for two rigid discs and even a lesser number of pucks to cut weight further. Though this hasn't been something we have seen mu request for it is worth noting as an available option!
We have also been working on our Carbon-Carbon products as well and without giving too much away things are progressing nicely. I am sure that there will be great demand for this kit when it is made available!
Sep 23, 2009, 07:20 AM
#172
I have just installed my spec super twin P trim, initial bleeding was not as difficult as I thought it would be... The pedal feel is some what soft, almost stock like. At first I thought something was wrong, since I have been so used to using my ACT hdss and countless 2600 and 2900 ACT clutches in Dsms.
However I have not driven my car because I am still breaking it in on jack stands. The spec clutch looks very promising at this point in time for me .
However I have not driven my car because I am still breaking it in on jack stands. The spec clutch looks very promising at this point in time for me .
Sep 23, 2009, 07:23 AM
#173
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Nasty, we have been manufacturing clutches for nearly 20 years now and have a great deal of experience as a result. Our Super-Twin offerings have been available for a number applications for over 3 years. The Evo Mini-Twin has been available for almost 3 years and the Evo Super-Twins have been on offer for about a year and a half. Your disagreement with TedB has nothing to do with our product...though it seems that you are attempting to negate our offerings. If you have any questions about our products your are welcome to contact me directly and I will be happy to assist you. Thanks!
Sep 23, 2009, 07:25 AM
#174
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Antilag, we don't require that the clutch be broken in on jack-stands. I am unsure why you are using this method as there is no tru load applied to the unit without the wheels touching the ground. I suggest that you follow our recommended break-in procedure which suggests 500 miles of city driving (no crazy launches or excessive abuse-just drive like a normal person and shift as much as possible). I am glad that you are pleased thus far but get out there and drive that thing and let us know your thoughts! Thanks!
Sep 23, 2009, 07:28 AM
#175
Spec--- I am not breaking in the clutch on jack stands.. I have just installed a fresh motor and trans set up.. so the car has only been alive for 22 minutes.. It is how I break in a motor.. Today I will be driving it around the block . One thing that would like to know is how far do you suggest adjusting the master cylinder rod.
I know you said that it takes 3/8" to fully release the clutches. so what does this normally correspond to an ajustment at the MC rod.
I know you said that it takes 3/8" to fully release the clutches. so what does this normally correspond to an ajustment at the MC rod.
Sep 23, 2009, 07:56 AM
#176
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As a general rule you should need to adjust the rod for more throw but since every car is a bit different and every Master Cylinder is slightly different there is no way for me to tell you that you will need to leave 1 or 2 or 5 threads out. I suggest threading it out rather far initially and then backing off as needed based on the response you see. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,
Sep 23, 2009, 08:53 AM
#180
It never ceases to amaze me when assumption and missinformation are provided as fact. I have a number of customers that are shifting at over 8K without issue. The car on which this kit was initially developed is shifting at 8500 RPM.
If you want "light" then for the Evo8/9 we currently offer a Mini-Twin that has a very low inertia and thus shifts even better than the Super-Twin. Of course the thing to remember is that not everyone needs a Twin-Disc clutch. Don;t get me wrong, we sell tons of them, but I suggest taking a look at our single-disc offerings before deciding to go "Twin". These kits are also more than able to keep up with high RPM.
As for the request for Aluminum Carriers/Backing Plates...it's a good idea in thoery but one must remember that Aluminum has a greater tendency to deform with heat and that it also would be more greatly impacted by shock and vibration than steel. As mentioned above the Mini-Twin is available for the Evo8/9 as we speak. In truth, if you wanted to lighten the Super-Twin's inertia then you could opt for two rigid discs and even a lesser number of pucks to cut weight further. Though this hasn't been something we have seen mu request for it is worth noting as an available option!
We have also been working on our Carbon-Carbon products as well and without giving too much away things are progressing nicely. I am sure that there will be great demand for this kit when it is made available!
If you want "light" then for the Evo8/9 we currently offer a Mini-Twin that has a very low inertia and thus shifts even better than the Super-Twin. Of course the thing to remember is that not everyone needs a Twin-Disc clutch. Don;t get me wrong, we sell tons of them, but I suggest taking a look at our single-disc offerings before deciding to go "Twin". These kits are also more than able to keep up with high RPM.
As for the request for Aluminum Carriers/Backing Plates...it's a good idea in thoery but one must remember that Aluminum has a greater tendency to deform with heat and that it also would be more greatly impacted by shock and vibration than steel. As mentioned above the Mini-Twin is available for the Evo8/9 as we speak. In truth, if you wanted to lighten the Super-Twin's inertia then you could opt for two rigid discs and even a lesser number of pucks to cut weight further. Though this hasn't been something we have seen mu request for it is worth noting as an available option!
We have also been working on our Carbon-Carbon products as well and without giving too much away things are progressing nicely. I am sure that there will be great demand for this kit when it is made available!
I think I know more about clutches than anyone on this board. mostly because I have tried just about every clutch on the market and I am always on the search of the absolute best clutch on the market. Without going into a 20000 word essay on the subject the spec clutch is the best twin on the market for most people. The ones its not best for are the die hard drag enthusiast. These people shift their car very fast, NLTS, and at very high RPM. their goal is to squeeze every last hundredth at the track. I have driven RYU car (spec twin SST) and have been passenger as he drives. I also build transmissions and know thoroughly how they operate, and how they deteriorate when driven hard. I build and drive devastating fast 4G63 as well. The clutch shifts wonderful for the most part. Most people simply do not drive like he does and simply would not experience the lock out like he is. I was only able to produce a very slight scratch with my high RPM shifting the car. The clutch is absolutely wonderful for daily driver. Read TEDs advice over and over because he is correct. it blows away all the other twins on the market as an enjoyable to drive daily.
clutch design is very give and take. you cant have your cake and eat it to when it comes to clutches. you have to pick which clutch fault you can live with. the spec twin uses heavy discs that are designed to drive smooth, last long, and hold massive torque. their drawback is they are on the heavy side for high RPM shifting.
Spec, there are some of your competitors using billet aluminum for discs and they are having great success with it. yes it may warp easier than steal but it sheds heat much faster than steel. It most definitely shifts better at high RPM. Take or leave my feed back. I am trying to be helpful here.