TTP Engineering

iTrader: (465)

We are working with Jeremy to get RyuEvoIX's clutch shifting as is was designed to. Just waiting on a heim joint and the upgraded Tilton master cylinder will be going in. Stay tuned.

We might even use a Spec in our own shop car. Who knows?

SPECJUNK

iTrader: (1)

why would you buy a clutch kit.....then have to buy additional parts, that you know nothing about before the initial purchase. when i make something a kit.....it is a kit, no additional hidden parts necessary. but i hope you have better luck with that stuff than i did. and i tried that crap 3 times before giving up.

TTP Engineering

iTrader: (465)

We will give it the benefit of the doubt and remove all questionable contributing factors. We're fairly confident that new master will solve any issues and this information will be used to help others in the future.

T51R SPL BB

SPEC was telling us that we might have installed the discs backwards? Discs were installed in the right directions. One on the flywheel side and the other facing the pressure plate. Also it was very clear as the discs had a clear sticker on them telling us where they should face.

We bled the car the way Spec have told us to. Also the guys at the garage have been installing lots of Quartermaster clutchs on evos and they have the same push style with the same exact TOB with no issues, and they require the same bleeding process .

Jeremy said i should change my MC, and spend more money because his product does not work. I don't understand why i have to do all that, and my evo was working and shifting perfectly the day before we put his product on my car.

Mitsubishi dealer here in Texas installed a brand new tranny on my car back in March/09 under the warrenty, and i had a brand new factory clutch there and everything was perfect and shifted like butter at all RPMs.

Now i'm worried that my brand new tranny is getting hurt and messing the syncros because of this clutch.

Also we found out that there was no screw holes in my 6spd tranny housing to mount the TOB, so according to Jeremy and his team, they told us to use a RTV to secure the TOB in place.

linuxman51

iTrader: (7)

Why would you know, you want to do supporting mods? I mean cams by themselves are the bomb dizzle, right? You shouldn't, you know, have to get your car tuned after the fact they should just work. Same with turbo upgrades. Bigger injectors? this is preposterous, who would sell such a kit?!

Hell the oem MC doesn't last forever and you're arguing over what is probably a $55 part.. I've seen the kind of stupid crap the average evo owner wastes their money on (hold on, lemme get another set of pills for the stock BCS dawg, screw an MBC and screw an EBC, I got this shiznit on LOCKDOWN).

Pick something else to complain about, oh and you might what to tell AMS that their turbo kits suck because they don't you know, include a tune and injectors and rods and pistons..

SPECJUNK

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=linuxman51;7538353]Why would you know, you want to do supporting mods? I mean cams by themselves are the bomb dizzle, right? You shouldn't, you know, have to get your car tuned after the fact they should just work. Same with turbo upgrades. Bigger injectors? this is preposterous, who would sell such a kit?!

Hell the oem MC doesn't last forever and you're arguing over what is probably a $55 part.. I've seen the kind of stupid crap the average evo owner wastes their money on (hold on, lemme get another set of pills for the stock BCS dawg, screw an MBC and screw an EBC, I got this shiznit on LOCKDOWN).

Pick something else to complain about, oh and you might what to tell AMS that their turbo kits suck because they don't you know, include a tune and injectors and rods and pistons.. [/QUOTE

no, the same scenario is if you buy a turbo kit and it is missing something stupid like clamps for the couplers , that is a cheap part, that if it ensures the ability to work and function 100% properly....but now you have this awesome part on your car and it doesn't work, because you make over 4psi and the couplers blow off. it is a given that a tune would be necessary with any modification to the engine. but when i bought my clutch i asked directly about this master cylinder, because i saw it on danny's car.....it is a civic. i was told that in the honda applications you need this to displace enough fluid to make the clutch shift quickly, and it would be nice to have.......but not necessary on the evo. "we've done a ton of these things and never had an issue."

SPEC-01

I want to make two things clear here...The units are designed to work with the OE hydraulics but if your OE hydraulics are weak as a result of wear and heat then they may need to be replaced. It is also imperative that the master be adjusted to insure that the bearing (via the slave cylinder) is extended enough to fully release the clutch. This is not a deficency with the part...in fact I know of many Mitsu dealers that perform this adjustment when installing a new stock clutch.

T51R, I have offered to issue an RMA to examine your parts (this was done very early on in the process). As for the possibility for the discs to be installed incorrectly I wouldn't suggest this as a potential cause if it hadn't happened before. As for the TOB/Concentric Slave, on 6-speed cars RTV is used to center the unit in the bell. It is of course fitted over the shaft and as most that have examined the inside of the 6-speed bell-housing will know there are no bolt holes present in the bottom of the bell so bolts can't be used.

This means that there are no recepticles for any bolts even if we provided them. This part was also test fit inhouse and this is why I am able to provide the info I do relative to fitment. The info provided to you and your installer were correct. If you would like to have us check the unit for issues I am still more than happy to assist you with an RMA. Just let me know.

On 5-speed cars there are already bolt-holes present and these units come with the bolts needed to fit the new TOB/Concentric Slave.

As for the reference to our experience and the amount of years we have been in business this was a reply to your continued assertion that there was an inherent problem with the parts...though you have thus far been unwilling to send them back to us for assessment. I understand that you have confidence in the installer that you have worked with but I think its fair that I be able to have confidence in the parts we produce too! If you send the unit back to us and we find that there is an issue (with manufacturing and materials) it will be repaired or replaced under warranty.

Fuct, as mentioned above having a properly functioning hydraulic system is required. Of all the Evo Super-Twins currently in use only one person has needed to try something different (Ryu). I have been talking with both he and TTP about this and I am sure that they will keep us updated as this progresses.

In regards to Danny's car (the civic) it is using a completely different part that isn't even a Super-Twin. I certainly appreciate the reference but the parts aren't the same. No harm no foul I just believe that it's important for folks to have a greater point of reference for the parts and the application!

Please let me know if you all have any further questions and I will be happy to assist you.

linuxman51

iTrader: (7)

And so you believe that they are lying about it now? (and actually on that topic, my AMS turbo kit came with some lame *** worm-gear clamps that even AMS recommends you replace with t-bolt clamps. on a $5k turbo setup) Or that they should include extra hardware that *might* be needed?

At some point its up to the end user.. I have not had any problems that I would call significant that I can 100% say is the fault of an undersized MC. And again, you're talking about a $50-$70 part that *might* be needed... So lets look at this another way (because I asked and pestered and bothered the sales guys at spec about this *exact* issue before I committed to buying the clutch).. They include the 3/4 or 5/8 MC with the kit and the instructions will now include 'you need to set this up with a pedal stop so you don't blow the end out of the throwout bearing'. Which was exactly what they told me would happen. They also mentioned that I might need a bigger MC but they had not yet had the issue (on TedB's car, on Walker's car, and no one else at the time I bought my clutch) on other customer cars. But lets say they include this part, look around at the average idiot driving these cars, I used to think volvo people were mechanically inept, but some of the stuff that passes for the norm around here is shocking....They're going to end up with 50 people pissed off after they put this clutch in the car, installed the bigger MC because 'hey everyone is doing it and it came with the kit' and not getting stuff setup correctly and now they've got to pull the transmission out to replace the throwout bearing they blew up. "Man spec sucks they build a crap kit who would sell something like this how can this happen my BABY is broken".

I don't buy it. if I end up having to get a bigger mc, wilwood.com is a click away and they cost $58. Add in the price for the spec unit (which is around the unpublished price for the exedy mm2200hd) and you're still getting away way cheap. Why not jump on exedy for failing to include a throwout bearing period with their kits? Or the waveloc issue? both of those would be far and away more aggravating than the 5 minutes it takes to bleed the clutch and adjust the pedal.

SPECJUNK

iTrader: (1)

oooooh, i see it now.

antilag_200

iTrader: (49)

linuxmann^

The debate is in regards to what is the best twin disc out there. The answer to this question is soley based on what the end use of the clutch will be... We can all agree on that.

My intial impression of the spec clutch, was
1) quality construction
2) the lack of chatter/clatter
3) price
4) the ability to last longer than 3 thousand miles
5) the push conversion.

Couple the above points with price and you have a clutch IMHO is very appealing.

For the AVERAGE evo owner such as myself... that DD a 35r car, this seems like a sound decision. Am I going to be shifting at 9k after I take off from each stop light ? NO... so if people are having issues with "lock out" I seriously think that their adjustments are off.

I ran into this situation yesterday, if the adjustment rod was over extended.. I could not get the car in gear. That is why I am going to reiterate this ... MAKE SURE YOUR SYSTEM IS BLEED AND ADJUSTED PROPERLY.

If a larger MC is needed. put me on the list so that I can investigate it, however with my 30 minutes of use with this clutch, I really do not see a reason why a larger MC is required

my 0.02 cents

linuxman51

iTrader: (7)

No doubt. I'm not trying to sell this thing to everyone (or well if I do, I wanna slice of that pie ), and I'm not really trying to get in a shouting match about something that in the end, is entirely subjective, on almost all points.

Bottom line, get what you feel is right for you (the collective you). I can tell you that when I was considering clutches I looked at several different multiplates, and the main reason for that was DD-ability and pedal effort. I've had super high clamp single disc clutches in the past (they don't tend to last very long under abuse in MY experience, and again that could just be me sucking at driving). the front runner initially was exedy, not due in any small part to every one having them and generally being a well regarded unit as such.. except that I started reading more about throwout bearing retainer clips breaking or throwout bearings poping out, wierd crap like that that *I* personally do not have the time, but mainly the patience, to deal with.

Then I started looking at tiltons and any 'push' style multi disc unit really.. but the popular ones are the tiltons (mixed reviews for daily driving and a short reported service life... price was by far the best but I have no desire to yank the trans every 10-12k but at the track they seem to rock ), the ams-exedy push conversion is ridiculously overpriced (in *my* opinion), so that brought me back to the spec offerings. I happen to know Walker, called him and asked him about it, talked to him for a while about his car and what he uses it for; my best friend has a 2jz swapped nissan with basically the exact same clutch (except the bolt pattern for the crank and splines on the input shaft), and it wasn't bad, so I went ahead and took the plunge.

Its as simple as that. I pestered the hell out of the sales staff at spec before I bought it, I wanted to know what kind of service life I could expect (I got a diplomatic "it depends on how much of an ******* you drive like" answer ), made the guy pull up the complaints, asked about rebuild cost, anything I might run into (And then brought up the MC issue). These are things at the time you couldn't read about on the forum, it had only been brought up maybe once by walker. That doesn't make my opinion any better or worse than anyone else, I got what I wanted to get, other people do their own thing.

Bottom line is this: with 95,000 miles on the car, oem trans, tcase, axles, brake and clutch MC's, all that junk, it daily drives like stock, and does not slip when I drop the hammer. So it has, for the reasons I purchased it, been absolutely perfect. It might never be the fastest shifting setup, I can live with that, out of the 95,000 miles, maybe 15 of them have been at the dragstrip. I prefer to drive my evo rather than constantly work on it for whatever little reason. I have a broke *** volvo when I feel the need to get dirty

dubbleugly01

iTrader: (24)

I've had my P trim in now for about 300 miles. It shifted fine straight out of the box. Did not require much peddle adjustment at all. In my opinion, the P trim is quite a bit more "grabby" than I was expecting after reading numerous threads here, and does not slip like stock, or have the smooth easy pull away from a complete stop like stock does. It is a quiet clutch, it does shift really well once moving, it's just that starting from a complete stop is not as well mannered as I was expecting.

SPEC-01

Dubb, as the unit seats the engagement should improve a bit. Also keep in mind that being a bit quicker off the pedal can in fact improve the smoothness for engagement too. Sometimes folks will drag threir foot during engagement in an effort to "be as smooth as possible" but this will actually be counterproductive. Keep me posted as you complete break-in and let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!

Taimur

iTrader: (5)

All this confusion and negative feedback about the spec has totally turned me off it. Now I'm really curious about the Tilton Twin Cera-metallic. I've been hearing good stuff about this. Can you provide more feedback on this. How many miles, noise, easy of driving?

SPEC-01

Taimur, I am not sure what you mean by "All this confusion and negative feedback". Thus far we have three people that indicate they have had an issue. One has adjusted his master and the problem is gone. Another is trying an upgraded Master (though this isn't required nor has it been needed by others). The third has been offered an RMA# to send the unit back for further assessment.

I understand that having lots of feed back can be a bit overwhelming on occasion but considering the number of units in use that are working perfectly fine I don't beleive that you can call what's seen here a ton of negative feedback. You are certainly entitled to have your own opinion but I want to make sure that you understand that this is not widespread. If you or any other have any questions about this I will be happy to assist you. Thanks!