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POS wedge collar

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Old Apr 25, 2009 | 02:10 PM
  #1  
dtuned's Avatar
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POS wedge collar

Not a matter of removing it, but a matter of getting it to snap back in after installation. Not crooked or damaged. Just won't snap back into place. Yes, i did a search here and every other place. No joy.

I don't want to undo 19 hours of straight work by myself to see why it won't snap back in, but if that is the case, so be it. Anyone who had this problem, I would like to know if there is an alternative without having to remove the transmission.

Exedy designers of the wedge collar and the jack-o-napes at Mitsu who bought into this POS need to have wedge collars inserted in they rectum.
Old Apr 26, 2009 | 02:57 AM
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It's a new day. Please help. Thank you.
Old Apr 26, 2009 | 10:01 AM
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Something must not be lined up. It is pretty easy to push on the fork and get it to snap into place. Good luck.
Old Apr 26, 2009 | 11:29 AM
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Yup^^
Old Apr 26, 2009 | 12:33 PM
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either it's not lined up or the retainer on the PP is damaged.
Old Apr 26, 2009 | 12:44 PM
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This is why I recommend removing the engine and transmission together as one unit, then re-assembling the two while they are both outside of the car (in case something doesn't go right). Its so much easier to do this.
Old Apr 26, 2009 | 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by sonicnofadz
This is why I recommend removing the engine and transmission together as one unit, then re-assembling the two while they are both outside of the car (in case something doesn't go right). Its so much easier to do this.
He's right unfortunately. Once you have the trans out, you pretty much have the motor out minus a couple things like half a wiring harness and some other misc stuff.
Old Apr 26, 2009 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by sonicnofadz
This is why I recommend removing the engine and transmission together as one unit, then re-assembling the two while they are both outside of the car (in case something doesn't go right). Its so much easier to do this.
That's exactly what I plan to do. I've einsteined it out after the 19 hours of removing and reinstalling. I can drop the whole engine/transmission/TC in 30 minutes as a complete unit. The rear subframe must also be taken down with the rest, of course. The steering rack dilemma is actually moot. It is easy to disconnect and goes back up nicely without any hang-ups.

As far as that wedge POS, wish me luck. Thanks.
Old Apr 26, 2009 | 01:09 PM
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you can drop the motor with out taking out the sub frame. I actually dropped mine as one complete unit. Engine, Trans, TC all as one out the bottom and through the front.
Old Apr 26, 2009 | 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by epson1
He's right unfortunately. Once you have the trans out, you pretty much have the motor out minus a couple things like half a wiring harness and some other misc stuff.
I came to that conclusion after the first removal and re-install. The EVO layout is really nice and there isn't anything that can bind up like in other cars I have worked with.

I suppose I could take pics of the process and eradicate fears about doing such a thing.
Old Apr 26, 2009 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by epson1
you can drop the motor with out taking out the sub frame. I actually dropped mine as one complete unit. Engine, Trans, TC all as one out the bottom and through the front.
That's true, but I would have to put the car up at an angle just so that the pinion gear neck clears the subframe. The car is still on jackstands. I am gonna have to raise it up all around just so I have plenty of room to manuever and work. I got some cheap skateboards I modded as trolleys so that I can just push out and push in
Old Apr 26, 2009 | 01:15 PM
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When I did my motor swap, I dropped the trans first to get an idea of what was involved in doing a clutch job, then when I put the new engine in I bolted the engine and trans together first, then slid them under the car and hoisted them up together. Doing them together is definitely easier and faster. I also left the t-case tied up in the engine bay, no need to drop it with the rest.
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