TurboTylerIX

iTrader: (2)

Has anyone used these to do their valve springs. I dont see why it wouldnt work but just want to make sure. I dont want to tear apart my motor and not be able to complete the job.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
OR
http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=577
VIDEOS
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLfU0Cg47L4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3i0Zz...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZFTae...eature=related

ant_turbo

iTrader: (8)

You need springs and cams installed??? I have a cheap installer,, PM ME,,

MasterNater

iTrader: (82)

I tried one of those tools. It worked fine for removing the valve keepers and springs, but I couldn't get it to work worth a damn for re-installation. I know people claim they work, but not for me.

I bought this tool instead, and it worked perfectly...

Link: http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?P...D&ProdID=37812

Write-Up: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...r-install.html

TurboTylerIX

iTrader: (2)

Dang!! What was it about the reinstall that you couldnt get to work? I really didnt want to have to buy a $100 tool that looks harder to setup/use.

MasterNater

iTrader: (82)

Well, with the upgraded valve springs being so much stiffer, it was damn near impossible to get enough leverage and compress the spring enough to seat the keepers. However, I was trying to do this with the head off and I didn't have a way of securing it to the bench. If you try it with the head still on the car, even though you shouldn't, it may be easier since the head won't move around on you.

Also, I found it difficult to get the bulky tool, like the ones you were looking at, centered on the valve springs. This is because of the way the valve springs sit right next to the area of the head that the cam bearing caps bolt to. It's kinda hard to explain, but hopefully you understand.

I didn't want to spend $100 on a tool either, but that's the price you have to pay for specialty tools. Cost for Convenience.

dsmfan95

iTrader: (27)

How come you shouldn't install springs with the head on the car?

TurboTylerIX

iTrader: (2)

since you took the head off the car, couldnt you have used a standard valve spring compressor? i thought the whole idea of the one you used was so that you could do springs with head on car.....
did you ever try hitting it with a soft hammer like they say you can do? I will try to avoid that at all costs, but will try if i have to.
i have seen pictures of the head so i can see what you mean about the cam bearing area getting in the way possibly, but if you watch those videos, it looks almost the same on one of those heads he uses it on.

unless someone comes on here and guarantees me it will work i am going to have to buy that Schley tool that you used just so i have it as backup. Ill just return it if I dont end up needing it....

MasterNater

iTrader: (82)

I'm sorry, I should rephrase what I said earlier about not doing this with the head on. I was thinking off headstuds. When I did headstuds, cams and valve springs, I took the head off and did everything at once. I suppose there's no reason to remove the head when doing just valve springs. Sorry for the confusion.

I did try to hit the valve keeper tool with a hammer. But again, the upgraded springs were so stiff, it would have taken a hell of a smack to get them to move. I really can't imagine trying to use one of those cheaper tools on the intake side with the head still on the car. The angle and close proximity to the firewall would definitely work against you. I'm pretty sure a standard c-clamp style valve spring compressor wouldn't work either because of the way the valve springs sit down in the head on overhead cam setups. There's just not enough clearance for the tool. Man, this stuffs hard to explain through typing...

This is just my personal experience. I made the mistake of buying a cheaper $35 tool exactly like the one you listed from Snap-On. Then I shelled out another $100 for a tool that actually worked for me. Of course, I wish I wouldn't have wasted my time with the cheaper tool to begin with. I'm a do-it-yourself guy. Even though the Schley tool cost me $100, I now have a tool I can use on just about any overhead cam setup in the future.

Lazyfong

iTrader: (24)

This seems like a better and safer tool to use.

http://www.euroexportinc.com/product...ducts_id=44428

TurboTylerIX

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for your input, i appreciate it. i had already ordered the tool from snap-on, but when it comes in i will just ship it back and not even attempt to use it. from your explanation i can see where it would be next to impossible to do the intake side with the head still on. I am going to get either the Schley tool that you used or the one in post #9 from euroxportinc.com. The one below looks nice, i like how when it is compressed you have both hands free to work with the keepers, thats a definate plus. also, its less expensive... thanks Lazyfong

linuxman51

iTrader: (7)

I use the same tool on my volvo stuff, works great. with the head on the workbench, it does help if you anchor/clamp the head down, I've had a couple of mine try and walk away from me mid-compression

MasterNater

iTrader: (82)

That tool does look pretty cool. Small, effective and affordable. Nice find

yuronich_b

iTrader: (11)

http://www.euroexportinc.com/product...428&language=1

Yep...that's the tool that I have and use on my Evo and have used it on a 2g head. With air tools and a steady magnet hand it makes the job take about 20-30 minutes!

TurboTylerIX

iTrader: (2)

SWEET, Im sold, going to order it right now! Thanks!

Lazyfong

iTrader: (24)

Do you plan on changing the valve spring right after receiving this tool?