oil catch can or crankcase breather?
#3
ok well my plan was if i was going with the breather it would have been placed on the valve cover and the tube that goes to the intake tube from the cover would have been removed and a plug installed on the intake pipe. not sure about the intake manifold part of it.
#4
Evolved Member
iTrader: (69)
Your method is not going to work well. The reason being is that your forgetting that our car has a maf. So any extra air comming in after the maf is going to cause drive-ability and or idling issues.
You have to do one of the following:
Keeping stock setup but running a catch can.
or
What I am doing, venting to atmosphere with intake manifold plugged and intake tube plugged to prevent outside air from getting in unmetered.
The breather filters might get some oil vapors because of oil vapors with the blow by gas. But you could get one of those catch cans that are not seald and have a breather on them. This would then have a place for some oil vapors to collect.
Remember the stock pcv line system is designed for emissions reasons while releiving the crank pressure. Since we all mod our cars, run no cats/hfc's, etc... We are breaking the rules anyways. So there is no point in keeping the factory routing. Also catch cans dont work 100% this is the only 100% true bone dry method of ensuring absolute Zero oil in the intake. With the assumptions everything is running properly.
You have to do one of the following:
Keeping stock setup but running a catch can.
or
What I am doing, venting to atmosphere with intake manifold plugged and intake tube plugged to prevent outside air from getting in unmetered.
The breather filters might get some oil vapors because of oil vapors with the blow by gas. But you could get one of those catch cans that are not seald and have a breather on them. This would then have a place for some oil vapors to collect.
Remember the stock pcv line system is designed for emissions reasons while releiving the crank pressure. Since we all mod our cars, run no cats/hfc's, etc... We are breaking the rules anyways. So there is no point in keeping the factory routing. Also catch cans dont work 100% this is the only 100% true bone dry method of ensuring absolute Zero oil in the intake. With the assumptions everything is running properly.
#6
EvoM Community Team
iTrader: (15)
I recommend a catch can. Sure it takes up more space, but the breather is there for a reason. You'll be loading up your oil with harmful vapors that quickly break it down (and can even turn oil into something more like acid). Metering the air is important as well.
If you can't do it right, don't do anything.
If you can't do it right, don't do anything.
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#8
Evolved Member
iTrader: (69)
I recommend a catch can. Sure it takes up more space, but the breather is there for a reason. You'll be loading up your oil with harmful vapors that quickly break it down (and can even turn oil into something more like acid). Metering the air is important as well.
If you can't do it right, don't do anything.
If you can't do it right, don't do anything.
Actually I dont believe that.
Lets remember where this crank pressure comes from. Key word crank.
So there is no real ventilation effect there. Blow-by from the pistons accumulate and get pushed out to the top of the valve area. The blow-by contaminates the oil regardless. This contamination is part of the main reason why need to change our oil.
The stock pcv vacuum routing is designed to keep a closed system from allowing blow-by contamination onto the atmosphere (Emissions reasons).
Some really big drag cars might run a venturi effect pcv system or motor/belt driven vacuum pumps because they push soo much blow-by that vacuum assistance is needed to maximize for clearing it and increasing power output. And then some really big build project cars may have multiple breather ports on their valve cover to allow more gases to escape.
#9
Evolved Member
iTrader: (69)
I dont have any pics but its real simple.
Actually on my car I dont even have breathers. I did the following.
-Remove hose from passenger side pcv and intake manifold.
-Plug Intake manifold nipple.
-remove check valve on passenger pcv.
-remove driver side pcv to intake pipe hose.
-plug intake nipple.
The above is my exact setup. You can put breather on both the pcv nipples or you could run a catch can box with breather setup to them.
#10
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I actually have both.I have seiku michi catch cans and ma performance crank vents.vents help with driveabilty and cans take gunt out of engine.cans also put clean air back in engine.
#12
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be the same thing as just threading a 1/8 NPT barbed fitting into the PCV valve??? then running the barbed fitting to a catch can?
Last edited by Johnboy1065; May 15, 2009 at 03:29 AM.
#13
Evolving Member
iTrader: (8)
i ran a tube and just dump it staight to the ground on the intake side of valve cover, bro. intake pipe has a plug because of the maf. on the back of valve cover, i left the pcv hooked up because it messes with the idle if disconnected "strong vacuum at idle". i would recomend putting catch can on the pcv side and route it back to the intake manifold if anything. on my evo, it seems to alot of blow-by oil there.
Last edited by TIBOevo; May 15, 2009 at 12:49 AM.
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