Has anyone made 400whp on an Evo9 turbo on pump?
#78
Evolved Member
iTrader: (26)
I'm at 390ish according to several side-by-side VDR results and I'm almost positive I could get this to 400whp no problem. Only problem is that torque is falling of a cliff after peak...
Currently have...
PPI ported stock exhaust mani
3'' TBE including O2
Drop in filter with stock intake pipe
3.5'' ETS intercooler, Muse LICP, Fujita UICP with Tial BOV
Not 100% tuned properly but AFR looks great with zero knock so I'm leaving it as is...
Still planning on...
PPI ported stock intake mani
FP4r cams with JUN springs and valves
Hard intake pipe (maybe?)
Give me a few months and I'll have 400whp no problem...
Currently have...
PPI ported stock exhaust mani
3'' TBE including O2
Drop in filter with stock intake pipe
3.5'' ETS intercooler, Muse LICP, Fujita UICP with Tial BOV
Not 100% tuned properly but AFR looks great with zero knock so I'm leaving it as is...
Still planning on...
PPI ported stock intake mani
FP4r cams with JUN springs and valves
Hard intake pipe (maybe?)
Give me a few months and I'll have 400whp no problem...
#79
Evolved Member
iTrader: (30)
I think SD makes a difference of 11-15whp and like Boosted pointed out we did have an S1 car (that has a lot of parts on it) make 393 at the same boost level.
#80
Evolving Member
Holy thread revival batman. I've got a 9 and am hoping for 400hp after remap, but after reading this I'm not so sure. Mods are:
Perrin intake
3" decat tbe
No namer O2 housing
S2 cams
Forged rods
Decent headstuds
Walbro 255
Forge recirc valve
Because of the rods the tuner is going to run 1.9 bar boost and not be too worried about spiking, but I've heard that extra boost adds torque more than hp, but I'm really not sure. Also I don't know if it makes any difference but I've got a UK FQ-340 so I'm not sure if that means it left the factory with any slight improvements I don't know about. I did think about buying IC pipes but at some point I will do a big turbo conversion with IC etc so didn't want to buy some ****ty Injen pipes now when later on I'm going to buy a decent ETS setup or something like that
Perrin intake
3" decat tbe
No namer O2 housing
S2 cams
Forged rods
Decent headstuds
Walbro 255
Forge recirc valve
Because of the rods the tuner is going to run 1.9 bar boost and not be too worried about spiking, but I've heard that extra boost adds torque more than hp, but I'm really not sure. Also I don't know if it makes any difference but I've got a UK FQ-340 so I'm not sure if that means it left the factory with any slight improvements I don't know about. I did think about buying IC pipes but at some point I will do a big turbo conversion with IC etc so didn't want to buy some ****ty Injen pipes now when later on I'm going to buy a decent ETS setup or something like that
Last edited by D1andonlyantman; Oct 17, 2014 at 09:06 AM.
#83
Evolved Member
iTrader: (19)
#84
Evolving Member
At 2.42 a litre they can keep their bloody Bp102!! That's insane!! I do use the current best pump fuel which is shell v-power and that's a more reasonable 1.44 a litre, so I'm hoping for good results
#85
Evolved Member
iTrader: (30)
So here is the first thread I did about a 400whp+ pumpgas IX turbo car-
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...92-octane.html
Then here are 3 more that we have done on Chevron 92 octane and nothing else (pertinent mods only, not all of them) -
My Evo IX (mine was 436 corrected) -
ER LR2.4
Bushmaster Race port head
ER O2 dump
ER testpipe cutout
GSC R2 camshafts
Magnus V5
ETS 3.5" exhaust
ETS 4" intercooler
Fuel Injector Clinic 2150s
Electric waterpump
FP race manifold
SD tune
Eugene
Stock IX longblock
GSC S2 camshafts
Ported intake manifold
FP Race manifold
ETS 3.5" intercooler
Unknown O2 dump
SD tune
Dan VIII
Stock VIII Longblock
GSC S2 camshafts
Magnus V5
Ported stock exhaust manifold
3" TBE
O2 dump
SD Tune
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...92-octane.html
Then here are 3 more that we have done on Chevron 92 octane and nothing else (pertinent mods only, not all of them) -
My Evo IX (mine was 436 corrected) -
ER LR2.4
Bushmaster Race port head
ER O2 dump
ER testpipe cutout
GSC R2 camshafts
Magnus V5
ETS 3.5" exhaust
ETS 4" intercooler
Fuel Injector Clinic 2150s
Electric waterpump
FP race manifold
SD tune
Eugene
Stock IX longblock
GSC S2 camshafts
Ported intake manifold
FP Race manifold
ETS 3.5" intercooler
Unknown O2 dump
SD tune
Dan VIII
Stock VIII Longblock
GSC S2 camshafts
Magnus V5
Ported stock exhaust manifold
3" TBE
O2 dump
SD Tune
Last edited by JohnBradley; Oct 17, 2014 at 05:11 PM.
#86
Evolving Member
Judging from the last mods and chart which are the closest to my setup I think, I think I'll be close to 400 but maybe not quite. I knew my exhaust manifold was going to hold me back a bit but that's part of my bigger build plan so I didn't bother yet. I think my forged rods and extra boost will help up the power somewhat but maybe I'm looking at just a bit under the 4's. Let me know your power predictions and once I get it dyno'd (it's getting road mapped) I'll let you know
#89
Evolved Member
iTrader: (8)
Very curious about Aaron's reasoning too.
FWIW, I tested out all the different fuels local to me years ago and Chevron was the winner for me too. It didn't seem inherently better than the others, just more consistent.
Chevron didn't really care about a 30F temperature change, tank to tank was rock solid, and station to station was great too. Tune it once and the tune was great with every tank and through 3 of the 4 seasons. A winter retune let you run a couple more PSI...10F temps in the winter vs. 105F though in the summer, you'd expect to benefit from some retune there though.
I did notice burn rate seemed to be different from brand to brand. Some fuels NEEDED more timing advance then others, but they all made basically the same power once tuned at a given boost level. If I recall correctly, Chevron NEEDED more timing then some of the others, which really, if the other fuels were as consistent and stable, they would be the better choice. But they weren't, so...
FWIW, I tested out all the different fuels local to me years ago and Chevron was the winner for me too. It didn't seem inherently better than the others, just more consistent.
Chevron didn't really care about a 30F temperature change, tank to tank was rock solid, and station to station was great too. Tune it once and the tune was great with every tank and through 3 of the 4 seasons. A winter retune let you run a couple more PSI...10F temps in the winter vs. 105F though in the summer, you'd expect to benefit from some retune there though.
I did notice burn rate seemed to be different from brand to brand. Some fuels NEEDED more timing advance then others, but they all made basically the same power once tuned at a given boost level. If I recall correctly, Chevron NEEDED more timing then some of the others, which really, if the other fuels were as consistent and stable, they would be the better choice. But they weren't, so...
#90
Evolved Member
iTrader: (30)
I use Shell and Chevron, both seem to have tested the best for knock resistance in a stock knock setting test. The main reason we use Chevron is the station is 1.2 miles from the shop so it originally it was more about convenience. I knew that I could run 28-29psi on Shell, then I could do it on Chevron. I started testing the other big brands and found that it wasnt as capable (seemingly) but since its difficult to make that a fair back to back test there were always fairly decent time gaps in between.
tl;dr - Chevron is close to the shop.
tl;dr - Chevron is close to the shop.
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