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School me on the FP Turbo differences

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Old May 21, 2009, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by kwanza
There is also the tomei arms turbo m7960. It is also a 20g turbo.
see i was wondering if anyone uses this trubo i have a great deal on tomei so i was wondering about the arms turbo for my shop evo...
Old May 21, 2009, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by evo_man_06
see i was wondering if anyone uses this trubo i have a great deal on tomei so i was wondering about the arms turbo for my shop evo...
Well if you can get a great deal on it then it looks to be similar to the Green (from what I saw)...
Old May 21, 2009, 12:21 PM
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Ok, 2nd class in session, is there a professor in the house:

Maybe I am over anaylizing, but what is the reason for the naming convention FP used on it's turbo's. Red, white, green... Are they originally different turbos? Evo 8 turbo gets the Green Designation, where as the EVO9 get s a RED, etc?
Old May 21, 2009, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Raceghost
Ok, 2nd class in session, is there a professor in the house:

Maybe I am over anaylizing, but what is the reason for the naming convention FP used on it's turbo's. Red, white, green... Are they originally different turbos? Evo 8 turbo gets the Green Designation, where as the EVO9 get s a RED, etc?
Far as I know both turbos , red and green, come from and Evo 9 turbo base. The white turbo i can't remember if it started as an evo 8 turbo or not.

The color designations have been around for a long time for all we know Rob could be referencing and old Boost gauge as the model for his color choices. The one thing that is clear is that each turbo is very different in terms of boost and power.

Max Power potential from bottom to top:
White
Green
Red
Old May 21, 2009, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by cij911
Bryan / Razorlab / GST posted some graphs comparing the Green / Red / and BBK Full on several cars that have come though their shop...IMHO if you are going to run 91 pump, the BBK Full will provide the largest area under the curve and be the best turbo for your application.
Originally Posted by Fast_Freddie
One plus for the BBK is the lead time to actually have it in hand... FP is on backorder, where you can have a BBK in approximately 1-2 weeks depending if it is new or core upgrade...

These are the two reasons I chose BBK over the red. CBRD was a dream to work with and I had the turbo in my hands 4 business days after ordered and paid for it. The red does spool marginally slower but from everythign I've heard the transient response time of the red is much higher/slower than the BBK. This is simply because it is bigger, no harm or fowl, but it is what it is.

The red uses a lot of other custom parts like a bigger shaft and custom bearings, a custom WGA to hold more boost and now has a custom compressor cover to combat compressor surge. As compscib0i said, it IS badass. However, all of these non-OEM parts bring fragility to the turbo when it is pushed long and hard, and a little voice in the back of my head tells me to be wary of such parts. Progress is good, but failures are bad. The BBK, for a fact, holds boost better than the red, and it does this on the STOCK WGA, stock shaft, stock bearings. Yes it is younger than the green and reds, but I think time will tell here how well they will hold up in comparison.

The red will make more peak power than the bbk, no question. But, with a level playing field, I believe the power under the curve to be advantage BBK, and even more so on pump gas (think real world guys, not just race cars). If I had a dedicated race/drag car that was a project and I didn't use it for anything else, I would probably put a red on it. However, I drive my evo daily, so I chose the BBK.


Originally Posted by compscibOi
I know we live in a society where almost everyone expects instant gratification, but patience is a virtue.


I'd gladly wait 16+ weeks for an FPRed. There is a reason they are on backorder. Because they are so badass, everyone wants one.
Patience is a virtue yes, but the greens were always on back order and now the reds are as well. You'd think FP builds all these turbos in batches of 10 or 20 or whatever, so as a result some people in that batch end up waiting while the ones at the end don't wait as much. If I order something like a turbo, 3 weeks would be an ok time to wait, it would be very reasonable. 6, 10, 16 weeks...we are talking 3+ months! What happens if/when it breaks? I get to wait another 6,10,16 weeks and my car is down that whole time!

You said it yourself man, but slightly off IMHO. We live in a society where everyone WANTS instant gratification. If we can't get it, a reasonable amount of time (like 3 weeks for example) will just have to do. Now, here is CBRD/Blouch providing near instant gratification because they know that's what the people want. FP builds great products, but they obviously don't give a rip about what people want concerning delivery times. Robert said it himself on this forum. They build 'the best' so people can afford to wait for it. If not, too bad.

Again, ForcedPerformance builds great great great products and they have truely brought us to a new level of fun/awesomeness, so I do not want this post to be flamed on or viewed as me flaming FP. Just make sure you make an educated decision when you put your money down.
Old May 21, 2009, 02:18 PM
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can someone comment on thier prices as well. Thanks!
Old May 21, 2009, 02:37 PM
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Do some searching on the prices as it depends on the application. E.g. - BBK Full, Lite, Green using your stock turbo core, etc.

Based on previous searches I've done the Red is $1700-ish for a brand new turbo (sell yours for $400+, depending), the BBK Full is about $100-ish cheaper, and the Green is a 2 - 3 hundred cheaper. Do some searching for better prices as that info isn't current.

I am running meth so I will likely go for the Red. I do like what I see with the BBK Full but I will likely be running a stroker down the road (2.3L) and would rather get the red and stick with it.

Scheides, do you have info regarding FP products breaking down? I think I understand your point in that some of the parts are customized on the application, but that doesn't necessarily dictate that they will not hold up. In fact, there are a lot of examples where aftermarket customized parts hold up better (e.g. - transmissions, headstuds, pistons, etc., etc.).
Old May 21, 2009, 03:31 PM
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Most failures are not publicly spoken of, some are posted here. I'm actually very curious about the actual info. If someone from FP wouldn't mind sharing their failure rate it would be pretty awesome. A lot of them seem to be oil or WGA related, and I hear FP is quick to send out replacements which is a definite plus on their part for making things right. I know one BBK failed, but there are probably less of them out there at this point, I'm not sure.

This is where people tend to get really really sensitive so let's focus more on the OP's real question about how these turbos all differ or this conversation is going to get mucky pretty quick.
Old May 21, 2009, 03:34 PM
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Good point. I believe the OP has his answers, unless there is something else he is after. G/L with the purchase. I'm interested in these threads since I will be making my choice soon.
Old May 21, 2009, 04:32 PM
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Someone else said it best, do my research. I am trying very hard to read and understand the differences, and yes I am getting there. So I really appreciate anyone's info that they have posted. Taking your time to point and help a newb relate is certainly a great post and great member in my oppinion.

I am trying to build a streatable/SCCA AutoX 400/400 car. This is my dream car, and it took 5 years to get it. So without varying off my original topic to much, that is why I am curious about the differences with these turbo's. Powerband seems to be the better choice of questions realting to these turbo's. On most AutoX corses, You usually are either at the top of your powerband in 2nd gear, or right in the mid for your 3rd gear. Understanding what each Turbo is going to give in these situations is probably what I need to relate. I don't want to blow my motor sky high, and be rebuilding it often to keep the power usable for my situation. I am not a big stoplight to stoplight power dragger, but the occasional WOT run to put Mustangs(insert car of your choice) in it's place is always fun.

So concider this a research topic in finding what the best usable Turbo, with supporting mods is. I might do 272 cams, for I think a solid motor build is a great place to start, atleast with the NA cars I used to race that was the starting point. Solid motor, less boost, hit the HP mark I want, with a broad usable power band. So researching best turbo to use. I have heard so much about the FP Turbo's, but had issues with understanding the differences.

Thanks again for all your patience in the matter, and any good points that would help, are always appreciated.

Last edited by Raceghost; May 21, 2009 at 04:35 PM.
Old May 21, 2009, 06:11 PM
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I emailed FP back and forth trying to compare the 35r with thier red, and they have confirmed that the red's flow rate is around 60 lbs/min. They didn;t comment much on the wheel/turbine sizes differences , but i guess that might be because its a proprietary thing.

Yahu,
Thanks for the list of prices, I have been reading quite a bit around here and on other sites, however i just wanted to see what everyone thought in this thread, as it seems to be more red/bbk oriented.

cheers!
Old May 21, 2009, 07:15 PM
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If SCCA/Auto-X is your goal, the quicker spooling Green may be where you put your money at. Plus the smaller(-ish) size will mean a more usable transition between vacuum and full boost, instead of causing serious weight transfer from later power bands.
Old May 21, 2009, 08:11 PM
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if we can help let us know..

he reason we can supply these turbos (we've built around 100)... is because we invested the money into having cores and a good supply of compressors and turbines..

delivery time is 2 days to ship from order...

Fp makes a great product.... choose what suits your needs best, and who you are most comfortable with.

cb
Old May 21, 2009, 09:43 PM
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In going with your most recent post OP, look into David Buschur's Project White. It seems like that thing is an AutoX beast! It is built 2.3L with an FPRed, running e85. The torque curve on that thing is just silly (might actually be a bit much for AutoX, unless you know how to control it).
Old May 21, 2009, 10:03 PM
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Once again to the OP... If auto X is your forte, then I believe that BBK full would be the best choice, then a FP green after that, then BBK lite, then a FP white. Again, the choice is definitely yours and these are my opinions based on all I have read in the past. Doesn't sound like you will be running a stroker, or E-85, or meth, so for pump gas these would be my choices in order of Hell yes to maybe...


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