Stealth Ag

iTrader: (7)

Recently installed revolver cams on my Evo. I'm aware that these cams are tough to idle btw. But upon start up the car sputters and spits like the cams are overly advanced.

My mech says there are two pin holes on the cams and beleaves that perhaps we installed them in the wrong pin spot,

I'm hoping someone can offer advice or experience with a similar experience or has a valid suggestion.

Thanks

kkarim

iTrader: (2)

the cams have only one pin. some cam gears, such as the fidanza ones have two pin holes, with one of them being labeled as "evo". it is possible your mech used the second hole.

taking the cam gear cover off should be enough to uncover such a mistake.

MN_Evolution

iTrader: (3)

Or one of the cam gears could be off by 1 tooth. mine was, and it sputtered hardcore like what your saying.

crcain

When we degreed my friends revolvers, we found the intake cam I think was off by 11.5 cam degree from revolvers published spec. That is how much we adjusted his cam. His car runs well. 11.0 on Green.. he is on a Red now.

crcain

Sorry had to eat dinner... anyway yes when we degreed my buddies cams, the intake cam was off by a whopping 22 degrees crank from revolvers published lobe centerline value. Basically this means Revolver has some serious quality control issues. I'd say it's a big risk to run Revolvers without degreeing your cams.

Stealth Ag

iTrader: (7)

clear stuff up...

Cams have one pin and two holes, two locations for one pin
Cam gears are stock non adjustable
Cams came from a running car, information is limited from the previous owner since he does not do his own work
The likely hood of install error is very minimal as the mech has done hundreds of cam installs and is a certified mitsu master tech

The question is about what is going on with the multible pin holes on the cam (again one pin two possible holes)

If anyone has access to a spec sheet for these cams I would greatly appreciate it via fax or email....or hell type out the info on it would be great

crcain

http://www.revolvercams.com/specsheets/evospecs.htm

I recommend you change cams, or degree your revolvers.

Stealth Ag

iTrader: (7)

So that sheet should be all the info the tech needs to degree the cams?

crcain

Actually no.. that sheet doesn't have the lobe centerline values.. which I got from a thread on here. I think the cam specs thread stickied on this forum.

Stealth Ag

iTrader: (7)

So basicly I need to degree the cams and switch the pins to the appropriate pin hole that matchs the center line, or use adjustable cam gears to adjust for the variance? Should the pins be lined up with the centerline of the lobe?

crcain

The pin hole issue I'm unsure of... but don't worry about that. When you degree your cams, you'll know whether you are using the right dowel pin hole or not. Yes you need adjustable cam gears. And if your going to have a shop do it, I'd strongly recommend choosing a shop that does this all the time.

dsevo

iTrader: (19)

Revolver 262/264
Advertised Duration - 262 deg Int / 264 deg Exh
Effective Duration - 222 deg @ 1mm Int / 223 deg @ 1mm Exh
Lift - 11.4mm Int / 11.5mm Exh
Lobe Centerlines - 109 deg Int / 111 deg Exh
LSA - 110 deg
Upgraded valve springs required


I have he same cams and ran mine for 3 years without issue. They are very good running cams, just make sure they are degreed correctly. I ran mine on EMS before, but I will be running them on my new setup with the stock ECU in the next few weeks. and btw, the lobe centerlines are supposed to be the same as the stock cams, so assuming they are built correctly, the stock cam gears should be fine.

Appauldd

iTrader: (22)

I've been running revolver cams for some time now. They are set with stock cam gears and all timing marks aligned. I never noticed any "other pin holes" when I installed them. Then again my pins were already installed so I really wan't looking.

They are a pain to get them to idle though. The high lift really screws with the MAF. The car will act up like crazy until you get the idle tuning squared away.

Some things I did that seemed to really help a lot
1)raise the base idle timing from 5 to 8 degrees
2)open up the BIS about 1/4 turn
3)raise the idle RPM settings to 1000 ish
4)adjust out the plug on the bottom of the MAF (helps to lower the Hz reading at idle so LTFT low can adjust properly)
5)zip tie every vacuum line (you lose a lon of vacuum with these cams)

I am still working on keeping the car running with the AC on. It wants to die at idle with the AC on.

Some extra FYI....these cams don't like a lot of timing at top end.

As others have said on here....sounds like you are off a tooth or so on the belt. If there is another pin hole it isn't hat difficult to check.

Trust me when I say....these cams are amazing!

Pair them with an FP green and you will have an amazing machine. So much fun to drive.

Appauldd

iTrader: (22)

Oh and one more thing.....did you install upgraded springs and retainers????

If not...you could be getting binding causing your issues. Just a thought.

Stealth Ag

iTrader: (7)

After some fiddling the car is running, and well.

The cams where about 8* off.

The issue of the pin holes is unique, somewhere along the lines the cams where re-pinned by someone.

The cams came out of a motor built by TurboTrix i am assuming that they did the modifications to the cams. So i am contacting them about the issue of the pins.