AMS 2.0 build/ FP beehive, kelford 272 problem
#18
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who did the spring install? and does the FP spring come with a locater? or do you re-use the stock piece? I don't think that could be a batch issue, that is a ordering the right part to go along with the spring issue.
.010!! I can not believe you were even able to drive it with only .010...you should run in the min, .030- .040 range before coil bind.
Crazy!
.010!! I can not believe you were even able to drive it with only .010...you should run in the min, .030- .040 range before coil bind.
Crazy!
#19
I did the original spring install stock head re using all original head parts that came apart when removing stock springs. The spring install after the machine work was done per fp's instructions by my head guy. The measurements to do machine work were also per FP. I did not physically see any of the measurements or the instruments used to do the measuring. The fp springs come by themselves no other pieces. They have since been running in the car for 5k plus miles with lots of pulls above 8500 rpm without any issues.
#23
The guides were cracked but I didn't know that when I posted the pics. I have been horrible at keeping this up to date.
As fathouse said the head was bone stock with the exception of cams when I installed the springs. I didn't notice the valve seal issue until I decided to build the block for peace of mind which was about 5k after the springs were installed.
There isn't any issue that I'm aware of after replacing the guides and new seals.
As fathouse said the head was bone stock with the exception of cams when I installed the springs. I didn't notice the valve seal issue until I decided to build the block for peace of mind which was about 5k after the springs were installed.
There isn't any issue that I'm aware of after replacing the guides and new seals.
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You run a clearance before coil bind because the spring doesn't stay .010 away while running at high rpm. So you run .040+ to be safe. The spring being that tight(.010) the retainer was just bouncing off the guide at high rpm. The guide is cast, so it cracks or breaks. If it happened with the bronze it would have just beat it up. Either way it would have leaked because of the seal. We have run them in the high .030's in some of the race heads where fast ramp speeds on the cam are the norm because running it close can help with harmonics...to think about it another way, a dollar is .007 thick and he has .010 from coil bind!
You guys kinda contradicted yourselves with if it was or not a stock head..but you mentioned stock parts, and FP's site says stock locaters and anything being machined with a stock valve would have taken you farther away from bind(or the guides and seals being destroyed) unless the cam was bigger(to much lift) then the spring was designed for..
You guys kinda contradicted yourselves with if it was or not a stock head..but you mentioned stock parts, and FP's site says stock locaters and anything being machined with a stock valve would have taken you farther away from bind(or the guides and seals being destroyed) unless the cam was bigger(to much lift) then the spring was designed for..
Last edited by HeadGames; Feb 23, 2010 at 06:15 PM.
#28
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The problem, he had was pretty much a common wear issue. If you remove the head and bring it to a trusted machine shop and have them verify the valve guides are in nice shape. Also i would get the slimmer valve stem seals from supertech regardless I have just seen way to many factory ones failing.
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You have to use the supertech seal with their spring kit because their inner spring has a smaller inner diameter then most if not all other duel spring kits. The inner spring does not get along with the fat outer diameter of the stock size seal and pulls the seal off the guide. It is the same seal used for the Honda LS. It doesn't really affect any other spring package you might use.
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