which clutch with my red and aquamist setup?
#16
I have a Quarter Master twin and drive my car every day. I have close to 2000 miles of around town driving, and 23 launches on drag radials. They specify 500 miles of break in, but we went to the track with 57 and never looked back. I chose the QM for reliability and durability during testing of various components, it's loud, rattles, and takes getting used to, but if you want a bulletproof clutch the QM twin is it. I do not have a Red on meth, but I do have a hard running overweight RS that runs 11's in near stock trim.
Last edited by Indy Evo; Sep 15, 2009 at 06:35 AM.
#17
I highly advise against the Exedy Twin with a Red/Methanol combo. I had a 1.5 month Exedy Twin completely let go on me with my setup slipping all the way down the track. The fact of the matter is the higher the level one goes with these turbo's the more narrow the options of clutches becomes. If I could do it all over again I would have went with an Exedy Triple.
#18
Not that proven. They material is too thick and you have to break in a clutch several thousand miles according to drifto or whatever his name is. Read up on RYU's evo on how he has problems. Spec blames this on the evo's master cylinder. Supposively the clutch works great after you break it in for several thousand miles. Ryu has lockout issues on high rpm shifts. You'll find that Ted B loves his clutch however. While you are breaking in the clutch for several thousand miles, you are abusing your transmission because the clutch is not fully disengaging.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...p-tuned-2.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...c-install.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...p-tuned-2.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...c-install.html
clutch design is very give and take. you cant have your cake and eat it to when it comes to clutches. you have to pick which clutch fault you can live with. the spec twin uses heavy discs that are designed to drive smooth, last long, and hold massive torque. their drawback is they are on the heavy side for high RPM shifting.
#19
I highly advise against the Exedy Twin with a Red/Methanol combo. I had a 1.5 month Exedy Twin completely let go on me with my setup slipping all the way down the track. The fact of the matter is the higher the level one goes with these turbo's the more narrow the options of clutches becomes. If I could do it all over again I would have went with an Exedy Triple.
#21
exedy triple plate carbon...... i have the twin hd and it seems to be fine tho, but ive yet to get my setup dyno tuned yet. but from what i can tell the twin hd is very streetable. I would do a triple carbon tho to be safe.
#22
I think I know more about clutches than anyone on this board. mostly because I have tried just about every clutch on the market and I am always on the search of the absolute best clutch on the market. Without going into a 20000 word essay on the subject the spec clutch is the best twin on the market for most people. The ones its not best for are the die hard drag enthusiast. These people shift their car very fast, NLTS, and at very high RPM. their goal is to squeeze every last hundredth at the track. I have driven RYU car and have been passenger as he drives. I also build transmissions and know thoroughly how they operate, and how they deteriorate when driven hard. I build and drive devastating fast 4G63 as well. And I can tell you I would never beat on my car the way RYU drives. Its not worth the abuse to the drivetrain. this is not a negative bash toward Chris and his acheivements with his car. Its just his feedback on the clutch is being overly criticized. I have driven the car and the clutch shifts wonderful for the most part. Most people simply do not drive like he does and simply would not experience the lock out like he is. I was only able to produce a very slight scratch with my high RPM shifting the car. The clutch is absolutely wonderful for daily driver. Read TEDs advice over and over because he is correct. it blows away all the other twins on the market as an enjoyable to drive daily.
clutch design is very give and take. you cant have your cake and eat it to when it comes to clutches. you have to pick which clutch fault you can live with. the spec twin uses heavy discs that are designed to drive smooth, last long, and hold massive torque. their drawback is they are on the heavy side for high RPM shifting.
clutch design is very give and take. you cant have your cake and eat it to when it comes to clutches. you have to pick which clutch fault you can live with. the spec twin uses heavy discs that are designed to drive smooth, last long, and hold massive torque. their drawback is they are on the heavy side for high RPM shifting.
#23
#24
We will be using a Tilton master cylinder for Ryu's clutch and we hope this should alleviate his problem.
#25
These clutches have their place, just not on my car. Likewise, given my experience with the SPEC unit, which is much easier and more fun to drive, I would not point any street users in the direction of a Tilton or QM if they aren't prepared for the hassles. Driving Drifto's car with the SPEC unit was enough to make me get out of that Tilton as quickly as I could find a rack.
Caveat emptor.
#27
my exedy doesn't chatter or scrape during shifts....... the only time it makes a funky noise with shifting is if you downshift without rev matching then it howls. sounds like the spec is the same as what i got now then.....
#29
I havent done the research to know if that slave has more travel than the quarter master. But both clutches use the small 7.25 clutch cover. Those clutches require very little finger travel to get that cover to disengage. My guess is the tilton TOb wont do a thing. The spec clutch is 8.5 diameter and the fingers need more travel than the 7.25. My idea was to increase the master cylinder bore diameter. This would certainly reduce the pedal travel needed to get the cover disengaged. This would give the syncros several micro seconds more time to do their job.
#30