Lets talk oil quality and why?
Jun 24, 2009, 07:54 PM
#31
think to accompish a realy tight toleranced engine like the factory pure engineering would have to go into the process, like for example , engineering modeling analysis, and then feeding the analysis to a designer to transpose that to a cad like Pro-E,,, now you are talking you would tripple the price of that build.
I found an SAE paper that was interesting to me, thought some of you guys would find it interesting too. It's a quick read and I think it applies to regular oils, not POA's : http://www.eng.auburn.edu/~jacksr7/SAE2002013355.pdf
To the OP, I'm really sorry for going astray.
Last edited by SWOLN; Jun 24, 2009 at 08:10 PM.
Jun 24, 2009, 09:13 PM
#32
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Damn I learned a lot reading that link, Thanks!
Also good talking with Andy from Amsoil who took care of all of my quetions and made it quite clear he is passionate for the inter workings of engines and lubtication systems.
Also good talking with Andy from Amsoil who took care of all of my quetions and made it quite clear he is passionate for the inter workings of engines and lubtication systems.
Jun 25, 2009, 02:07 PM
#33
SWOLN
Very true, i couldnt agree any more with you.
oils these days are alot more advanced than people even imagine, trying to exaplin for example that a person can run an oil for 17,000 miles or up to 35,000k is hard because it just doesnt fit right it doesnt sound right, however you watch people will start catching up with the oil technology hear in the near future.
one detail i have noticed is that car Manufacturers and dealers are scaring customers by telling them they need to change their oils more regular, when in reality there is no need,,,, they just want you in there for the 30$ oil change and to try and stuff you with a 400$ brake job.
Very true, i couldnt agree any more with you.
oils these days are alot more advanced than people even imagine, trying to exaplin for example that a person can run an oil for 17,000 miles or up to 35,000k is hard because it just doesnt fit right it doesnt sound right, however you watch people will start catching up with the oil technology hear in the near future.
one detail i have noticed is that car Manufacturers and dealers are scaring customers by telling them they need to change their oils more regular, when in reality there is no need,,,, they just want you in there for the 30$ oil change and to try and stuff you with a 400$ brake job.
Yeah, I understand about expansion rates of different aluminums for different pistons ect... This is where one might increase the load of the rings so that lighter oils don't creap by... It wouldn't take very much to compensate here.
I don't think we need to go that far, although it may lead to it down the road, but even just the factory bearing tolerances would work here. Also, one could monitor the bearing qualities and use plasti-gauge to keep clearences to factory spec. I think the idea would be to take small steps, and make progress where other people have over looked, or have just kind of swept things under the rug because that's they way it been done for a while. I mean we have better oil, but it seems we are building the same motors with out taking advantage of the better oil. Yeah, people say the change their oil more often, but the oils we preach about are better than that. They can go a bazillion miles, and not have to change them, compared to the oils of old. Film strengths are higher, shear is better, oxidation is better, and on and on.
I agree. We should not be going thicker, thickER, THICKER, but the other way to take advantage of spool up, cooling, and fuel economy.
I found an SAE paper that was interesting to me, thought some of you guys would find it interesting too. It's a quick read and I think it applies to regular oils, not POA's : http://www.eng.auburn.edu/~jacksr7/SAE2002013355.pdf
To the OP, I'm really sorry for going astray.
I don't think we need to go that far, although it may lead to it down the road, but even just the factory bearing tolerances would work here. Also, one could monitor the bearing qualities and use plasti-gauge to keep clearences to factory spec. I think the idea would be to take small steps, and make progress where other people have over looked, or have just kind of swept things under the rug because that's they way it been done for a while. I mean we have better oil, but it seems we are building the same motors with out taking advantage of the better oil. Yeah, people say the change their oil more often, but the oils we preach about are better than that. They can go a bazillion miles, and not have to change them, compared to the oils of old. Film strengths are higher, shear is better, oxidation is better, and on and on.
I agree. We should not be going thicker, thickER, THICKER, but the other way to take advantage of spool up, cooling, and fuel economy.
I found an SAE paper that was interesting to me, thought some of you guys would find it interesting too. It's a quick read and I think it applies to regular oils, not POA's : http://www.eng.auburn.edu/~jacksr7/SAE2002013355.pdf
To the OP, I'm really sorry for going astray.
Jun 25, 2009, 02:31 PM
#35
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Any opinions on German Castrol 0w30? Seems like this oil has a lot of hype to it and has for years, but I haven't seen it mentioned much at all on these boards.
Jun 25, 2009, 06:35 PM
#37
Question for apagan01,
Which weight AMSOIL would you recommend for a stock block/head Evo VIII with ~95k miles? I have the mods in my sig. Should I stick with 10w30?
TIA!
FB
Which weight AMSOIL would you recommend for a stock block/head Evo VIII with ~95k miles? I have the mods in my sig. Should I stick with 10w30?
TIA!
FB
Jun 25, 2009, 07:19 PM
#38
$22 for 5 gallons of Mobil-1 at WALMART every 3000 miles. If you are changing your oil every 1000 miles then the choice is up to you as the end user. I don't really think you are going to be breaking down oil in 700-1000 miles on any reputable brand, unless you are beating the **** out of your car really really bad. I used Amsoil for quite a while but the store that carried it for cheap closed, so I went back to the Mobil-1...
Jun 25, 2009, 08:03 PM
#39
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No matter how good the new oils are i would never leave an oil in my engine more than 3000 miles...
Engine oil is quite important to be cheap on, especially when spending thousands of dollars on our cars...
Engine oil is quite important to be cheap on, especially when spending thousands of dollars on our cars...
Jun 25, 2009, 09:59 PM
#41
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As the whole -whos brand of synthetic is best- war goes on you have to look at my experience. My 91 GSX got Valvoline 10W-30 it's entire life of 240,000 miles on the same engine. I actually went to 10W-40 as it got older (around 200k). At that mileage, by the time it needed a half quart, the 3500 mile change was due. Yes!, 3500 miles and $8 for oil and a fliter. And it still sounded like a 4G63 every time it ran. Compression and oil pressure was just fine, considering.
Daily driven, sometimes spirited, new 16g at 190k...new clutch at 90K, new tranny twice, head rebuilt thanks to a blown timing belt. Not track raced but never scared of a z28 or anything that starts with an "H".
I wouldn't go back to conventional oil, especially in the EVO, but I have to say the whole oil thing is blown out of proportion. Especially if you drop it out every 3000 miles (or hopefully after every hard race). And 1000 mile intervals is pretty unbelivable unless you're at the track like a hooker's on the corner.
I did like those seven buck changes though. The GSX is still outside. How many gallons of oil and how many changes is that?
Daily driven, sometimes spirited, new 16g at 190k...new clutch at 90K, new tranny twice, head rebuilt thanks to a blown timing belt. Not track raced but never scared of a z28 or anything that starts with an "H".
I wouldn't go back to conventional oil, especially in the EVO, but I have to say the whole oil thing is blown out of proportion. Especially if you drop it out every 3000 miles (or hopefully after every hard race). And 1000 mile intervals is pretty unbelivable unless you're at the track like a hooker's on the corner.
I did like those seven buck changes though. The GSX is still outside. How many gallons of oil and how many changes is that?
Jun 26, 2009, 09:08 AM
#43
Originally Posted by Fast_Freddie
$22 for 5 gallons of Mobil-1 at WALMART every 3000 miles. If you are changing your oil every 1000 miles then the choice is up to you as the end user. I don't really think you are going to be breaking down oil in 700-1000 miles on any reputable brand, unless you are beating the **** out of your car really really bad. I used Amsoil for quite a while but the store that carried it for cheap closed, so I went back to the Mobil-1...
he needs
$22 for 5 gallons of Mobil-1 at WALMART every 3000 miles. If you are changing your oil every 1000 miles then the choice is up to you as the end user. I don't really think you are going to be breaking down oil in 700-1000 miles on any reputable brand, unless you are beating the **** out of your car really really bad. I used Amsoil for quite a while but the store that carried it for cheap closed, so I went back to the Mobil-1...
he needs
Last edited by apagan01; Jun 26, 2009 at 09:15 AM.
Jun 27, 2009, 09:05 PM
#44
Stick to what the oil cap says on your Evo
Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic 10W30. I just bought 4.73 Liters tonight at Walmart for about $23.00, picked up an oil filter from TTP and will be changing the oil myself tomorrow in the Evo.
New NGK spark plugs when in today as well.
Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic 10W30. I just bought 4.73 Liters tonight at Walmart for about $23.00, picked up an oil filter from TTP and will be changing the oil myself tomorrow in the Evo.
New NGK spark plugs when in today as well.
Jun 27, 2009, 09:35 PM
#45
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Stick to what the oil cap says on your Evo
Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic 10W30. I just bought 4.73 Liters tonight at Walmart for about $23.00, picked up an oil filter from TTP and will be changing the oil myself tomorrow in the Evo.
New NGK spark plugs when in today as well.
Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic 10W30. I just bought 4.73 Liters tonight at Walmart for about $23.00, picked up an oil filter from TTP and will be changing the oil myself tomorrow in the Evo.
New NGK spark plugs when in today as well.