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Lets talk oil quality and why?

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Old Jun 28, 2009, 12:32 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by xspsi4
Mobil1 is not even an option for me, Maybe on a dead stock evo but no thanks.
We agree. After you see everything we see on a daily basis one graduates to a better appreciation for the lifeblood of the engine.
Old Jun 28, 2009, 05:17 AM
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Originally Posted by compscibOi
Stick to what the oil cap says on your Evo


Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic 10W30. I just bought 4.73 Liters tonight at Walmart for about $23.00, picked up an oil filter from TTP and will be changing the oil myself tomorrow in the Evo.


New NGK spark plugs when in today as well.
i respect fully your decision and opinion

however you stepped up your game as far as mods go right , you are making more power than stock.

now step up your game as far as lubricating your engine
Old Jun 28, 2009, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by SWOLN
I agree with that, mostly (Non performance types). My point was just that some oil are very good, and we could take advatage of them, but most people don't. (running tighter motors)
I have never heard someone to build a motor and build it with tight clearances and the purpose of the build is to make power. If we are talking stock I would understand to run an oil such the 0w30 amsoil which I was running for the 12,000 of the 19,000 miles before I go forged.

When you are trying to make 300 and 400 hp more than the stock motor then everything changes and clearances is one of the factors. The oil used is in accordance to that factor. I cannot imagine running the above mentioned amsoil now. The motor would burn it like it's a 2 stroke engine!
Maybe one of the thicker dominators.... We ll see...

People from the big engine builders should chime in... From the AMS camp, the Buschur camp, etc... The builder is the most appropriate person to chose the proper oil for their motors. For example if I remember AMS's break in instructions we are suggesting a non synthetic for the first 3000 miles
and the if you want you can change to a good synthetic... If you want... I am pretty sure that they wouldn't say that if that choice could hurt their multi thousand dollar motor!
Old Jun 28, 2009, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by kouzman
I have never heard someone to build a motor and build it with tight clearances and the purpose of the build is to make power. If we are talking stock I would understand to run an oil such the 0w30 amsoil which I was running for the 12,000 of the 19,000 miles before I go forged.

When you are trying to make 300 and 400 hp more than the stock motor then everything changes and clearances is one of the factors. The oil used is in accordance to that factor. I cannot imagine running the above mentioned amsoil now. The motor would burn it like it's a 2 stroke engine!
Maybe one of the thicker dominators.... We ll see...

People from the big engine builders should chime in... From the AMS camp, the Buschur camp, etc... The builder is the most appropriate person to chose the proper oil for their motors. For example if I remember AMS's break in instructions we are suggesting a non synthetic for the first 3000 miles
and the if you want you can change to a good synthetic... If you want... I am pretty sure that they wouldn't say that if that choice could hurt their multi thousand dollar motor!

Some good points here, the engine builder should deff reccomend what oil your engine uses, and hopefully they know what they are talking about and not only going by what has worked for them but by what is the best for the life of that engine.

but thats what SWOLN was trying to explain the fact that we dont think there is a reason to building engines with such big tolerances anymore, except for some other reasons.
but like you said you pour a thinnner oil into a built engine it will prolly drink it all up,, however if the engine is build right it should be ok.

builders like AMS encourage AMSOIL they retail it and use it, also lucasenglish use these,,,, these are not the only people we have many racing teams outside of the evo community that use AMSOIL day in and out


Most builder will reccomend:

Old Jun 28, 2009, 10:38 AM
  #50  
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Thanks apagan01

Originally Posted by kouzman
I have never heard someone to build a motor and build it with tight clearances and the purpose of the build is to make power. If we are talking stock I would understand to run an oil such the 0w30 amsoil which I was running for the 12,000 of the 19,000 miles before I go forged.
I think mostly we haven't heard of engine builders running tighter tolerances, because looser tolerances are the way it's been done for years. No reason to change a good thing, kind of mentality.

Originally Posted by kouzman
you are trying to make 300 and 400 hp more than the stock motor then everything changes and clearances is one of the factors. The oil used is in accordance to that factor. I cannot imagine running the above mentioned amsoil now. The motor would burn it like it's a 2 stroke engine!
Maybe one of the thicker dominators.... We ll see...
Here is an example of what I mention above. The idea being that 20W-50 is great protection because it's thicker, and thicker adds a cushion if you will, and it does. Which is why it was used for all those years. "All those years" people were running good ole dinosaur oil. Well, there is new technology called synthetic oil, made from benzine, mostly and it tolerates heat better and has more lubricating qualities, even at lower weights. Now, if you could up the tension on the oil ring and the compression rings (which would normally accelerate the wear) you could keep the blow by to a minimum, and use the Alisyn 0w-20, or less, Amsoil, ect... You ever wondered if the reason so many people get blow by, is because the synthetic oils are so slick that it's letting it slip by the rings, and the reason it's doing that it because they work.


Originally Posted by kouzman
from the big engine builders should chime in... From the AMS camp, the Buschur camp, etc... The builder is the most appropriate person to chose the proper oil for their motors. For example if I remember AMS's break in instructions we are suggesting a non synthetic for the first 3000 miles
and the if you want you can change to a good synthetic... If you want... I am pretty sure that they wouldn't say that if that choice could hurt their multi thousand dollar motor!

I'm glad you brought this up. Why do you believe AMS suggests to no use synthetic before the 1st 3000 miles? It's so the dinosaur oil can create the friction to seat the rings. After the motor is broken in you can use synthetics... The synthetic will, without a doubt, lessen the wear and add longevity to the motor. It's the owners choice, but what would you do? Their build, with their tolerances, are set up with the oils specs they want, as you stated above. The idea is to get builders to realize they can alter their specs to result in cooler, smother, more powerful, motors.

I have a partial view of the auto industry and I think it went something like this. I'm not sure how accurate it is but, it seems logical. For a long time American car companies had the market on cars. Next in line were the German car companies, with the likes of Audi and Porsche. Taking what the Americans had and making it better(Partially I think it was going from standard to metric). Then the Japanese came along and made the German cars better. Every single time the adjustment was made it was to tighten tolerances. Shouldn't we make strides to advance the already advanced aftermaket ? Maybe I'm loony, I dunno.

Last edited by SWOLN; Jun 28, 2009 at 11:35 AM.
Old Jun 28, 2009, 10:52 AM
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some very valid points you make there ^
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