mystery problem! help diagnose
#17
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its the V5.10 rom. but currently its flashed to a completely stock ROM with the tune loaded on it (i.e. no map switching). this one doesn't have the fancy launch maps yet
the car is still on stock injectors, and both the alt map injector scaling and base injector scaling are 513.
update: found the source of the massive Richness. while trying to determine why the knock was happening the lower intercooler pipe decided to push the clamp off (hose was still on the pipe, just no clamp. i.e. massive boost leak. the boost leak test we did was right away when the knock was happening, we've done dozens of part throttle/full throttle to see why and it obviously blew the clamp off during that. this explains why it was getting worse and worse to the point of not being able to drive it. the car now has perfect AFR cruising and idling. and at WOT the AFRs are back to where it was tuned at.
also, the knock issue is not resolved yet . even though AFRs are good, when you hit the gas hard in neutral, the knock count jumps to 30+, but if you rev it slowly knock counts remain at 0. the knock counts seem to correspond to a nasty resonance in the pipes when revving the engine hard. since it is literally a straight pipe out the back, its LOUD. we are going to put the muffler back on and give it another try.
when doing 3rd gear pulls now, if you give it about 50%throttle to above 4k and then lay into it, the knock stays at 0 (exhaust doesn't make the resonance). but if you lay into it right away from 2-3k, it knocks almost immediately (25+ counts), even before boost peaks. we are definately crossing our fingers that it is the exhaust, but i'm not holding my breath
the car is still on stock injectors, and both the alt map injector scaling and base injector scaling are 513.
update: found the source of the massive Richness. while trying to determine why the knock was happening the lower intercooler pipe decided to push the clamp off (hose was still on the pipe, just no clamp. i.e. massive boost leak. the boost leak test we did was right away when the knock was happening, we've done dozens of part throttle/full throttle to see why and it obviously blew the clamp off during that. this explains why it was getting worse and worse to the point of not being able to drive it. the car now has perfect AFR cruising and idling. and at WOT the AFRs are back to where it was tuned at.
also, the knock issue is not resolved yet . even though AFRs are good, when you hit the gas hard in neutral, the knock count jumps to 30+, but if you rev it slowly knock counts remain at 0. the knock counts seem to correspond to a nasty resonance in the pipes when revving the engine hard. since it is literally a straight pipe out the back, its LOUD. we are going to put the muffler back on and give it another try.
when doing 3rd gear pulls now, if you give it about 50%throttle to above 4k and then lay into it, the knock stays at 0 (exhaust doesn't make the resonance). but if you lay into it right away from 2-3k, it knocks almost immediately (25+ counts), even before boost peaks. we are definately crossing our fingers that it is the exhaust, but i'm not holding my breath
#19
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before you change the sensitivity of the knock sensor i suggest flashing back to an old rom before the v5.11 where you know there is no knock. if that fixes it then it means you just have to adjust your knock tables. i would also suggest logging the knock sensor voltage just to see when you really get knock.
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before you change the sensitivity of the knock sensor i suggest flashing back to an old rom before the v5.11 where you know there is no knock. if that fixes it then it means you just have to adjust your knock tables. i would also suggest logging the knock sensor voltage just to see when you really get knock.
we did try old roms a couple times. definately not the rom, and definately not the tune. doesn't matter what rom or tune, it still has huge knock counts. therefore (IMO) adjusting the knock filters to eliminate the knock counts is a terrible idea, as if there is a problem, i'll just be masking it. i'm going to determine what is causing the knock counts, then decide if it is better to filter the knock/noise, or fix whatever it may be that is causing the knock.
#28
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Good luck with this! What I understand is you had these problems AFTER the timing belt change? Was ok before that?
Looks like there is a lot of parts/areas your looking, but if it was fine before the belt change, just look there first. I understand the hose popping off, that has happened to all of us. The battery need reset there after that change? I can't remember. In my opinion, if you walk in the Emergency Room with a Steak-knife sticking out of your ankle, Don't order an MRI of the shoulder first! Lol. Look at the obvious first. (Unless I misread the post, and it has been running like *** the whole time, and if so, disregard the rest of my post. Lol
I would definetly check that area period if that was the case. My car ran like crap (in the 3500-4500 range after I got my timing belt changed. It was from a mitsu dealership, and the mechanic/service Manager did the work.
After a few weeks of me driving it with a crappy "sweet spot" I started to rip serpintine belts and other things came apart as well.
We "argued" about something went wrong with the timimg belt change, he said now way, looked at everything, and the marks on the balance shaft were ON THE MARKS etc... He said it was my lopey 280 cams, and he wanted to put stock ones back in. WTF? We didn't, and it turns out the balance shaft was on its marks, BUT was "180 degrees off"
But besides running like crap in that RPM range, I also felt a vibration in the seat, and I thought it was my exhaust too, that must have moved when he changed the timing belt. Not sure if that would cause your problems or not, but its worth throwing out there for you good luck, and hope you figure it out. I've just about had every problem you could imagine with my car, so I feel for you, but don't sell the car in frustration, hang onto it, fix it, and enjoy it!
Looks like there is a lot of parts/areas your looking, but if it was fine before the belt change, just look there first. I understand the hose popping off, that has happened to all of us. The battery need reset there after that change? I can't remember. In my opinion, if you walk in the Emergency Room with a Steak-knife sticking out of your ankle, Don't order an MRI of the shoulder first! Lol. Look at the obvious first. (Unless I misread the post, and it has been running like *** the whole time, and if so, disregard the rest of my post. Lol
I would definetly check that area period if that was the case. My car ran like crap (in the 3500-4500 range after I got my timing belt changed. It was from a mitsu dealership, and the mechanic/service Manager did the work.
After a few weeks of me driving it with a crappy "sweet spot" I started to rip serpintine belts and other things came apart as well.
We "argued" about something went wrong with the timimg belt change, he said now way, looked at everything, and the marks on the balance shaft were ON THE MARKS etc... He said it was my lopey 280 cams, and he wanted to put stock ones back in. WTF? We didn't, and it turns out the balance shaft was on its marks, BUT was "180 degrees off"
But besides running like crap in that RPM range, I also felt a vibration in the seat, and I thought it was my exhaust too, that must have moved when he changed the timing belt. Not sure if that would cause your problems or not, but its worth throwing out there for you good luck, and hope you figure it out. I've just about had every problem you could imagine with my car, so I feel for you, but don't sell the car in frustration, hang onto it, fix it, and enjoy it!
Last edited by smokedmustang; Jul 19, 2009 at 05:59 AM.