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Car Sputtering, not driveable Looking for help!

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Old Jul 22, 2009, 08:52 PM
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Car Sputtering, not driveable Looking for help!

So today I was taking one of my friends out to look at another car he was planning on purchasing for his g/f. On the way we were at a light next to some random amg and he decided to get on it so I quickly followed. Upon accelerating in 2nd gear, about 5k rpm's the car just died almost as if a charge pipe had popped, only after the car dropped to 1200 rpm's and giving it gas it would no longer go. It just sputters around.

No check engine light
No abnormal smoke coming from exhaust
Reset ECU
Checked fuses under hood

All Pipes and sensors seems to be connected properly and snug (Just put the new intercooler and t-bolt clamps on all piping this past weekend).
Car idles and starts perfectly
Fuel pump seems to be on and running with ignition on. All injector plugs seem to be ok.
Car revs parked in neutral. Once you try to move the car in any gear it just bogs down if you give it any throttle above 1%. Park, back to perfect idle and revs, move back to sputtering at 5 mph.

Unplugging the Maf sensor plug at the intake allows the car to drive up to about 2200-2500 rpms (how I got it home).

Now my question is what happened, what did I do. What can I do check/try to resolve this issue

In case needed.
Mods: Buschur TBE (installed about 14 days ago, ETS 4" intercooler installed this past weekend, Perrin intake kit installed about a month ago). Car has no mbc or any other modifications as I was getting ready to order my tactrix cable for self tuning.
Old Jul 22, 2009, 09:17 PM
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most likely a boost leak....
Old Jul 22, 2009, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by godnf8
(Just put the new intercooler and t-bolt clamps on all piping this past weekend).
I suggest you take off your bumper and have a better look.
Old Jul 22, 2009, 09:51 PM
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I've checked all piping 20x over. Two of my friends have checked the piping. The car does not have the undertray installed so we were able to check all hoses/pipes. If it was a boost leak wouldn't it take throttle up until boost and proceed to follow on it's face? If you try to drive the car at all it will not take any throttle at all. With the maf unplugged the car will then take alittle gas.
Old Jul 22, 2009, 09:53 PM
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I would take off your filter at the maf and see what it looks like. These mafs are known for the honeycombs falling off. I'd try that and see what happens...
Old Jul 22, 2009, 09:56 PM
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that would take a pretty big leak to kill it like that did you check your maf?
Old Jul 22, 2009, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by godnf8
I've checked all piping 20x over. Two of my friends have checked the piping. The car does not have the undertray installed so we were able to check all hoses/pipes. If it was a boost leak wouldn't it take throttle up until boost and proceed to follow on it's face? If you try to drive the car at all it will not take any throttle at all. With the maf unplugged the car will then take alittle gas.
Try doing a boost leak test.
Just for troubleshooting purposes before the boost leak test, purposely remove the pipe going to the throttle body and see if its does the same thing. Who knows if you have a leak from a place that's not obvious. If it does the same thing, unplug the MAF and see if it allows you to rev up higher like before. If it behaves the same go throught the trouble to do a full proper boost leak test.
Check the MAF as well like the others mentioned. I'm surprised your car didint throw a cel/code when you disconnected your maf to drive it home.

Last edited by dxbtune; Jul 22, 2009 at 10:02 PM.
Old Jul 22, 2009, 10:20 PM
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Sorry, it did throw a cel when we disconnected the maf which we knew it would. It was not throwing a cel prior to unplugging that though when the car wouldn't take any gas past 1k. I'll take a look at it this weekend when I can get a chance to get out to the car. Have it parked at my friend's garage. I'll also try disconnecting the uicp and run right from throttle body to see what happens. Any other ideas besides these?
Old Jul 22, 2009, 10:32 PM
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have you pulled the spark plugs?
Old Jul 22, 2009, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by sharkm87
have you pulled the spark plugs?
Not yet. Didn't have the tools on the side of the road and roadside assitance wanted 100 bucks to tow it to my friends house unless I wanted to take it a to a dealership.

Plugs
Maf
Disconnect UICP at TB and try

Keep the ideas coming guys. Really appreciate it.
Been doing some searching through archives to see if I can find a similar problem, but haven't had any luck thus far
Old Jul 22, 2009, 10:42 PM
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well if u disc UICP at TB the car wont hold idle at all.....after boost leak test...its prob a failed part...maf//plugs or some other part

have u checked pending codes?
Old Jul 22, 2009, 10:42 PM
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I was thinking plugs too but you said that it allowed you to rev higher when unplugging the MAF.
I'm convinced its boost/vacuum related.
Doesn't hurt to check everything out though.
Old Jul 23, 2009, 02:38 AM
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just because the IC pipe connectors are on doesnt mean there couldnt be a hole in one or something. take them all off and look at them. looking up from the bottom of the car isnt gonna give you a good view of it all...
Old Jul 23, 2009, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by EvoJoeIX
just because the IC pipe connectors are on doesnt mean there couldnt be a hole in one or something. take them all off and look at them. looking up from the bottom of the car isnt gonna give you a good view of it all...
But if it was an IC pipe coupler or whole or w/e the case it would make the car unable to go past 1200 rpm's and sputter like crazy if you give it any type of throttle? The car does exactly as if you were running out of gas while driving the car except my car doesn't cut off. Any other time a leak popped up in the intake system whether it be a coupling or pipe popped off, the car still took gas and drove "normal" below 3k rpm's where no boost was present.

I also wouldn't think it was spark plugs due to the fact that the car can be revved to red line fine parked in neutral with no load on car. The issue only happens when trying to actually drive the car, but if it were plugs it would have the issue across the board?
Old Jul 23, 2009, 08:53 AM
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plugs take couple min to pull out...take a look at them, and boost leak


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