Car Sputtering, not driveable Looking for help!
#1
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 142
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car Sputtering, not driveable Looking for help!
So today I was taking one of my friends out to look at another car he was planning on purchasing for his g/f. On the way we were at a light next to some random amg and he decided to get on it so I quickly followed. Upon accelerating in 2nd gear, about 5k rpm's the car just died almost as if a charge pipe had popped, only after the car dropped to 1200 rpm's and giving it gas it would no longer go. It just sputters around.
No check engine light
No abnormal smoke coming from exhaust
Reset ECU
Checked fuses under hood
All Pipes and sensors seems to be connected properly and snug (Just put the new intercooler and t-bolt clamps on all piping this past weekend).
Car idles and starts perfectly
Fuel pump seems to be on and running with ignition on. All injector plugs seem to be ok.
Car revs parked in neutral. Once you try to move the car in any gear it just bogs down if you give it any throttle above 1%. Park, back to perfect idle and revs, move back to sputtering at 5 mph.
Unplugging the Maf sensor plug at the intake allows the car to drive up to about 2200-2500 rpms (how I got it home).
Now my question is what happened, what did I do. What can I do check/try to resolve this issue
In case needed.
Mods: Buschur TBE (installed about 14 days ago, ETS 4" intercooler installed this past weekend, Perrin intake kit installed about a month ago). Car has no mbc or any other modifications as I was getting ready to order my tactrix cable for self tuning.
No check engine light
No abnormal smoke coming from exhaust
Reset ECU
Checked fuses under hood
All Pipes and sensors seems to be connected properly and snug (Just put the new intercooler and t-bolt clamps on all piping this past weekend).
Car idles and starts perfectly
Fuel pump seems to be on and running with ignition on. All injector plugs seem to be ok.
Car revs parked in neutral. Once you try to move the car in any gear it just bogs down if you give it any throttle above 1%. Park, back to perfect idle and revs, move back to sputtering at 5 mph.
Unplugging the Maf sensor plug at the intake allows the car to drive up to about 2200-2500 rpms (how I got it home).
Now my question is what happened, what did I do. What can I do check/try to resolve this issue
In case needed.
Mods: Buschur TBE (installed about 14 days ago, ETS 4" intercooler installed this past weekend, Perrin intake kit installed about a month ago). Car has no mbc or any other modifications as I was getting ready to order my tactrix cable for self tuning.
#4
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 142
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've checked all piping 20x over. Two of my friends have checked the piping. The car does not have the undertray installed so we were able to check all hoses/pipes. If it was a boost leak wouldn't it take throttle up until boost and proceed to follow on it's face? If you try to drive the car at all it will not take any throttle at all. With the maf unplugged the car will then take alittle gas.
#7
Evolving Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: I'm Canadian living and working in Dubai/Kuwait/Bahrain
Posts: 499
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
I've checked all piping 20x over. Two of my friends have checked the piping. The car does not have the undertray installed so we were able to check all hoses/pipes. If it was a boost leak wouldn't it take throttle up until boost and proceed to follow on it's face? If you try to drive the car at all it will not take any throttle at all. With the maf unplugged the car will then take alittle gas.
Just for troubleshooting purposes before the boost leak test, purposely remove the pipe going to the throttle body and see if its does the same thing. Who knows if you have a leak from a place that's not obvious. If it does the same thing, unplug the MAF and see if it allows you to rev up higher like before. If it behaves the same go throught the trouble to do a full proper boost leak test.
Check the MAF as well like the others mentioned. I'm surprised your car didint throw a cel/code when you disconnected your maf to drive it home.
Last edited by dxbtune; Jul 22, 2009 at 10:02 PM.
Trending Topics
#8
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 142
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sorry, it did throw a cel when we disconnected the maf which we knew it would. It was not throwing a cel prior to unplugging that though when the car wouldn't take any gas past 1k. I'll take a look at it this weekend when I can get a chance to get out to the car. Have it parked at my friend's garage. I'll also try disconnecting the uicp and run right from throttle body to see what happens. Any other ideas besides these?
#10
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 142
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Not yet. Didn't have the tools on the side of the road and roadside assitance wanted 100 bucks to tow it to my friends house unless I wanted to take it a to a dealership.
Plugs
Maf
Disconnect UICP at TB and try
Keep the ideas coming guys. Really appreciate it.
Been doing some searching through archives to see if I can find a similar problem, but haven't had any luck thus far
Plugs
Maf
Disconnect UICP at TB and try
Keep the ideas coming guys. Really appreciate it.
Been doing some searching through archives to see if I can find a similar problem, but haven't had any luck thus far
#12
Evolving Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: I'm Canadian living and working in Dubai/Kuwait/Bahrain
Posts: 499
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
I was thinking plugs too but you said that it allowed you to rev higher when unplugging the MAF.
I'm convinced its boost/vacuum related.
Doesn't hurt to check everything out though.
I'm convinced its boost/vacuum related.
Doesn't hurt to check everything out though.
#14
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 142
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I also wouldn't think it was spark plugs due to the fact that the car can be revved to red line fine parked in neutral with no load on car. The issue only happens when trying to actually drive the car, but if it were plugs it would have the issue across the board?