Spec super twin disc install
Jul 26, 2009, 07:52 AM
#5
Mine came with 4 bolts for the tob. I'm sure they can be found at a decent hardware store though. SPEC's QC seems to be suspect considering the first clutch I got from them was machined incorrectly, and yours is missing hardware. Do yourself a favor and turn the pressure plate over and make sure the parts that clamp down on the flywheel are machined and not still annodized blue. Mine was never machined, and I had to pull the tranny back out to put a correctly machined pp in. That really pissed me off.
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Jul 26, 2009, 08:33 AM
#8
it looked machine properly. I had a very hard time getting the tranny in for some reason, After so many clutches this was the hardest install. I do admit this clutch is very quiet and has very light pedal It has absolutley no sound at all. I just hate the notchiness in the shifter, Im not sure if its the clutch or another problem.
Jul 26, 2009, 12:00 PM
#10
Have you adjusted the clutch pedal as far out as it will go? I had to do that and mine still doesn't want to go into gear because the clutch doesn't fully disengage. I am building a pressure bleeder right now to make sure I have mine bled properly. Let me know what you find, and I'll do the same, its driving me crazy and I'm worried I'm going to hurt the tranny.
Jul 26, 2009, 11:56 PM
#11
Have you adjusted the clutch pedal as far out as it will go? I had to do that and mine still doesn't want to go into gear because the clutch doesn't fully disengage. I am building a pressure bleeder right now to make sure I have mine bled properly. Let me know what you find, and I'll do the same, its driving me crazy and I'm worried I'm going to hurt the tranny.
Jul 27, 2009, 06:57 AM
#12
that's good to know, well not good but to know that i am not the only one with the problem is a relief. I was starting to think my tranny was going. I adjusted the pedal almost all the way out, there are probably about 2 threads left of adjustment. I have the motive power bleeder and I've bleed mine at least 10x. It seems to get better but its still an annoying problem. Im going to call spec tommorow to see if they have a solution. I know Quarter Master, the maker of the hydralic bearing recommends a new master cylinder but I thought the evo one would work well enough for the clutch.
Jul 27, 2009, 07:35 AM
#13
Stock MC is on the verge of being too small. As a result clutch adjustment and proper bleeding or essential to make this clutch work well. The notchyness will go away after a couple thousand miles (as the discs wear in). My clutch works very well now that there are some miles on it, but initially the clutch wouldn't fully disengage and would cause the car too move a little when first was selected from a dead stop. A bigger MC would correct this problem but until someone makes a 3/4" replacement (up from 5/8") the clutch will drag a little until the car wears in the discs.
Over extending the rod to try and combat this will lead to problems with the hydraulics so I'd advise against hyper extending the length of the clutch rod. The way I bleed them is to start with the rod at the stock length and then lengthen the clutch rod until you can no longer get the clutch to bleed - You will find that an over extended rod will not allow the MC to draw in fresh fluid as the pedal comes back up. Once this length is reached , shorten the clutch rod about a turn and lock it down. This will be the max you can lengthen the rod and still get a full pull of fluid when bleeding. After this preliminary adjustment, you shouldn't have to mess with it again. You will note that the car will want to move a little when engaging first and everything is cold. Shifting will also be a little notchy if you are trying to bang gears for the first 1,000 or so miles, but after a couple thou. this clutch will work great.
It is a very street friendly clutch and it can hold insane amount of power without all the chatter and rattles you typically find with a twin, but because the Evo's MC is a little too small, you willl have to put up with some notchyness initially. The pros greatly outweigh the cons. Just be patient with the clutch and you will find that it gets better with every mile.
Over extending the rod to try and combat this will lead to problems with the hydraulics so I'd advise against hyper extending the length of the clutch rod. The way I bleed them is to start with the rod at the stock length and then lengthen the clutch rod until you can no longer get the clutch to bleed - You will find that an over extended rod will not allow the MC to draw in fresh fluid as the pedal comes back up. Once this length is reached , shorten the clutch rod about a turn and lock it down. This will be the max you can lengthen the rod and still get a full pull of fluid when bleeding. After this preliminary adjustment, you shouldn't have to mess with it again. You will note that the car will want to move a little when engaging first and everything is cold. Shifting will also be a little notchy if you are trying to bang gears for the first 1,000 or so miles, but after a couple thou. this clutch will work great.
It is a very street friendly clutch and it can hold insane amount of power without all the chatter and rattles you typically find with a twin, but because the Evo's MC is a little too small, you willl have to put up with some notchyness initially. The pros greatly outweigh the cons. Just be patient with the clutch and you will find that it gets better with every mile.
Last edited by Drifto; Jul 27, 2009 at 07:38 AM.
Jul 27, 2009, 07:44 AM
#14
Stock MC is on the verge of being too small. As a result clutch adjustment and proper bleeding or essential to make this clutch work well. The notchyness will go away after a couple thousand miles (as the discs wear in). My clutch works very well now that there are some miles on it, but initially the clutch wouldn't fully disengage and would cause the car too move a little when first was selected from a dead stop. A bigger MC would correct this problem but until someone makes a 3/4" replacement (up from 5/8") the clutch will drag a little until the car wears in the discs.
Over extending the rod to try and combat this will lead to problems with the hydraulics so I'd advise against hyper extending the length of the clutch rod. The way I bleed them is to start with the rod at the stock length and then lengthen the clutch rod until you can no longer get the clutch to bleed - You will find that an over extended rod will not allow the MC to draw in fresh fluid as the pedal comes back up. Once this length is reached , shorten the clutch rod about a turn and lock it down. This will be the max you can lengthen the rod and still get a full pull of fluid when bleeding. After this preliminary adjustment, you shouldn't have to mess with it again. You will note that the car will want to move a little when engaging first and everything is cold. Shifting will also be a little notchy if you are trying to bang gears for the first 1,000 or so miles, but after a couple thou. this clutch will work great.
It is a very street friendly clutch and it can hold insane amount of power without all the chatter and rattles you typically find with a twin, but because the Evo's MC is a little too small, you willl have to put up with some notchyness initially. The pros greatly outweigh the cons. Just be patient with the clutch and you will find that it gets better with every mile.
Over extending the rod to try and combat this will lead to problems with the hydraulics so I'd advise against hyper extending the length of the clutch rod. The way I bleed them is to start with the rod at the stock length and then lengthen the clutch rod until you can no longer get the clutch to bleed - You will find that an over extended rod will not allow the MC to draw in fresh fluid as the pedal comes back up. Once this length is reached , shorten the clutch rod about a turn and lock it down. This will be the max you can lengthen the rod and still get a full pull of fluid when bleeding. After this preliminary adjustment, you shouldn't have to mess with it again. You will note that the car will want to move a little when engaging first and everything is cold. Shifting will also be a little notchy if you are trying to bang gears for the first 1,000 or so miles, but after a couple thou. this clutch will work great.
It is a very street friendly clutch and it can hold insane amount of power without all the chatter and rattles you typically find with a twin, but because the Evo's MC is a little too small, you willl have to put up with some notchyness initially. The pros greatly outweigh the cons. Just be patient with the clutch and you will find that it gets better with every mile.
Jul 27, 2009, 08:00 AM
#15
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Stock MC is on the verge of being too small. As a result clutch adjustment and proper bleeding or essential to make this clutch work well. The notchyness will go away after a couple thousand miles (as the discs wear in). My clutch works very well now that there are some miles on it, but initially the clutch wouldn't fully disengage and would cause the car too move a little when first was selected from a dead stop. A bigger MC would correct this problem but until someone makes a 3/4" replacement (up from 5/8") the clutch will drag a little until the car wears in the discs.
Over extending the rod to try and combat this will lead to problems with the hydraulics so I'd advise against hyper extending the length of the clutch rod. The way I bleed them is to start with the rod at the stock length and then lengthen the clutch rod until you can no longer get the clutch to bleed - You will find that an over extended rod will not allow the MC to draw in fresh fluid as the pedal comes back up. Once this length is reached , shorten the clutch rod about a turn and lock it down. This will be the max you can lengthen the rod and still get a full pull of fluid when bleeding. After this preliminary adjustment, you shouldn't have to mess with it again. You will note that the car will want to move a little when engaging first and everything is cold. Shifting will also be a little notchy if you are trying to bang gears for the first 1,000 or so miles, but after a couple thou. this clutch will work great.
It is a very street friendly clutch and it can hold insane amount of power without all the chatter and rattles you typically find with a twin, but because the Evo's MC is a little too small, you willl have to put up with some notchyness initially. The pros greatly outweigh the cons. Just be patient with the clutch and you will find that it gets better with every mile.
Over extending the rod to try and combat this will lead to problems with the hydraulics so I'd advise against hyper extending the length of the clutch rod. The way I bleed them is to start with the rod at the stock length and then lengthen the clutch rod until you can no longer get the clutch to bleed - You will find that an over extended rod will not allow the MC to draw in fresh fluid as the pedal comes back up. Once this length is reached , shorten the clutch rod about a turn and lock it down. This will be the max you can lengthen the rod and still get a full pull of fluid when bleeding. After this preliminary adjustment, you shouldn't have to mess with it again. You will note that the car will want to move a little when engaging first and everything is cold. Shifting will also be a little notchy if you are trying to bang gears for the first 1,000 or so miles, but after a couple thou. this clutch will work great.
It is a very street friendly clutch and it can hold insane amount of power without all the chatter and rattles you typically find with a twin, but because the Evo's MC is a little too small, you willl have to put up with some notchyness initially. The pros greatly outweigh the cons. Just be patient with the clutch and you will find that it gets better with every mile.