zbomb

iTrader: (48)

I just hit 495 on a DD with 93 and alky at 28PSI. May have been able to get there without the alky but it was on the car so for now it stays.

Kevin D's list looks good, I went with a HTA35R over a red... It's nice to hit big numbers without having to boost the bag out of the turbo, worth the lag tradeoff IMO.

Also, I'll be revving to just under 8K most of the time, I wouldn't worry about revs, with a 2.3 you get alot of usable power.
BR 2.3
BR 272's
BR Race IC
BR HTA35R .63
BR Double Pumper
BR Ported TB
+1MM Ferrera valves/springs/Ti retainers Non Ported head
DSG Aluminum IC Pipes and Intake W/HKS Filter
Tial BOV
DI Intake Mani
1000cc Precicion Injectors
3' Exhaust
Autronic SMC Tuned by Matt K from DSG
SMC Alky
Forge MBC
Exedy Twin
Stock Ignition
CBRD Rad
HKS Cam Gear

I'm sure all are not needed but it got me there.

red03evo

iTrader: (20)

Give Buschur racing a call and speak with Nick or Jrod. I'm sure either one of them can help you out and get you on your way.

Good luck with the build you decide on.

596736

iTrader: (15)

Lose a lot of weight on the car first. that will help if this is only going to be on pump gas. I know losing weight has nothing to do with you question but its free

Jasil

iTrader: (22)

If you were in the states I would say sell the car and buy one of the many already built cars for 25K that have 30K in them.

Since you're not Kevin D. had a good list stock block is fine for 450-500whp.

DaveK

iTrader: (21)

I've got a 2.3L with 10:1 compression stroker with a FP HTA35R with a 0.63 TiAL exhaust housing. Sure there's some lag, but at 5000+ feet of elevation, I'm making 25psi by 4500rpm, and it'll hold 30psi thru 7800rpm, so its a very useable powerband.

I'm on E85 fuel, and the setup on a Powerflow dyno did 580whp at 27psi with MIVEC not working, so I'm sure its over 600 now, especially since we bumped the boost another 3psi.

Dave

JohnBradley

iTrader: (30)

Waleed,

There are some supporting mods that you need that dont seem to be listed, and some that are that arent needed depending on what turbocharger/engine assembly you go with. A 2.2L will lend itself to increasing spool with the 10% displacement increase, and maintain a fairly high rev limit. If its a 4G64 based 2.2 then R/S is the exact same as the 2.0L and will allow for revs far in excess of 8500.

For a realistic street car though, a 4G63 based 2.2 and a turbocharger such as the Red or an HTA 35R will make that power. Torque (and the associated "snap") will really depend on total displacement. The 3586 HTA and 2.3 seems to spool and start making good power at about 4200 or so on an E85 car. The 3582 HTA is a few hundred RPM quicker. On gasoline they are a little later coming on. A 2.2 will also decrease this a little bit as well since its not quite as large.

What dyno are you going to use? There plenty of dynos that arent "cheater" dynos, so it comes down to terminology and brand. A Mustang can be configured to be a cheater dyno as can a Dyno Dynamics, DynaPack, etc. If you are looking for a Dynojet 500whp on 98RON, then you could do it pretty easily with a 2.2 and 3582HTA to maintain your torque number and hp goal.

A ported intake manifold and 65mm throttle body arent needed to do this. If you are looking to make the power I would use the following (not being brand specific, though I personally use ETS):

3" Turboback exhaust (required)
Quartermaster Twin or Exedy triple (required)
1000cc injectors (required)
Walbro 255 (required)
Tune (required)
3.5-4" Intercooler
3582HTA tubular header Turbo kit
GSC S2 Cams or equivalent
Valvesprings (required)

Optional would be a Speed density tune (if you have a JDM IX) or installing a MAP sensor if you have an EDM) for an additional 10-15whp. A Magnus Cast intake manifold allowed me to make another 45whp and didnt sacrifice any low end. My personal combination (the above with a 3586HTA adn Magnus) currently is just a 2.0L and hasnt been tried with my 2.2 yet. On the 2.0L it managed to hit full spool at about 5100 (28psi) and pulls very strongly to 8500. On a customers car with built bottom end the combination pulls very nice to about 9000rpm.

There are quite a few ways to do it and make the power so its not really a matter of right or wrong. As professionals some of us definitely have combinations that we prefer for a certain goal, but it really comes down to exactly how much power you want where. There will always be sacrifices somewhere, so laying out your goals a little clearer can help to sort out what you do and do not want. Things like Fuel choice, the aforementioned dyno, who is going to tune the car, what the car is being used for, etc. will go a long way in determining what parts really are right for you.

AznDragonV

iTrader: (14)

Dave, is there a reason you didnt go twin scroll?

btownsoccer22

iTrader: (6)

twinscroll 35r

DaveK

iTrader: (21)

I wanted the ability to swap a turbo in the pits in 15 minutes or less. A fully v-banded setup means 3 bolts to disconnect turbo from exhaust mani, wastegate, & downpipe. I still want to make dry break fittings on oil & water so its even quicker...just haven't had the time yet.

Dave

NitrousOxide

More opinions??? PLEASE!!! :P

JEP

iTrader: (2)

Trade in the evo for a zo6! Done...

NitrousOxide

Thank you for your wise answer sir!! I dont know why didnt I think like you from the beginning!!!

andrewzaragoza

iTrader: (6)

this is my vote. on pump gas you should be around the 550hp range.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...whp-576tq.html

you could still go red but not on pump gas. maybe add a meth kit if e85 is not available. with a crazy setup on a red this is attainable.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...whp-535tq.html