fixem2

iTrader: (30)

Another bit of information is that the Rotella-T is a Base III oil. No matter how a company spins it this is still a Hydro-processed conventiol oil. AMSOIl is a group IV true synthetic oil.

samurai85

iTrader: (5)

hmm, interesting. thanks for the info. anymore input for Rotella-T?

apagan01

iTrader: (299)

And that could very well be truth, only if the car will be driven long distances and intentions are to keep the oil in there for long long periods, however i have not seen anyone in the evo community drain at over 4k most are crazy like me and drain at 2k or less.

otherwise i do not se a reason why anyone could not run it in their DD, if something it will only help them preserve their motor with those high content of antiwear additives that any racing oil caries.

apagan01

iTrader: (299)

enough said

Motoxrider7

iTrader: (23)

so mobil 1 5-30 isnt any good? im about to put my built 2L together.

EvoDan2004

iTrader: (94)

its not that its not good as it is good oil but there deff is much better options out there.

Motoxrider7

iTrader: (23)

well, i want to get some good stuff. thats is reasonable on price.

Piro Fyre

iTrader: (23)

Oh no, they do ship to your door and such but I prefer picking up oil and doing it ASAP. Don't know, just me. I just wish there was a shop withing 20 miles that carry Amsoil but the closest shop is 40 miles away.

Has anyone ever did an oil analysis with Castrol Syntec vs Amsoil? My experience was just that the Castrol Edge one was darker while doing it at the same millage. But then again, I had the car sitting for 2 week because I was gone so I can barely count that.

sparky

iTrader: (1)

Actually, I wasn't only thinking of drain interval frequency when I stated that a racing oil might not always be the best bet for a daily driven application. Drain frequency is an important part of the overall picture. However, I was thinking more specifically about the relatively extended engine idle periods, and other low temperature operating conditions to which a daily driven motor is subjected, and the resultant increases in unburned combustion contaminants, H2O, harmful acids, and sludge, which degrade and ultimately breakdown the crankcase oil.

By definition, racing engines, and therefore racing oils, are not designed to idle for extended periods of time. They are designed for high temperature operating conditions. The specific detergent/additive/oxidation-inhibitor package for a racing oil may be totally different than the comparative additive package for an oil designed primarily for stop-and-go daily driving.

But you are right. The racing oil might be just fine if the drain intervals are kept relatively short. However in my case, my driving style is pretty much, "Old-Fart", featuring mellow, grannie shifting, so I might opt for the non-racing "Premium Protection" AMSOIL 100% synthetic product myself and shoot for longer change intervals. In fact, if I lived in the U.S. that is the engine oil I would run.

huevosrancheros

iTrader: (14)

mobil 1 10w-30

sparky

iTrader: (1)

I run Mobil1 myself, Huevos! However I run 0W-40. I have a ruptured lifter that taps at idle with 10W-30. In my country I can't buy AMSOIL. The only option for me other than Mobil1 is Motul.

PlanoEvo

iTrader: (2)

Well you could just look at the AMSOIL site and under dealer locater find a guy near you. It also helps if your near a dist. center as the dealer won't have to pay for the oil shipped to him. And even though the wix filter is a good filter for those apps that don't have an EA filter our cars do and why you wouldn't use the EA046 since its the best you can get....its flows better and filters better......

will05

iTrader: (2)

AMS Oil...

mega-z

iTrader: (13)

Mobil 1 0w-40w FTW!

project_skyline

iTrader: (30)

Mobil 1 or castrol syntec has kept my cars going just fine unders lots of abuse for many miles. Don't see the need to spend $40 extra bucks for oil that may or may not do anything for me in the long run.