Which turbo to gain 400hp atw on pump.
#1
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Which turbo to gain 400hp atw on pump.
Im trying to decide on a turbo upgrade and am finding it difficult to find a turbo that will comfortably make 400hp atw on pump fuel (98octane)with no meth etc.
I dont want the turbo to be laggy so a turbo which is close to its limits at about 400-450hp atw on pump is ok.
I currently have a fully built (EvoIX) 2.2lt JUN engine with all fuel mods exhaust comp etc. The current turbo being the FP Green is running out of flow at the top end therefore restricting my power level.
Off the top of my head:
JUN 2.2lt
880c injectors
perrin fuel rail
walbro 255lph fuel pump
HKS 272 intake and ex cams
HKS full exhaust
HKS twin plate clutch
Motec M800 ecu
FP Green (20g)
ported stock ex manifold.
Keep in mind this car is a daily driver.
Here is a current dyno graph, as you can see power flattens at about 5500rpm. Running 1.7bar of boost.
Any suggestion?
I am looking at a HTA35R, but fear it may be too laggy or a 3037s but fear that may come up short, power wise.
I dont want the turbo to be laggy so a turbo which is close to its limits at about 400-450hp atw on pump is ok.
I currently have a fully built (EvoIX) 2.2lt JUN engine with all fuel mods exhaust comp etc. The current turbo being the FP Green is running out of flow at the top end therefore restricting my power level.
Off the top of my head:
JUN 2.2lt
880c injectors
perrin fuel rail
walbro 255lph fuel pump
HKS 272 intake and ex cams
HKS full exhaust
HKS twin plate clutch
Motec M800 ecu
FP Green (20g)
ported stock ex manifold.
Keep in mind this car is a daily driver.
Here is a current dyno graph, as you can see power flattens at about 5500rpm. Running 1.7bar of boost.
Any suggestion?
I am looking at a HTA35R, but fear it may be too laggy or a 3037s but fear that may come up short, power wise.
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With the 2.2 red would be perfect. And give you room for more power too. Unless you want to go with a large turbo twin scroll setup. Which would give you more power than a red on pump gas.
#5
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hks 3037 seems to be the popular choice around here for around 500hp at the front... I think it will be plenty fast for a fast everyday car. if you like doing highway pulls and such a 35 or hks 3240 will also nicely fit the bill.
there is no perfect turbo, I love how larger turbos pull on the straight, but they are too much on/off for back roads. seeing you have a stroker with a smallish turbo I suggest you go for the 3037 which should comfortably do a tad over 400atw on DD at 1.7-1.8 bar.
If you are gonna order from the states, you could also do research on full race twin scroll turbos (35 size) - no personal experience with them...
there is no perfect turbo, I love how larger turbos pull on the straight, but they are too much on/off for back roads. seeing you have a stroker with a smallish turbo I suggest you go for the 3037 which should comfortably do a tad over 400atw on DD at 1.7-1.8 bar.
If you are gonna order from the states, you could also do research on full race twin scroll turbos (35 size) - no personal experience with them...
#6
I dont know how some of you suggest giant turbos while his request is sooooo transparent!!! Thats really crazy!!!
The guy already said "no lag", "daily driver", and you still suggest GT series turbos!!
Ami, if you want around ~450WHP then FP Red with .80 compressor would be the perfect choice!! However, you will have to sacrifice around 500+ rpm in spool!! with the 2.2 stroker, it will behave pretty much like a stock turbo with a stock bottom end(no stroker)
If you want ~400WHP then CBRD's BBK-full turbo is the very first choice!! It spools exactly like a stock turbo(like your current setup), while it produces ~400WHP on a low-reading dyno. Moreover, if you order this turbo, it will take 5 days max to get it while it might take you 6 weeks to get the Red.
The good thing about the BBK-Full turbo is the fact that it does not lose a lot of boost at higher RPM!! It goes really hard to 8000RPM which makes it one of the very best turbos on the market now!! Plus, CBRD(Chad Block) is one of the top vendors in terms of service quality.
Hope that helps
The guy already said "no lag", "daily driver", and you still suggest GT series turbos!!
Ami, if you want around ~450WHP then FP Red with .80 compressor would be the perfect choice!! However, you will have to sacrifice around 500+ rpm in spool!! with the 2.2 stroker, it will behave pretty much like a stock turbo with a stock bottom end(no stroker)
If you want ~400WHP then CBRD's BBK-full turbo is the very first choice!! It spools exactly like a stock turbo(like your current setup), while it produces ~400WHP on a low-reading dyno. Moreover, if you order this turbo, it will take 5 days max to get it while it might take you 6 weeks to get the Red.
The good thing about the BBK-Full turbo is the fact that it does not lose a lot of boost at higher RPM!! It goes really hard to 8000RPM which makes it one of the very best turbos on the market now!! Plus, CBRD(Chad Block) is one of the top vendors in terms of service quality.
Hope that helps
Last edited by NitrousOxide; Sep 22, 2009 at 05:57 AM. Reason: mis-spelling
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#8
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why not step up to a higher duration cam with a higher lift. you will make more power as the HKS cams are not very agressive and might be limiting your top end a tad. before everyone jumps on me i just want to point out i made 380(mustang dyno) on a stock turbo and fuel pump with cosworth M2 cams and all supporting mods on 91 pump gas. just a idea and a cheaper one if you wanna save a few bucks
#9
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I think the new FP HTA Green, BBK Full, or FP Red would more than suffice....Since you already have an FP Green, you may want to call FP and see how much more hp the HTA Green will yield (but I believe it is ~50hp over the old green)....Since you are only running to 7K, I think I would go with either the HTA Green or the BBK Full....
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+1. If I'm doing the conversion correctly, you're maxing at 24-25psi on the Green. You can definitely turn up the boost a little bit more, especially on 98 octane. And, as someone else has mentioned, more aggressive cams may also help with the top end to get that peak hp.
If you are set on a new turbo set up, I would recommend the FP Red to get you to your goals. Spool up, even on my stock 2.0L with FP4R cams, isn't bad and it keeps pulling until you let off to shift.
If you are set on a new turbo set up, I would recommend the FP Red to get you to your goals. Spool up, even on my stock 2.0L with FP4R cams, isn't bad and it keeps pulling until you let off to shift.
#13
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Guys, Ami was only able to make circa 300whp with a green turbo (around 400hp) - stepping up to a bbk/htagreen/(and most likely red) without changing the whole setup down to the cams / exhaust will not help him make another 100whp. If he wants another 100whp on top of his current setup, he needs to step up Leaving his setup aside, I do not think that a regular green or a bbk full will make real 400whp+ on the dd dyno he is using (which equates to 500hp+ at the front).
Ami, just to be certain - do you want a turbo that will make 400-450whp on a real DD Dyno which would equate to a 500-575hp car? In any case, if you want around 100whp more than what you have now on that dyno without changing your whole setup down to the cams / exhaust, you need to get a larger turbo period. 3037 is a good turbo that would work really well with a stroker on your pump gas which is close to 93 in the US...
Also, for your benefit check out MLR (UK based forum) - all the turbos mentioned above have been tried in the UK as well - it will give you another referance point. I remember 2 cases on MLR
- 460hp on BBK (well setup car run on Shell V-Power / 2 bar boost at peak down to 1.6bar at 7.5k)
- 500hp at with Red (V-Power with 10% meth in the tank / holding 2 bar / mapped by Jbanks (he is supposed to be really good) - you could look these up on MLR
PS: Not bashing the stock frame turbo's - I actually have a BBK Full myself and like it, but it would not be my choice for a stroker setup... I am making slightly more power than you on a stock 2.0 at 1.65bar boost on crappy 97 octane gas. Its a good turbo if you want a slightly stronger pull from 6k onwards on stock motor without added lag
Ami, just to be certain - do you want a turbo that will make 400-450whp on a real DD Dyno which would equate to a 500-575hp car? In any case, if you want around 100whp more than what you have now on that dyno without changing your whole setup down to the cams / exhaust, you need to get a larger turbo period. 3037 is a good turbo that would work really well with a stroker on your pump gas which is close to 93 in the US...
Also, for your benefit check out MLR (UK based forum) - all the turbos mentioned above have been tried in the UK as well - it will give you another referance point. I remember 2 cases on MLR
- 460hp on BBK (well setup car run on Shell V-Power / 2 bar boost at peak down to 1.6bar at 7.5k)
- 500hp at with Red (V-Power with 10% meth in the tank / holding 2 bar / mapped by Jbanks (he is supposed to be really good) - you could look these up on MLR
PS: Not bashing the stock frame turbo's - I actually have a BBK Full myself and like it, but it would not be my choice for a stroker setup... I am making slightly more power than you on a stock 2.0 at 1.65bar boost on crappy 97 octane gas. Its a good turbo if you want a slightly stronger pull from 6k onwards on stock motor without added lag
#14
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98 octane over there is like 92-93 in the states so 24-25 psi is good boost on a stroker on that little turbo
+1. If I'm doing the conversion correctly, you're maxing at 24-25psi on the Green. You can definitely turn up the boost a little bit more, especially on 98 octane. And, as someone else has mentioned, more aggressive cams may also help with the top end to get that peak hp.
If you are set on a new turbo set up, I would recommend the FP Red to get you to your goals. Spool up, even on my stock 2.0L with FP4R cams, isn't bad and it keeps pulling until you let off to shift.
If you are set on a new turbo set up, I would recommend the FP Red to get you to your goals. Spool up, even on my stock 2.0L with FP4R cams, isn't bad and it keeps pulling until you let off to shift.