I mentioned the issues that I had with the Swain coating flaking to Chad B and they have seem the same thing with the coating flaking on cast manifolds with cars that see heavy track use. Again, it was fine on my car for a couple of years of street driving. It was the track that made it flake down to the gray undercoating, on both the manifold and my turbine housing. For those who mainly drive on the street/drag strip or just do a light track day here and there, it's not going to be an issue.

 

Why not just go this route? So far no flaking/etc for me. Excellent price as well from MAP.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/se...egan-02-a.html

 

Wonder if there is any thremal shock merit to the raining in the hood vent theory. I have no experience with this particular coating and a car with a vented hood, nor directly exposed to the elements.

HOWEVER, any of you guys contact them after the stuff flaked? I've had the same happen on another coating mentioned here, but just chalked it up the the manifold being removed a couple times, and a no touch automated car wash or two.

Again, any coating from one of our reputable vendors here should suffice for Average Joe's purposes.

 

I like how this sounds as I've been looking at the Buschur jet coating option. I'm not fond of sending the manifold to Ohio and would prefer to keep things as local as possible. I might have to check out TCC in San Antonio as I'm stationed at Fort Hood.

 

Probably a good option for you then... xRoguex seems to have had good results thus far.

I really mis-spoke when I said "any coating". There are really very few actual "coatings" being used for the most part (SwainTech a side). Just lots of different people using them. This tells me that prep and application are really what set them a part. So what you want to look for is people with a good track record on their "work".

 

That is correct, how you prep the part and application are 2 major factors in a ceramic coating that "works" and one that doesn't. If you have your car painted with an expensive paint but the prep is not done properly, your paint will flake and have other issues no matter how expensive it is.

Look around and see what works and what doesn't.
Just as with anything else, you get what you pay for.

One thing to keep in mind is that the "chrome" ceramic is only good up to 1,200 deg F. This is something I see companies offering for turbocharged engines when temperatures will be in the 1,700 degree range. This chrome looks nice and pretty at the beginning, but will slowly turn colors and lose it's shine.

___
Carlos Tirado
Tirado Custom Coatings

 

A lot of the things we see at my work don't apply to your average tuner car so I'm not sure this would either but, we have actually had issues with some coatings that are really effective at containing heat in a part causing the combustion chamber to heat up enough to negatively effect the tune vs a non coated header.

Just a little food for thought.

 

Carlos,

As a consumer that's wanting to get a part coated, what can we do on our side, before sending it over, to prep the item being coated. I know that the company coating the part should absolutely prep the item, but I'm sure there are people like me whom are ****, and want to be certain we at least do our part.

Thanks.

-Jalal

 

Honestly,

There is really nothing a customer should have to do before sending in their part to be coated.
This is the same even if the part being sent in is used (carbon buildup). This will differ with companies though, as some will charge you more for used parts, or parts that have old coatings etc.

The way I see it, why charge somebody more for something that has to be done regardless if it's used or not

___
Carlos Tirado
Tirado Custom Coatings