TwistedEvo8

iTrader: (17)

Well I Was getting boost creep only in the winter, with the Ebay SS O2 housing. I have Intake and full 3" exhaust, No cat, Hallman boost controller at 19 psi. And Green Cone Filter on stock tube. So last week I took my car apart and pulled the Exhaust Manifold Hotside and o2 housing off... Broke 2 studs off on the Turbo hotside and after trying to get them out with every easy out or stud remover tool and heating them they wouldn't come out and I was forced to drill them out and re-tap the threads.. and I used 1/2 inch SS bolts insted of studs Never brake again...

I Gasket match ported the stock exhaust manifold and Ported the O2 housing wastgate side. I doubled the size of the hole its huge compared the the way it was.. and got rid of edges sticking up on the inside. I then Used Tech line Ceramic coating and coated the inside and out of the Exhaust manifold, Hotside, and o2 housing. I baked them and then reinstalled.
I also Picked up a Injen Upper and Lower ic kit at Englishtown swap meet for $20 bux. I spent the day powder coating them in my garage and installed them with the new coated exhaust parts I did earlier.

Over the winter of last year my boost creep was only spiking in 3rd a little and in 4th and 5th but that was when temps were around 30-40 degrees and it would only spike maybe 5 psi at high rpm. In the summer I never had creep with stock ic piping and ss o2 housing not ported.

Now After installing Ceramic coated Gasket ported Stock exhaust manifold, Ceramic coated 10.5 stock hotside, Ceramic coated ported Ebay SS o2 housing and Injen Full ic pipe kit. Im getting even worse boost creep. I turned my Hallman down a 1/4 turn expecting a raise in boost from the new ic pipe kit... In 1st gear it hit 17 psi and held to around 7000 rpm But in 2nd gear around 5500 rpm it stared to spike to 23-24 psi... I adjusted the Mbc again and tried it again. Same thing. It has never done this in the summer. Even with the non ported o2 housing.

I didn't take the MBC off to check to see if it hold wasegate psi yet to confirm its creep but im just confused its doing this after I ported the o2 housing out 2x the size and ceramic coated everything and added ic kit. I even plaid with the Hallman MBC to see if it was stuck or something.. Maybe my Hallman pro isnt holding?

Let me know what you guys think if you have had this prob or have and idea.

dipsetinallday

iTrader: (7)

I have a megan i ported the whole divided section basically to the welds if you do that with yours you should have no problems.

TwistedEvo8

iTrader: (17)

The port I made is way bigger then it was atleast 2x-3x the size. I ported from each side weld (devider wall) to the wall and from the bottom at the weld to about half way up to the wasgate side. That's at least 4x the amount of flow then the flapper it self. Forgot to take pics of the port job

dipsetinallday

iTrader: (7)

Actually turn you wastgate actuator a couple of turns counter clockwise. That should solve you problem of boosting too high, even though your mbc is turned all the way down.

TwistedEvo8

iTrader: (17)

Good idea! Ill have to try that tomorrow. Seems like its time to port the hotside... and maybe go bigger flapper.

dipsetinallday

iTrader: (7)

Port everything if you can on the hotside, it will only lead to hp gains. becareful though tap the hotside at the parts you porting so you dont make a hole through the hotside.

TwistedEvo8

iTrader: (17)

Im done porting my self. I will have the hotside done for me. I did my exhaust manifold/o2 housing with a dremel and it was not fun.. Air tools would of helped but didnt have them. Im just going to stick to ceramic coating and powder coating... A lot less metal stuck in my hands and arms...

dipsetinallday

iTrader: (7)

What works good is a router and it works fast with a long burr bit on it.

TwistedEvo8

iTrader: (17)

Yea at this point its cheaper to have it sent out.. To buy a router and burrs and w/e I need will run me way more then the shipping and price to get it ported. The SS o2 housing was easy since it was thin low grade Stainless so the dremel cut right through it. Its the thick cast that's a pain and it takes so long and makes a huge mess and all the shavings are like micro needles. They stick in your skin and you can barely see them.. Its been days now and Im still picking them out.. + they do it and its almost perfect so better off that way. If I had the stuff/tools it would be a different story.

biggie5252

iTrader: (47)

I used a rotozip and a rotary file. I also wore gloves and an old long sleeve shirt. I taped up where the gloves met the sleeves and the shirt promptly went into the trash when I was done. No metal splinters.

TwistedEvo8

iTrader: (17)

I did something like that i used leather gloves and a medical disposable gown made of a plastic. And a hat. I still ended up with them some how... Everything went in the trash and I cleaned up with my shop vac.

biggie5252

iTrader: (47)

I probably did get a few, but I did it once before wearing nothing and I was pulling metal out of my hands and arms for over a week. It was miserable.

TwistedEvo8

iTrader: (17)

tell me about it. In between your fingers and on the tips of your fingers so if you touch anything or move your fingers they ***** the crap out of you never again lol

TwistedEvo8

iTrader: (17)

well i backed the waste gate out half a turn at a time and tried a run I had to back it all the way off and then put it back on 1 turn to stop the boost creep O_o It seems to work great now. Turbo spools to 20 psi at 3000 rpm and then tapers to like 17-18 by 7000

I wonder If I just weld the flapper closed and weld a aftermarket waste gate onto the setup if that would work ahaahh Anyone ever done a aftermarket waste gate on a stock turbo?

dipsetinallday

iTrader: (7)

Did you port your turbo naked? I didnt have that problem, after i was done i vacumed my work table and floor.