Competition Clutch owners..
Oct 4, 2009, 07:20 PM
#1
Competition Clutch owners..
How are you liking your clutch so far ? Which stage/flywheel? Mileage ? Driveability ? What precautions did you follow to prevent any failure such as reusing the oem TOB and other components ? Just want to know your overall impression. Your input is appreciated.
Oct 4, 2009, 07:33 PM
#2
Stage 3 with their lightweight flywheel here and I like it. My only recommendation is that you purchase a new OEM Mitsu TOB (same goes for any clutch kit). I had a prototype and did have a TOB failure and a PP failure, but Comp did a great job taking care of me and has corrected all the issues. Definitely a stand-up company since they actually admitted error and corrected the problem rather than just blaming it on user-error like most companies do.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/se...-flywheel.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/se...-flywheel.html
Oct 4, 2009, 07:57 PM
#3
Stage 3 with their lightweight flywheel here and I like it. My only recommendation is that you purchase a new OEM Mitsu TOB (same goes for any clutch kit). I had a prototype and did have a TOB failure and a PP failure, but Comp did a great job taking care of me and has corrected all the issues. Definitely a stand-up company since they actually admitted error and corrected the problem rather than just blaming it on user-error like most companies do.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/se...-flywheel.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/se...-flywheel.html
Oct 4, 2009, 08:02 PM
#4
Yup, combine your stock 2 with the two they include (unless they're including 3 or 4 with their kits now). Its an extra precaution to keep the TOB from popping off the pressure plate. Exedy was actually the first to start recommending this.
What do you use for your car for? If you don't drag race then I'd recomend you take a look at the Stage 3 instead since it'll be a little smoother on the street and will last longer compared to the Stage 4. The ceramic pucks of the Stage 4 would definitely be your best bet if you're a drag racer though! I personally daily-drive my car with some autocross events during the summer.
What do you use for your car for? If you don't drag race then I'd recomend you take a look at the Stage 3 instead since it'll be a little smoother on the street and will last longer compared to the Stage 4. The ceramic pucks of the Stage 4 would definitely be your best bet if you're a drag racer though! I personally daily-drive my car with some autocross events during the summer.
Oct 4, 2009, 08:17 PM
#5
Yup, combine your stock 2 with the two they include (unless they're including 3 or 4 with their kits now). Its an extra precaution to keep the TOB from popping off the pressure plate. Exedy was actually the first to start recommending this.
What do you use for your car for? If you don't drag race then I'd recomend you take a look at the Stage 3 instead since it'll be a little smoother on the street and will last longer compared to the Stage 4. The ceramic pucks of the Stage 4 would definitely be your best bet if you're a drag racer though! I personally daily-drive my car with some autocross events during the summer.
What do you use for your car for? If you don't drag race then I'd recomend you take a look at the Stage 3 instead since it'll be a little smoother on the street and will last longer compared to the Stage 4. The ceramic pucks of the Stage 4 would definitely be your best bet if you're a drag racer though! I personally daily-drive my car with some autocross events during the summer.
I currently have the CCI stage 4. In the beginning it was great. But right now it chatters a lot. And by chatter I am not referring to the rattle sound that most people call chatter, I'm talking about hard engagement that causes the front end to shake hard. The only way to avoid it is to start off the line a little harder.
Also I am using the TOB that it came with and now regret it. Lately after driving for a little while the clutch pedal starts making this squeeky/metal to metal rubbing sound and feel. Its not the pedal or the line, but I'm thinking the throwout bearing.
During high RPM decel (decel while in gear), there is a lot of noticeable rumble sound. I think its the TOB.
I am going to be changing the TOB to OEM and at the same time my transmission with Shep trans. There is a slight whiny sound that oscilates and comes around after 35 mph. Mostly audible around 55 mph zone. I'm not sure if its the TOB or trans but it is resonating from the trans. But thats not why I got the Shep, its because of my 5th gear grind as well.
All in all, I do have to say I dont have any lock out issues. At least thats a one great thing and it grabs really hard.
I wonder if they cell just the stage 3 disk only. Maybe I might purchase that if its a cheap price.
PS this is my daily and only car.
Oct 4, 2009, 08:17 PM
#6
Yup, combine your stock 2 with the two they include (unless they're including 3 or 4 with their kits now). Its an extra precaution to keep the TOB from popping off the pressure plate. Exedy was actually the first to start recommending this.
What do you use for your car for? If you don't drag race then I'd recomend you take a look at the Stage 3 instead since it'll be a little smoother on the street and will last longer compared to the Stage 4. The ceramic pucks of the Stage 4 would definitely be your best bet if you're a drag racer though! I personally daily-drive my car with some autocross events during the summer.
What do you use for your car for? If you don't drag race then I'd recomend you take a look at the Stage 3 instead since it'll be a little smoother on the street and will last longer compared to the Stage 4. The ceramic pucks of the Stage 4 would definitely be your best bet if you're a drag racer though! I personally daily-drive my car with some autocross events during the summer.
Trending Topics
Oct 5, 2009, 07:45 AM
#8
Evolving Member
I have a stage 4 on my Evo8.
Drive ability is fine, it does bit harder than a stock clutch but once you get use to it it is like driving with a stock clutch.
The only time is really shakes, is when the car is cold and I am reversing out my "uphill" driveway... going forward with the cold clutch isn't half as bad as reversing.
No chatter here, just on the odd occasion the clutch will sometimes let out a "growl" as the friction material bites, happens about 5% of the time.
When the clutch was first installed, I noticed there was some shake/virbration coming through the clutch pedal and shortly after, the thrust bearing jumped out of place and the pedal stayed on the floor.
I know of 2 other people who had the exact same problem also with stage 4 clutches.
The local importer of the clutch, took up this issue with MAPerformance who in turn contacted Competion Clutch.
They then shipped out new improved "clips" which apparently fix this problem.
Drive ability is fine, it does bit harder than a stock clutch but once you get use to it it is like driving with a stock clutch.
The only time is really shakes, is when the car is cold and I am reversing out my "uphill" driveway... going forward with the cold clutch isn't half as bad as reversing.
No chatter here, just on the odd occasion the clutch will sometimes let out a "growl" as the friction material bites, happens about 5% of the time.
When the clutch was first installed, I noticed there was some shake/virbration coming through the clutch pedal and shortly after, the thrust bearing jumped out of place and the pedal stayed on the floor.
I know of 2 other people who had the exact same problem also with stage 4 clutches.
The local importer of the clutch, took up this issue with MAPerformance who in turn contacted Competion Clutch.
They then shipped out new improved "clips" which apparently fix this problem.
Oct 5, 2009, 04:53 PM
#10
Oh forgot to mention. The second day after I installed the clutch I also had the pedal stuck to floor problem. But with mine all I did was eventually slide my foot under and pop up the clutch pedal. Its never done that ever since.
Also I installed the clutch back in June. At the beginning it didnt chatter much but now it does. I'm just curious if its the TOB some how causing the chatter....
Also I installed the clutch back in June. At the beginning it didnt chatter much but now it does. I'm just curious if its the TOB some how causing the chatter....
Oct 5, 2009, 11:59 PM
#11
I have a CC stage 3 and an ACT prolite with about 1,700 miles on it. I reused the stock TOB since mine only had 14,000 miles on it. I had been tipped off to their TOB issues through this forum and I'm thankful. It's been working great. No issues so far, very smooth engagement and stock like pedal feel.
I think the basic idea behind the stage 3 lasting longer than the stage 4 is the difference in materials & design. The stage 3 is kevlar, stage 4 is ceramic. 6 pucks in general are less for longevity and smooth engagement more for max power holding and smooth shifting in hard racing situations. Chime in if I'm wrong but I doubt you'll be getting 50,000 miles out of a 6 puck or anything like that.
The stage 3 is more of a heaver duty stock style replacement that you can expect to get some milage out of if you don't abuse it too much.
I don't know if I'm much of a lightweight flywheel fan. Sure it's quick reving but it takes some finess around town and parking lots. It wants to stall occationally if you try to baby it too much. I might go back to the stock next time.
I'm still waiting to hear some reviews of the spec single disk kits. They have several. I didn't really notice them or they hadn't came out when I ordered mine. They look like a nice alternative. Their stage 2+ has a 500ft lb rating and it's a kevlar/carbon composite full disk.
http://www.maperformance.com/evo-vii...tch-kits-spec/
I think the basic idea behind the stage 3 lasting longer than the stage 4 is the difference in materials & design. The stage 3 is kevlar, stage 4 is ceramic. 6 pucks in general are less for longevity and smooth engagement more for max power holding and smooth shifting in hard racing situations. Chime in if I'm wrong but I doubt you'll be getting 50,000 miles out of a 6 puck or anything like that.
The stage 3 is more of a heaver duty stock style replacement that you can expect to get some milage out of if you don't abuse it too much.
I don't know if I'm much of a lightweight flywheel fan. Sure it's quick reving but it takes some finess around town and parking lots. It wants to stall occationally if you try to baby it too much. I might go back to the stock next time.
I'm still waiting to hear some reviews of the spec single disk kits. They have several. I didn't really notice them or they hadn't came out when I ordered mine. They look like a nice alternative. Their stage 2+ has a 500ft lb rating and it's a kevlar/carbon composite full disk.
http://www.maperformance.com/evo-vii...tch-kits-spec/
Last edited by JohnDoe1984; Oct 6, 2009 at 12:06 AM.
Oct 6, 2009, 04:51 AM
#12
I have a CC stage 3 and an ACT prolite with about 1,700 miles on it. I reused the stock TOB since mine only had 14,000 miles on it. I had been tipped off to their TOB issues through this forum and I'm thankful. It's been working great. No issues so far, very smooth engagement and stock like pedal feel.
I think the basic idea behind the stage 3 lasting longer than the stage 4 is the difference in materials & design. The stage 3 is kevlar, stage 4 is ceramic. 6 pucks in general are less for longevity and smooth engagement more for max power holding and smooth shifting in hard racing situations. Chime in if I'm wrong but I doubt you'll be getting 50,000 miles out of a 6 puck or anything like that.
The stage 3 is more of a heaver duty stock style replacement that you can expect to get some milage out of if you don't abuse it too much.
I don't know if I'm much of a lightweight flywheel fan. Sure it's quick reving but it takes some finess around town and parking lots. It wants to stall occationally if you try to baby it too much. I might go back to the stock next time.
I'm still waiting to hear some reviews of the spec single disk kits. They have several. I didn't really notice them or they hadn't came out when I ordered mine. They look like a nice alternative. Their stage 2+ has a 500ft lb rating and it's a kevlar/carbon composite full disk.
http://www.maperformance.com/evo-vii...tch-kits-spec/
I think the basic idea behind the stage 3 lasting longer than the stage 4 is the difference in materials & design. The stage 3 is kevlar, stage 4 is ceramic. 6 pucks in general are less for longevity and smooth engagement more for max power holding and smooth shifting in hard racing situations. Chime in if I'm wrong but I doubt you'll be getting 50,000 miles out of a 6 puck or anything like that.
The stage 3 is more of a heaver duty stock style replacement that you can expect to get some milage out of if you don't abuse it too much.
I don't know if I'm much of a lightweight flywheel fan. Sure it's quick reving but it takes some finess around town and parking lots. It wants to stall occationally if you try to baby it too much. I might go back to the stock next time.
I'm still waiting to hear some reviews of the spec single disk kits. They have several. I didn't really notice them or they hadn't came out when I ordered mine. They look like a nice alternative. Their stage 2+ has a 500ft lb rating and it's a kevlar/carbon composite full disk.
http://www.maperformance.com/evo-vii...tch-kits-spec/
Dec 2, 2011, 04:51 AM
#14
Newbie
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey guys any updates to these owners or new owners? Been searching but I could not find anything more recent so sorry for bringing back an old thread. I am looking for info on the stage 4 and the newer HD model.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Dec 6, 2011, 08:00 PM
#15
I have some info. It probably won't help you much since the clutch I own has been replaced by a redesigned model. I have the comp stage 3 kevlar with an ACT prolite flywheel.
I pretty much only drive my evo on weekends or occasionally during the week. I have a van for work and that's what I drive most of the time.
I've had the clutch now for about 10,000 miles. My evo is basically stock. It just has a fuel pump, exhaust, drop in filter, and a tune. 98% of the time it's just being babied around. I never launch it.
I arrive home last week. It was completely uneventful. I have a steep driveway so I pull up the driveway in first, into the garage, disengage the clutch, shake the shifter to neutral, and shut it down. Nothing weird happened at all, no noises, nothing.
The next evening I get into the car to leave and it won't go into gear. I'm sitting there like WTF? Engine off it goes into every gear fine. Engine on, nothing. Put the car in gear and try to start it, it lurches forward.
Logic tells me my clutch isn't disengaging. I had a little of a lazy pedal so I decided to put it on jackstands and bleed the clutch. Bled the clutch, adjusted the pedal.
I had my girlfriend get in and work the pedal while I watched the PP through the inspection hole. It works fine. The fork has plenty of travel. The TOB is still nicely set in the retaining clip. I can watch the PP open generously. It just never lets go of the disk. I can see no visual problem. The only thing left to do now it take the damn thing apart again.
I'll update this once I get it apart but I'm not happy. I'm really easy on my clutch and it was supposed to be some kind of heavier duty than stock replacement. 10,000 miles is a ridiculously short life.
I've done a bit of searching but it seems time to take the byatch apart again. It can't be anything else.
I'm guessing the disk came apart.
I pretty much only drive my evo on weekends or occasionally during the week. I have a van for work and that's what I drive most of the time.
I've had the clutch now for about 10,000 miles. My evo is basically stock. It just has a fuel pump, exhaust, drop in filter, and a tune. 98% of the time it's just being babied around. I never launch it.
I arrive home last week. It was completely uneventful. I have a steep driveway so I pull up the driveway in first, into the garage, disengage the clutch, shake the shifter to neutral, and shut it down. Nothing weird happened at all, no noises, nothing.
The next evening I get into the car to leave and it won't go into gear. I'm sitting there like WTF? Engine off it goes into every gear fine. Engine on, nothing. Put the car in gear and try to start it, it lurches forward.
Logic tells me my clutch isn't disengaging. I had a little of a lazy pedal so I decided to put it on jackstands and bleed the clutch. Bled the clutch, adjusted the pedal.
I had my girlfriend get in and work the pedal while I watched the PP through the inspection hole. It works fine. The fork has plenty of travel. The TOB is still nicely set in the retaining clip. I can watch the PP open generously. It just never lets go of the disk. I can see no visual problem. The only thing left to do now it take the damn thing apart again.
I'll update this once I get it apart but I'm not happy. I'm really easy on my clutch and it was supposed to be some kind of heavier duty than stock replacement. 10,000 miles is a ridiculously short life.
I've done a bit of searching but it seems time to take the byatch apart again. It can't be anything else.
I'm guessing the disk came apart.