Originally Posted by berns

yes, please do. i just read a bit and someone said with a swivel ratchet, it's pretty easy to take the wga out from undernear the car without removing anything.

Originally Posted by Hiboost

Some food for thought:

I've seen creep induced like this when you have a WGA cranked down with too much preload. Basically your base boost would be higher that way but the amount of travel restricts how much flow can get out that passage. The typical opening angle of the WG flapper is also restricting quite a bit of flow if you compare it to just an opening with no flapper. You did mention you turned down the boost to ~15 psi and that it only creeped a few psi which means that something is wacked with either the WGA or boost control setup you have. I would verify you have a full (and strong) boost signal reaching the MBC and that you don't have restrictors limiting the flow of pressure to the MBC, which may be too weak to move the WGA open. Also make sure the MBC is flowing the correct direction as all kinds of issues can occur if hooked up backwards! I'm not sure if you have a small bleed hole in the line after the MBC but before the WGA, but make sure it's not TOO big as that will weaken the signal and let the WG shut again with no control.

To find the minimum boost level that your physical WG passage & O2 housing can flow you could just run a boost source directly to the WGA and test at what RPM you start creeping and what the max psi reached was. Use a fresh line with no holes or restrictors in it so that the test is a valid snapshot of what your minimum boost actually is. Likely you will hit ~13-15 psi at lower RPM's but at some point it will creep in the mid to upper RPM's. If that ends up being 20 psi then you should be able to set boost for 20-25 psi with 1-2 psi spike at most and have it hold steady until you reach the flow limits of the turbo and then taper at higher RPM's.

Increasing the flow through the bypass side of the O2 housing may help but your description of having boost rocket up to 20 psi and then creep up to 25+ slowly is a warning sign that the signal to the WGA is the issue, or possibly the WGA itself. I've used the Forge WGA with a full signal line and MBC and had excellent boost control results on my Evo X, just make sure the bleed hole is just big enough to relieve pressure buildup in the line. The higher you are trying to raise it above the WGA's natural opening pressure the larger the hole, just start smaller and slowly increase. Going too small (or no bleed hole) will actually keep your WGA open with trapped boost pressure between shifts and you will feel the lack of spool.

Now I use an ATP O2 DP that has a Tial 44mm WG so my boost control is even more stable, but I mainly went that route because my internal WG failed due to a design issue with the Evo X GT30 turbos.

Hope that helps!

Originally Posted by berns

there are no hidden restrictions.. The boost lines to and from the wga, boost controller, compressor nipple etc... they are all new.

Originally Posted by berns

my car is still the same, and the issue still seems more severe than what most people are experiencing.

I work a lot and just haven't cared enough to really dig into it. I imagine it's the wga, there's really no other possibility at this point. I just turned my mbc down to the point where I can go WOT in 6th gear and not boost more than 26psi, which basically means, at WOT running through the gears to redline, I'm really hitting around 21psi and tapering down from there, meaning, where my boost is when I shift at redline to the next gear etc...