JohnBradley's 2.2 long rod build
Jul 7, 2010, 09:46 PM
#423
Evolved Member
what about just moving up the size of exhaust housing and adding a water cooled 44mm gate ? 
I also think the non cdi would put you above 800 too, just because someone isn't getting blowout doesn't mean they won't pick up power and the ability to add more timing especially with the slower burning e85, no aaron?
I also think the non cdi would put you above 800 too, just because someone isn't getting blowout doesn't mean they won't pick up power and the ability to add more timing especially with the slower burning e85, no aaron?
Jul 8, 2010, 12:25 AM
#426
what about just moving up the size of exhaust housing and adding a water cooled 44mm gate ?
I also think the non cdi would put you above 800 too, just because someone isn't getting blowout doesn't mean they won't pick up power and the ability to add more timing especially with the slower burning e85, no aaron?
I also think the non cdi would put you above 800 too, just because someone isn't getting blowout doesn't mean they won't pick up power and the ability to add more timing especially with the slower burning e85, no aaron?
Jul 8, 2010, 09:15 AM
#427
I believe you said this was a street car and that you weren't drag racing much now so go and have a BLAST with it on the streetz
Jul 8, 2010, 02:59 PM
#431
Evolved Member
If you are at MBT all you add is cylinder pressure with more timing. The car doesnt make anymore with 2 more degrees than it has now (18*). I think Aaron explained about the Non Cdi pretty well, it has its place but "making" power vs supporting power is a fine line.
Carmi
Aug 5, 2010, 10:37 PM
#433
I just found this thread and read all 29 pages. Took me awhile but a lot of good info. A couple ?s I have. Why did you switch to a lower compression ratio with the 2.4? Just because you had the current piston in stock? Also I am looking at getting a hta Green would the 2.2LR be an ideal motor for this turbo on a road race/ auto x car?
Can you tell in revs with the heavier rotating assembly?
Can you tell in revs with the heavier rotating assembly?
Sep 30, 2010, 10:26 PM
#434
Sorry it took so long to answer your questions but I had almost forgot about this thread 
I dropped the compression for a rather odd reason but a good one never the less. A 9:1 piston weighs less since the crown isnt as thick for a given compression height. The other thing is the 2.4 was an 86.5mm piston so its more or less a 2.3 piston with custom dish which gets made alot faster.
I think a 2.2 and a Green would be a good combo for the street, especially when you run a more "standard" 156mm rod. The 2.4 actually feels like its revs quicker, which is in part due to the fact its making more power as well. The actual reciprocating weight is not noticeable when revving the engine though.
aaron
I dropped the compression for a rather odd reason but a good one never the less. A 9:1 piston weighs less since the crown isnt as thick for a given compression height. The other thing is the 2.4 was an 86.5mm piston so its more or less a 2.3 piston with custom dish which gets made alot faster.
I think a 2.2 and a Green would be a good combo for the street, especially when you run a more "standard" 156mm rod. The 2.4 actually feels like its revs quicker, which is in part due to the fact its making more power as well. The actual reciprocating weight is not noticeable when revving the engine though.
aaron
Sep 30, 2010, 11:22 PM
#435
Just a question, as i'm in the process of building a 2.4 4g64 me too, is the idea of building a rotating assembly as light as possible, with a lightweight crank, maybe titanium rods ( approx 410 gr for a 156 mm unit ) and light pistons, only a waste of money or there would be some advantages in terms of durability and ability to rev easier? Are there any cons building a very light assembly?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.