Help: Clutch Pedal Vibrating Violently
#1
Help: Clutch Pedal Vibrating Violently
EDIT: SOLUTION FOUND post # 8
Just got done installing Shep Trans (street strip build evo 8 trans with 9 1st gear). Also we put in a CCI stage 3 clutch and new OEM TOB.
Now the clutch pedal is vibrating really bad. If I press in the clutch to the floor, the vibration is no longer present or felt. Also I had to adjust the clutch pedal really high and still the clutch grabs really low. If I try to adjust the pedal low, it wont go into gear because its not disengaging the clutch completely.
Although the clutch pedal vibrates soo agressively, there arent any unusual sounds present other than the pedal rattling.
Any ideas what it could be?
Just got done installing Shep Trans (street strip build evo 8 trans with 9 1st gear). Also we put in a CCI stage 3 clutch and new OEM TOB.
Now the clutch pedal is vibrating really bad. If I press in the clutch to the floor, the vibration is no longer present or felt. Also I had to adjust the clutch pedal really high and still the clutch grabs really low. If I try to adjust the pedal low, it wont go into gear because its not disengaging the clutch completely.
Although the clutch pedal vibrates soo agressively, there arent any unusual sounds present other than the pedal rattling.
Any ideas what it could be?
Last edited by BluEVOIX; Oct 19, 2009 at 08:52 PM.
#3
Do you think this would also cause the really low engagement point?
My car is my daily driver and I cant afford any down time. From your experience/knowledge, do you think I can get away with driving like this for a week before I can change it?
#4
hard to say what you will find when you pull it back out. being that it is a fresh clutch set. it wont hurt to drive it if it is not slipping. about 95% sure it is causing the engagement/disengagement points to be off.
usually this means something happen to the disc and it is not equal thickness all around. this causes pressure plate fingers to be at different heights. but in your case you may have a problem with PP as well.
usually this means something happen to the disc and it is not equal thickness all around. this causes pressure plate fingers to be at different heights. but in your case you may have a problem with PP as well.
Last edited by 94AWDcoupe; Oct 19, 2009 at 08:08 AM.
#5
I had a similar problem with the Stage 4 CCI clutch.
Shortly after the problem started the release bearing jumped out which resulted in the clutch pedal staying on the floor.
Same thing happened to 2 other people I know of with the same clutch.
CCI is aware of the problem and have new "clips" which hold the bearing in place. Once these new clips were fitted, clutch was 100% and is still fine after 20K km's.
Speak to your supplier about these clips.
Hopefully it helps you out.
Shortly after the problem started the release bearing jumped out which resulted in the clutch pedal staying on the floor.
Same thing happened to 2 other people I know of with the same clutch.
CCI is aware of the problem and have new "clips" which hold the bearing in place. Once these new clips were fitted, clutch was 100% and is still fine after 20K km's.
Speak to your supplier about these clips.
Hopefully it helps you out.
#6
I thought they fixed the new clips? I just ordered this one last week.
So in your case the pedal would also vibrate? Well actually vibrating pedal is an understatement. This thing actually rattles really hard. And the engagement point is soo low, I even adjusted the pedal all the way out where there are no more threads showing out.
So in your case the pedal would also vibrate? Well actually vibrating pedal is an understatement. This thing actually rattles really hard. And the engagement point is soo low, I even adjusted the pedal all the way out where there are no more threads showing out.
Trending Topics
#8
Ok found the solution!!!
Took a look through the peep hole under the trans and found this:
The clip on the TOB did not sit over the TOB correctly. So with a screw driver and some cranking of the motor and more trial and errors we finally got it to sit correctly.
The car drives fine now. Right after the clutch started to feel harder now similar to stock, because it also felt very very soft. On top of that the engagement point went way up high so I adjusted the clutch to where I want it to be.
Thanks for the input guys. Hopefully if someone has similar issues in the future, this thread will help them.
Took a look through the peep hole under the trans and found this:
The clip on the TOB did not sit over the TOB correctly. So with a screw driver and some cranking of the motor and more trial and errors we finally got it to sit correctly.
The car drives fine now. Right after the clutch started to feel harder now similar to stock, because it also felt very very soft. On top of that the engagement point went way up high so I adjusted the clutch to where I want it to be.
Thanks for the input guys. Hopefully if someone has similar issues in the future, this thread will help them.
#9
Put some more daily miles and everything is great. No chatter, smooth engagement, stock pedal feel. This clutch is pretty good (CCI stage 3). No launches yet only 40 miles on it lol.
#10
i want to know with the screw driver what did you do ( just pushing it up and side to side rotating the motor to get it sit in correctly how did you secure the tob to the pressure plate from it poping out )
#11
We didnt really secure the tob because to pull it out you need to push the tob towards the pressure plate before you can pry for removing.
First we took the slave cylinder out to remove any tension on the tob. My friend was using a flat head screw driver in a twisting action to straighten out the tob. He was placing the screw driver tip right between the pressure plate clip, where the spring S spring sits.
He was twisting to pry it out and I was pushing down the button behind the clutch pedal and at the same time half cranking the car. Basically I would flick the key to start real quick so it cranks the car in a quick burst but not enough to start it. We did this simultaneously to enenly straighten it out.
So in short we did pry, crank, pry, crank etc... until it was straight all around.
Hope this makes sense.
First we took the slave cylinder out to remove any tension on the tob. My friend was using a flat head screw driver in a twisting action to straighten out the tob. He was placing the screw driver tip right between the pressure plate clip, where the spring S spring sits.
He was twisting to pry it out and I was pushing down the button behind the clutch pedal and at the same time half cranking the car. Basically I would flick the key to start real quick so it cranks the car in a quick burst but not enough to start it. We did this simultaneously to enenly straighten it out.
So in short we did pry, crank, pry, crank etc... until it was straight all around.
Hope this makes sense.
#12
This is commonly referred to as the "90% DSM rule" In DSM circles 90% of problem threads are the results of some one working on car and causing a problem. The parts were not at fault here. just poor mechanic hands. glad you got it working. you will be lucky if that clip doesnt pop out on you .
#13
This is commonly referred to as the "90% DSM rule" In DSM circles 90% of problem threads are the results of some one working on car and causing a problem. The parts were not at fault here. just poor mechanic hands. glad you got it working. you will be lucky if that clip doesnt pop out on you .
#14
Sorry for bring up such on old thread, but i just i got a new brand new clutch kit installed on my evo 8 and its showing similar symptoms.
Is it possible for you to repost the pic of the TOB clip? It would be deeply appreciated.
Is it possible for you to repost the pic of the TOB clip? It would be deeply appreciated.