wizzo 8

iTrader: (35)

You should do what I'm going to do. Pull the motor yourself and give the short block to whoever you decide is going to build it. Have them do the machine work and put the crank, rods and pistons in.

Mellon Racing

iTrader: (38)

#2 is a littler lower than the others but I wouldn't think that's enough to cause smoking necessarily. There are guys with much less compression running around making good power. Is it smoking at idle or only on decel?

binky

iTrader: (11)

Hey Wizzo - did something happen to your motor? What will you be building? 2.0L? 2.4L, etc?


Hey Chris,

It doesn't smoke when you first start the car. It starts to smoke about 30 minutes after the car has been on, whether that be driving around town in stop and go traffic, or driving on the highway. It smokes while in gear, it smokes at idle (even though its harder to tell). It originally only smoked in between shifts, now its straight up embarrassing to drive the car because once it starts to smoke, it smokes bad.


I don't think its the turbo, I took the intake off and looked at the fins and they are not hitting, there is hardly any shaft play and it spins freely. I figured after doing the compression test that it had to be a ring.


-Bink

wizzo 8

iTrader: (35)

No no yet. Knock on wood. I'm saving for a rebuild though before I get a rod through the block. I'm hitting the strip next month so this will be the last time the stock block gets abused. Hopefully it stays together. My plan is to pull the motor in the spring time to have it built. Still haven't decided on size yet. As of now I will most likely stick with 2.0 but if I save enough I will maybe get it stroked to 2.3 Max.

DFelton

iTrader: (4)

Man, that's some bad luck. Silver lining on that cloud is it will be bullet proof when your done if you do it right!

binky

iTrader: (11)

Knock on wood, definitely
I am going to save every penny now and try and build it over the winter. I am going to stay at 2.0 as well (I like to rev it high) - well that's the plan for now anyway.

Yeah....it definitely sucks But your right, if I do it correctly, it should last a long time


-Bink

Mellon Racing

iTrader: (38)

did you already mention the color of the smoke? and the smell?

binky

iTrader: (11)

Hey Chris,

The smoke has a blue hue to it.

Not sure how to describe the smell....It smells bad- like something is burning / on fire - with a mix of unburnt fuel in it as well.


-Bink

binky

iTrader: (11)

Alright guys....I need ideas / opinions.


I am going to build the motor and head.

Here is what I've come up with so far for options:


1) AMS 2.0 Shortblock + AMS Head + AMS F1 Intake Manifold

2) Buy the AMS advanced re-build kit and have my mechanic or a machine shop or some place like Boucher's Racing Engine's put it together and have the head ported and polished by MAPerformance with new valves/stems/seals and Kiggly Springs and retainers + AMS F1 Intake Manifold

3) Buy an AMS long block

4) ?? What else can / should I do?

No matter what I would like to stick to Manley Turbo Tuff I-Beams, AMS Ross spec pistons (or Wiesco HD's 9.0 Compression), stock crank shaft, AMS Race balance shaft delete kit, clevite main bearings, and use all ARP hardware (except for the headstuds, I am going to use the AMS L19 studs) and the AMS F1 Intake Manifold.

How should I go about doing this?
Should I pull the motor and head and send the parts off to their respective places? Have my mechanic help or do it all for me?

Any ideas, thoughts or suggestions are welcome

I should also add - I am in no rush. I need to save money before I do anything.




Thanks!

-Bink

Acree

iTrader: (8)

I know AMS has amazing engines, but you pay quite a premium. The question is how much of the premium is worth it.

Don't forget about MAP and ER both being viable options for very well built engines for good prices.

-Acree

RockmanX

iTrader: (78)

ILL have to agree with my hommie above blinky you can send your motor down here to JMS Racing and they can build and do machine work of course a 2.0 or 2.3 and be equal to the AMS BR MAP ER etc. I mean your paying a premiun for the name and the motor will preform the same. If I were you SINCE THIS IS A STREET CAR. you need to stroke the motor plain and simple you have been on 2.0 long enough. there are several built motors for sale that you could take apart check out and replace parts or even have your built. some of that money your talking about spending to me is a waste of funds and all hype I would love to talk to you on the phone about this as i find killer deals for a living LOL. I think the very very very very first step is save 2000-3000 first no sense in jumping on the band wagon now with NO funds. AS i told you earlier a bad motor is good and bad if your prepared for it hell ya if not then NO go i was in between yet my motor was not bad car was acting up and I did not know why so i planned for worse case senerio hints my build when in actually it might have just been my head but does not matter now all the **** is gone. only orginal peace is a/c and wiring harness and battery.

binky

iTrader: (11)

Alright....in response ^

I just called MAP and spoke with Chris.
I really like what he had to say. He actually may have persuaded me to go with the 2.4L

If I go with MAP - I am going to have them build my block / head / and port my intake mani with their rev3 porting and polishing service.


What do you think?



-Bink

Acree

iTrader: (8)

That sounds strikingly similar to what I'm having done!

-Acree

RockmanX

iTrader: (78)

I personally like ER when it comes to built 2.4 block and there results speak for themselves. The head thats cool with the map job i have really not seen a reason for the price to dollars with there rev 3 but i have several buddies on here with it and they like it so cant be bad. i would be willing to let map do everything but the shorty and let ER take care of the shorty 2.4 build to be honest with you

binky

iTrader: (11)

Seems like the best option for me. Just need to save my pennies now


-Bink