konstantinosIX

Hello,
I have a problem with my clutch and the thrust bearings.
I have a heavily modified Evo.

Engine mods:
2.0lt ,
K1 crank,
Cosworth rods with Custom age 625+ bolts
JE BR specs pistons,
Cosworth head,
Tomei 280 cams,
4 channel Sparktech COP,
Motec M800 ECU,
PT6765 turbo kit,
HKS Kansai manifold with Q45 TB,
HKS 4" IC
ACL Race series bearings
etc,etc.
Shep trans 5 speed
Shep transfer w/ LSD,
Shep RS from EvoIX diff w/ cusco LSD,
DSS axles.

I am using an Exedy triple Carbon clutch kit.
I did only 4500 miles after the engine rebuilt (1500miles break in period and 3000miles street driving) and only 2 dragstrip passing (on the street/no glue).

I was checking the bottom end of my motor and I realize that the clutch was over and needed a rebuilt!!! It did only 4500 miles with no pressure!!!
Also the thrust bearings was having scratches!!!

Why this was happening to clutch and bearings?
Did I or my mechanic do something wrong?

The Exedy part number of the carbon clutch is MM023HBMC the one with the hard plate.

Sorry for my english grammar faults.

3gturbo

iTrader: (4)

You mean throwout bearing ?

konstantinosIX

No, I mean thrust bearings for the crank.

CO_VR4

iTrader: (83)

The thrust bearing issue is usually clutch related. Search the list for "crankwalk."

Some aftermarket clutches put much more pressure on the crank end to end than the stock clutch was designed to do. That was a well known situation in the 4g63 motors from the 2g DSM era.

You'll also find that carbon clutches have the characteristic of wearing much faster in street use than an organic clutch does. Search and you'll see how many people with Tiltons have the same story. If you don't need a carbon clutch for exclusively racing use, don't get one for the street at all.

konstantinosIX

Now I have in my hands an Exedy triple carbon with hard plate that need rebuilt.
I want to buy an AMS/Exedy push type triple metallic clutch kit.
What do you suggest me to do?
To take parts and transform this one to push style triple metallic or get a new AMS push triple metallic?
Which solution is more cheaper for me?

buchnerj

iTrader: (19)

Transform that one to the push style. Cheaper, and the Exedy is quite reliable, not saying that the AMS isn't, but you already have the Exedy on hand, why not rebuild it?

konstantinosIX

Yes,but... this is carbon and it doesn't last as the cerametallic.
I was thinking if it is cheaper to buy the AMS triple metallic push kit + 3 metallic discs

JohnBradley

iTrader: (30)

Konstantinos- what was the actual thrust measurement? Scratches and some wear wouldnt necessarily worry me without knowing what the total thrust is. Do you know what it was setup at when you built the motor? There is always the chance it hasnt changed from initial build, it was just loose to begin with. We havent seen any signs of thrust issues in Evos that couldnt be explained from oil starvation on the center main and then the thrusts get waxed right after. What did the main bearings look like and the center main journal?

konstantinosIX

The rebuilt was done 600 miles before.
All the parts was brand new.
We did 3 mineral oil and oil filter changes and we check the bottom engine to see if the bearings was ok before we use synthetic oil and boost the turbo.
We saw the first cylinder rod bearing been a bit smaller (the upper bearing it was impossible to lock inside to the rod because it was smaller but the down rod beairing was OK) and we also saw that the half coating went off!
The thrust was also had scratches and today my mechanic told me that my clutch need a rebuilt. (I did only 4500 miles!!! no pressure at all!!!!)

My mechanic told me that rod bearing issue was from the oil starvation because the crank journal was out of round for 0.00047" .... and the thrust issue was from the clutch that needs rebuilt!!!!


My previous engine was rebuilt because again from thrust total failure!!! after 4000 miles!!!!

Something is going on here.... but I don't know what....