Forced Performance Turbos - Compressor Cover Leak Notice
Nov 28, 2009, 06:28 PM
#1
Forced Performance Turbos - Compressor Cover Leak Notice
Everyone knows Forced Performance has turned out some great turbos. I own one, and I am a strong advocate of their work. However, something has come to my attention that anyone who owns one, or plans to own one should know.
I have an HTA3582. Drifto has an HTA3076. I have the previous style of compressor cover, he has the present style. The one thing we both have in common is that our compressor covers both leak at the base - each badly enough to warrant attention. Mine appears to be especially bad, and revealed itself as a fairly audible rush of air when pressurized above 20psi.
The fix (which he has already done) is to simply remove the cover, and replace with a good bead of Permatex gray acting as a gasket. Do this whether or not your cover has an o-ring, as they both seem to leak equally. With this easy piece of insurance, you can be assured of not having a leak that is no fun to fix after the turbo is installed.
FYI
I have an HTA3582. Drifto has an HTA3076. I have the previous style of compressor cover, he has the present style. The one thing we both have in common is that our compressor covers both leak at the base - each badly enough to warrant attention. Mine appears to be especially bad, and revealed itself as a fairly audible rush of air when pressurized above 20psi.
The fix (which he has already done) is to simply remove the cover, and replace with a good bead of Permatex gray acting as a gasket. Do this whether or not your cover has an o-ring, as they both seem to leak equally. With this easy piece of insurance, you can be assured of not having a leak that is no fun to fix after the turbo is installed.
FYI
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Nov 29, 2009, 06:42 AM
#13
I was doing a little 93 octane tune and ran into an issue. I thought I had everything sorted, and then I observed this:
G = rpm
AE = boost
AT = 2-byte load
AW = airflow
Observe how boost pressure drops almost 10 psi from 6000 to 7000 rpm. I had to turn the GM 3-port solenoid to 100% WGDC to get anything greater than 25 psi, and when I finally did, I got a big spike and a subsequent dropoff in boost, load, and airflow. Obviously, something is wrong here. Good thing I had my big water injection system activated as a safety precaution.
When I pressure tested it, a hardly noticeable waft of air behind the compressor cover became an audible woosh as I turned the regulator past 25psi. Now, I have to determine I am going to be able to address this issue without pulling the darn turbo off the car (I have a big T4 hotside).
G = rpm
AE = boost
AT = 2-byte load
AW = airflow
Observe how boost pressure drops almost 10 psi from 6000 to 7000 rpm. I had to turn the GM 3-port solenoid to 100% WGDC to get anything greater than 25 psi, and when I finally did, I got a big spike and a subsequent dropoff in boost, load, and airflow. Obviously, something is wrong here. Good thing I had my big water injection system activated as a safety precaution.
When I pressure tested it, a hardly noticeable waft of air behind the compressor cover became an audible woosh as I turned the regulator past 25psi. Now, I have to determine I am going to be able to address this issue without pulling the darn turbo off the car (I have a big T4 hotside).
Nov 29, 2009, 06:59 AM
#15
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I always put a thin coat of grey RTV on the seal between the backplate and comp. cover on any install if there isn't an o-ring, though. Otherwise you're almost guaranteed a leak there. I'm still shocked that every turbo supplier doesn't supply directions for doing so, as this seems to occur over and over on various forums.