Need help oil leak from block/head
Jan 28, 2010, 07:19 AM
#31
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yes i got the car in dec. went on a car cruise and beat on it pretty good., and just the regular boosting here and there
Jan 28, 2010, 08:32 AM
#32
The reason I asked about beating on it is because prolonged boosting at high levels can cause overheating and most people don't even realize they overheated. I overheated on some hillclimbs I participated in (2miles full throttle up hill at 31psi of boost) and then really warped my head when I left a radiator clamp off and didn't realize all my coolant went poof out the back side.
I still somehow didn't have any leakage from around the head, but I was pressurizing my water jacket pretty badly. I could tell because after one 3rd gear pull my coolant hoses would go rock solid and now that my head is fixed they are still squishy after boosting.
I still somehow didn't have any leakage from around the head, but I was pressurizing my water jacket pretty badly. I could tell because after one 3rd gear pull my coolant hoses would go rock solid and now that my head is fixed they are still squishy after boosting.
Last edited by fre; Jan 28, 2010 at 08:35 AM.
Jan 28, 2010, 11:12 AM
#33
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The reason I asked about beating on it is because prolonged boosting at high levels can cause overheating and most people don't even realize they overheated. I overheated on some hillclimbs I participated in (2miles full throttle up hill at 31psi of boost) and then really warped my head when I left a radiator clamp off and didn't realize all my coolant went poof out the back side.
I still somehow didn't have any leakage from around the head, but I was pressurizing my water jacket pretty badly. I could tell because after one 3rd gear pull my coolant hoses would go rock solid and now that my head is fixed they are still squishy after boosting.
I still somehow didn't have any leakage from around the head, but I was pressurizing my water jacket pretty badly. I could tell because after one 3rd gear pull my coolant hoses would go rock solid and now that my head is fixed they are still squishy after boosting.
Jan 28, 2010, 11:38 AM
#34
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well i do know buschur recommends a higher torque spec with arps on their stage 3 head than most use. not sure why they say that but might wanna look into it.an everyday mechanic would have just gone by what the arp says which is like 71 or something. and i think buschur says to go 95 or something close to that. id check it out.
Jan 28, 2010, 01:24 PM
#35
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well i do know buschur recommends a higher torque spec with arps on their stage 3 head than most use. not sure why they say that but might wanna look into it.an everyday mechanic would have just gone by what the arp says which is like 71 or something. and i think buschur says to go 95 or something close to that. id check it out.
ok thank you. my buddy who is the only import guy i know doesnt recomend that u retorque head studs cause they could snap but ill try it out
Jan 28, 2010, 07:29 PM
#37
Oh cold wouldn't matter if you dropped a bunch of coolant. It was cold when I did that and my car still overheated like crazy. As far as checking your head, you can do it yourself with a straght edge, no need to ship it off if it's still good to go. On torque, the arp instructions for our engine is 80ft-lb, but I put like 82 on them. You might be able to get away with 95, but you are seriously pushing the limits of regular head studs. I stretched the crap out of my last set just trying to reuse them once, putting 85ft-lbs on them. They all held except the last one, it got to like 80ft-lb then the torque dropped like 20ft-lb instantly and would never get above around 75 or so (stretching).
Last edited by fre; Jan 28, 2010 at 07:33 PM.
Jan 29, 2010, 09:45 AM
#39
ok to clear a few things up. I used brand new head studs. tourqued to buschurs spec of 95 ft/lbs. The block has never had an issue and actually was square decked. I just received the head from them and it was definitely surfaced. The only thing I can think of is the finish they put on it. I am going to try a lapping stone, from research I have done MLS seal best with a polished finish meaning you want to make it as smooth as possible. And yes My engine had issues, spun a rod bearing in 500 miles. Check you pcv valve, does you car have alot of blow by?
Jan 29, 2010, 08:50 PM
#40
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ok to clear a few things up. I used brand new head studs. tourqued to buschurs spec of 95 ft/lbs. The block has never had an issue and actually was square decked. I just received the head from them and it was definitely surfaced. The only thing I can think of is the finish they put on it. I am going to try a lapping stone, from research I have done MLS seal best with a polished finish meaning you want to make it as smooth as possible. And yes My engine had issues, spun a rod bearing in 500 miles. Check you pcv valve, does you car have alot of blow by?
no not really. catch can doesnt really have oil in it
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