Notices
Evo Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain Everything from engine management to the best clutch and flywheel.

Need help oil leak from block/head

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Nov 29, 2009, 07:39 PM
  #1  
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
snakebite's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Need help oil leak from block/head

new to the evo only had car for a week and i noticed that in front of the motor were the freeze out plugs are there is some wet oil. i cleaned it off and after a night boostin caome back and its wet again. looks like its coming from about the plug were the head meets the block. car has arp head bolt studs, busher stage 3 head/block only 22psi any info would help thanks.

Old Nov 30, 2009, 10:04 AM
  #2  
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
snakebite's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
bump anyone?
Old Nov 30, 2009, 10:08 AM
  #3  
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (12)
 
Pal215's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 2,918
Received 350 Likes on 264 Posts
Could it be that the previous owner did not yank the head when he installed the arp head studs?
Old Nov 30, 2009, 10:45 AM
  #4  
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
snakebite's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Pal215
Could it be that the previous owner did not yank the head when he installed the arp head studs?
i should check the turque on the bolts maybe there not tight. and buschur did all the work, but im not sure if head bolts were done at that time, pretty sure they were though
Old Nov 30, 2009, 04:28 PM
  #5  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (66)
 
Jeff_Jeske's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: On the track
Posts: 4,358
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
You'll have to pull the head to correct that.
Old Nov 30, 2009, 06:42 PM
  #6  
Newbie
 
climb_on's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Jeff_Jeske
You'll have to pull the head to correct that.
before people on here start telling you to pull the head off, clean it all up with some brake cleaner. turn the car on, stare and wait. you should hopefully start seeing where the oil is coming from as it warms up.

im not really even sure of orientation from this picture but it could possibly be just that plug that needs replacing. if its in fact an oil plug and not coolant.

also arp studs require retourquing after a few miles are put on the car. if that hasnt been done might be a good idea.

good luck
Old Nov 30, 2009, 07:11 PM
  #7  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (66)
 
Jeff_Jeske's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: On the track
Posts: 4,358
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
I agree with most of that.... except the part that a retorque will correct. Its like taking a **** after you've been drinking.... Once the seal has been broken its gonna keep coming out. The retorque is to prevent this from happening.

If it was coolant it would be steaming like a **** after a **** pounding session.
Old Nov 30, 2009, 07:48 PM
  #8  
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
snakebite's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
thanks guys its not coolant theres no smoke or steam. it seems to happen when under boost mostly i will have to check the torque on the bolts. they should be easy to get to right? havent really looked at it lol
Old Dec 6, 2009, 04:43 AM
  #9  
Newbie
iTrader: (4)
 
lelek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: chicago
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
you can try to retorque the studs and see what happens , but i think you your going to end up replacing hg
Old Dec 6, 2009, 06:31 AM
  #10  
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
snakebite's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by lelek
you can try to retorque the studs and see what happens , but i think you your going to end up replacing hg
yea i know ill change it regardless
Old Jan 23, 2010, 09:48 AM
  #11  
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
snakebite's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
a friend told me that no point in trying to re-torque head cause u needa take the cams out too anyway. is this true?
Old Jan 23, 2010, 10:01 AM
  #12  
Evolving Member
iTrader: (4)
 
awd2gen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Frederick, MD
Posts: 466
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
You dont need to take cams out to retorque. but like has been said, retorqueing wont fix your issue. good luck man
Old Jan 23, 2010, 10:38 AM
  #13  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (10)
 
EvolutinIX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Rio Rancho NM
Posts: 659
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Jeff_Jeske
I agree with most of that.... except the part that a retorque will correct. Its like taking a **** after you've been drinking.... Once the seal has been broken its gonna keep coming out. The retorque is to prevent this from happening.

If it was coolant it would be steaming like a **** after a **** pounding session.
Ha ha funny and true.
Old Jan 23, 2010, 03:18 PM
  #14  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (7)
 
20gmr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: hershey pa/williamsport
Posts: 874
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I have a BR stage 3 head and have the exact same issue as you but on the other side of the block(tranny side). I personally tq'd the head with brand new arp headstuds and a brand new oem mitsu head gasket. The block and head surface were both clean. Mine only did it under boost as well
Old Jan 23, 2010, 04:06 PM
  #15  
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
snakebite's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by 20gmr
I have a BR stage 3 head and have the exact same issue as you but on the other side of the block(tranny side). I personally tq'd the head with brand new arp headstuds and a brand new oem mitsu head gasket. The block and head surface were both clean. Mine only did it under boost as well
it fixed the problem thought right?


Quick Reply: Need help oil leak from block/head



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 09:38 AM.