is it safe to use 10-50 race mobil 1?
Oct 30, 2003, 01:20 PM
#16
Originally posted by alleggerita
Concerns about wider spread synthethic oils are to my knowledge unwarranted. There is an issue with deposits on the wide spread viscosity dino oils.
With regard to going to a heavier oil, synthetic or not, unless you really need it you are probably better off with the lightest oil that adequately lubricates your engine as heavier oil will give you less horsepower.
Concerns about wider spread synthethic oils are to my knowledge unwarranted. There is an issue with deposits on the wide spread viscosity dino oils.
With regard to going to a heavier oil, synthetic or not, unless you really need it you are probably better off with the lightest oil that adequately lubricates your engine as heavier oil will give you less horsepower.
Oct 30, 2003, 04:55 PM
#18
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Multi-vicosity oils are a must for street use since there are variances in the weather. But, if you want THE BEST protection and performance on the track, a race oil is the best. And yes that means you need to change your oil every time you go to the track since race oil is not recommanded for street use and cold temp. These oils are for drivers who spend hours at the track at high speed.
If you like both street and some track use, use 10W-40 redline or other synthectic.
RACE OILS
Red Line has a complete line of race oils strictly for use in racing applications. They differ from the Motor Oils in that they contain no detergents and consequently have a slightly better ability to reduce friction, but they are not suitable for long-term street use which sees some low-temperature operation. Red Line Motor Oils still provide lower friction than other commercial lubricants. Race Oils are available as 5WT (0W), 10WT (0W10), 20WT (5W20), 30WT (10W30), 40WT (15W40), 50WT (15W50), 60WT (20W60), 70WT (25W70).
Red Line 15W50 & 20W50: The ultimate high-temperature protection in Red Line engine oils recommended for street use. Good for engines that regularly run very high oil temperatures. Best for engines that run large clearances such as air-cooled engines or large-displacement, all-out racing engines that see occasional street use. Provides 25% more viscosity in bearings than petroleum 20W-50s. Not recommended for use in cold climates where temperatures are at or below 10°F or -12°C. Not recommended for street use in production engines that see sustained oil temperatures below 225°F. Those engines should use Red Line 10W-30 or 10W-40.
If you like both street and some track use, use 10W-40 redline or other synthectic.
RACE OILS
Red Line has a complete line of race oils strictly for use in racing applications. They differ from the Motor Oils in that they contain no detergents and consequently have a slightly better ability to reduce friction, but they are not suitable for long-term street use which sees some low-temperature operation. Red Line Motor Oils still provide lower friction than other commercial lubricants. Race Oils are available as 5WT (0W), 10WT (0W10), 20WT (5W20), 30WT (10W30), 40WT (15W40), 50WT (15W50), 60WT (20W60), 70WT (25W70).
Red Line 15W50 & 20W50: The ultimate high-temperature protection in Red Line engine oils recommended for street use. Good for engines that regularly run very high oil temperatures. Best for engines that run large clearances such as air-cooled engines or large-displacement, all-out racing engines that see occasional street use. Provides 25% more viscosity in bearings than petroleum 20W-50s. Not recommended for use in cold climates where temperatures are at or below 10°F or -12°C. Not recommended for street use in production engines that see sustained oil temperatures below 225°F. Those engines should use Red Line 10W-30 or 10W-40.
Oct 31, 2003, 06:00 AM
#19
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Originally posted by silver bullet
The lifters have some small passages and need 10w-30w or 5w-30w follow the owner’s manual.
The lifters have some small passages and need 10w-30w or 5w-30w follow the owner’s manual.
These synthetics are multiviscosity and will have no problem going through the passages in the lifters.
I still stand by that if you use your Evo as a daily driver and don't take it to the track then 10W30 is more than adequate for you.
Now it your winter temps begin to get below -15F you should switch over to 5W30 for adjusted cold start protection.
Last edited by mayhem; Oct 31, 2003 at 06:05 AM.
Nov 17, 2003, 02:06 AM
#21
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I've been using Castrol full synthetic 5W-50 in my engine for 100,000 KMs now. Don't know if this is good or bad though. No problems yet. The turbo has been apart and inspected from when I was running lean for some time and melted part of the turbo housing. The bearings were still perfect so I guess the oil was doing it's job. I also use this oil during winter.
Nov 17, 2003, 05:54 AM
#22
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I tried out the 15w-50 Mobil 1 (red top) on my most recent oil change. It starts up fine at cold temps (25F). There is no lifter rattling or other noises that would make me suspect that it is not lubricating correctly upon cold starts. This oil has the same 'cold pour' temp rating that the 10w30.
And after about 1000 miles of driving with this oil, it doesn't seem to be breaking down any differently than the 10w30 I was using before.
SC~
And after about 1000 miles of driving with this oil, it doesn't seem to be breaking down any differently than the 10w30 I was using before.
SC~
Nov 17, 2003, 06:25 AM
#23
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With my former car (Japanesse spec Lancer GSR 1.8 / 85000km / Turbo + IC / tunned to 14psi boost) mostly i used the Castrol RS 10W-60 (street use) that showed a good behaivor during S.O.S reports (wear trends). During engine disassembly i noticed everything was really fine as well as all turbo parts. I think i´ll keep using this oil, at least, i didn not feel any power drop when comparing with the low visc rate 10W-30.
Nov 17, 2003, 10:39 AM
#24
Just run 0/40 mobil 1. Period. All what we do is race, so I know from exprience that it is very safe!
We run 0/40 @ way higher target temps than what you will see. 0/40 offered the best wear as well!. This oil lost no power to the 0/30 mobil 1 oil we tested. I would recommend Mobil 1 over any other synthetic.
It just simply makes the most power.
We compared it against royal purple in 97, & there was no need to go with RP.
Besides, you can get Mobil 1 at most auto parts stores.
We run 0/40 @ way higher target temps than what you will see. 0/40 offered the best wear as well!. This oil lost no power to the 0/30 mobil 1 oil we tested. I would recommend Mobil 1 over any other synthetic.
It just simply makes the most power.
We compared it against royal purple in 97, & there was no need to go with RP.
Besides, you can get Mobil 1 at most auto parts stores.
Nov 17, 2003, 01:02 PM
#25
Originally posted by WOT
Just run 0/40 mobil 1. Period. All what we do is race, so I know from exprience that it is very safe!
We run 0/40 @ way higher target temps than what you will see. 0/40 offered the best wear as well!. This oil lost no power to the 0/30 mobil 1 oil we tested. I would recommend Mobil 1 over any other synthetic.
It just simply makes the most power.
We compared it against royal purple in 97, & there was no need to go with RP.
Besides, you can get Mobil 1 at most auto parts stores.
Just run 0/40 mobil 1. Period. All what we do is race, so I know from exprience that it is very safe!
We run 0/40 @ way higher target temps than what you will see. 0/40 offered the best wear as well!. This oil lost no power to the 0/30 mobil 1 oil we tested. I would recommend Mobil 1 over any other synthetic.
It just simply makes the most power.
We compared it against royal purple in 97, & there was no need to go with RP.
Besides, you can get Mobil 1 at most auto parts stores.
Nov 17, 2003, 01:45 PM
#27
Originally posted by Zeus
Are you saying you have documented evidence that Mobli 1 will resist thermal break down better than Redline/Amsoil in the USDM Evo?
Are you saying you have documented evidence that Mobli 1 will resist thermal break down better than Redline/Amsoil in the USDM Evo?
The evidence that I do have is seeing our engines come back all in 1 piece, besides the 5 manufacturing championships in 7 years to show for it as well.
As long as you change your oil regularly, you'll be okay. Mobil 1 synthetic just offers the best power & wear in our situation, if your turning 17k or 10,300 (IRL limit).
Nov 17, 2003, 02:46 PM
#29
Originally posted by WOT
No, I never made that statement. I was unlclear about our testing environment. That has been the CART & IRL series. The original post asked about what weight oil is best & if it is safe to run.....I think it was 10 / 50 mobil 1.
The evidence that I do have is seeing our engines come back all in 1 piece, besides the 5 manufacturing championships in 7 years to show for it as well.
As long as you change your oil regularly, you'll be okay. Mobil 1 synthetic just offers the best power & wear in our situation, if your turning 17k or 10,300 (IRL limit).
No, I never made that statement. I was unlclear about our testing environment. That has been the CART & IRL series. The original post asked about what weight oil is best & if it is safe to run.....I think it was 10 / 50 mobil 1.
The evidence that I do have is seeing our engines come back all in 1 piece, besides the 5 manufacturing championships in 7 years to show for it as well.
As long as you change your oil regularly, you'll be okay. Mobil 1 synthetic just offers the best power & wear in our situation, if your turning 17k or 10,300 (IRL limit).
Nov 17, 2003, 02:56 PM
#30
No problem. Actually we have had several engines get debris stuck in the rads & have seen 140c with no problems! Pretty amazing stuff that mobil 1! The beauty of it is that you can pick it up almost anywhere. If your seeing 140 c, you need a better oil cooler!