OK... I had the battery disconnected overnight and replaced it this morning. After turning the car over, the idle was extremely high with the brake and battery lights on. The idle re-learn procedure was applied and the brake and battery lights were gone, however the three ACD lights were lit on. The funny thing is, the option MR voltage gauge is showing zero voltage.

I guess there are 3 possibilities:
1. Battery is dying
2. Alternator is dying
3. ACD pump is dying (which I highly doubt... but being hopeful)

Has anyone had the same issues before? Anyone know how to check the alternator with a voltage meter? Anyone know why the voltage meter is showing 0???

Thanks in advance.

 

a quick way would be to check the connection on the battery itself, if you're not getting at least 14 volts then the alternator isn't charging the battery, with the car running and nothing on like radio, lights, etc if have anything below 14 at idle I would check the alternator

 

Thanks for the advice.

I checked the voltage of battery at DCV 200 when the car was off and it was showing 10 volts. I tried to crank with the remaining juice but failed... battery drained out as well showing 0 volts. Next, I boosted the car with my X and it's idling ok. Funny thing... the ACD lights are gone now (even more confused), however the brake and battery lights are flickering. Battery is now showing 7.5 on the meter. I am guessing it's the alternator.

Update:
I decided to double check once more. I did not know which lead is from the alternator that connects to the positive terminal, but I decided to check the voltage through trial and error. The lead was found when the voltage increases per RPM which is a good indication that the alternator was good. After looking closely at the lead terminal, there is a 100 amp fuse on a black box, which was shorted. Problem was solved with a ghetto make-shift 100 amp fuse from Vatozone. Problem solved.

 

Glad you were able to find and fix the problem

 

good to know its fixed.

 

if you are regering to the 100amp fuse thats in the black box on the positive battery terminal then you really want to get that replaced with an oem part and not ghetto rig it.

back when i was racing a lot i shorted that fuse out and i just temporarily bypassed the fuse with a straight solder for one run and by the end of the run the solder had melted and my ACD light were on and the battery light was flickering.

i had to call around to like 3 different mitsu stealerships to get a new one overnighted.